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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 14:00 Post subject: Electrical gremlin help...interior lights, hazards, locks |
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Electrical gremlin help please folks...L400 Royal Diesel.
Here goes: sometimes my central locking, door lights, interior lights, hazards, indicators and headlights stop working, all of them together.
Last night they all stopped, this morning they were fine again and I hadn't touched them to fix. They just worked again on their own.
I thought I had narrowed it down to the indicator stalk as wiggling it would cause the symptoms and it had shown signs of being dodgy by not auto cancelling indicators anyway so i took it apart this morning and cleaned all the gunk off the insides. Plugged it back together and no dice. I then started her up to check something else and they all started working again. Bonus.
Ten seconds later and all the above went off again after I pressed the hazard switch to check that...the hazard switch made a semi buzzing angry wasp type noise as I pressed it before they all switched off.
Any ideas about a common link between any of the above? All fuses are fine..earths I can find seem okay but kind of at a loss.
No clue if it's connected or not but the charge voltage showing from the alternator is iffy..sometimes it rises up to the 14v but now mostly hovers around 11.5v annoyingly. I've tightened the belts as it had squealed on start up previously. No change. It's possible some lanoguard/acf50 anti corrosion spray entered the alternator but not sure that would do any harm tbh.
All suggestions welcome folks:)?? _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 14:00 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16299 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 18:24 Post subject: |
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Take a look at the fuses and relays list in this post:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50650
As you will note they are on separate fuses and fuse boxes, so I'm inclined to think that there is an intermittent short on the switching unit.
HTH _________________
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Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 19:39 Post subject: |
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Thank you Lewis. Sorry for the stupid question but what do you mean by the switching unit? _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16299 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 19:41 Post subject: |
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The bit the stalk is in! _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 20:04 Post subject: |
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okay😀 I’ve had it apart to clean it out and even with it disconnected the problem still happens when I press the hazard switch...a small buzzing angry wasp sound somewhere in the dash and then power fades until a few hours later... _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 20:21 Post subject: |
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Low volts will stop the central locking working. Especially the auto locking (where fitted) on the sliding door
Some types of indicator units, also will not flash indicators.
Dunno about the other probs. Tho they may be caused by not having full voltage from Alternator and battery.
Many relays may not function when voltage is low.
You must have the alternator checked, and repaired if required. IF your battery is old, have a current/volt drop test carried out.
I would advise, that running your car with low voltages may damage relays, by way of burning the contacts, where relays cannot make proper contact.
HTH
Mr D |
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 20:31 Post subject: |
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Thanks Deker much appreciated! I’ll delve more deeply in to the alternator also. Just waiting for obstruction spanners to arrive so i can get the damn thing out😀 _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 20:43 Post subject: |
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Peg leg wrote: |
Thanks Deker much appreciated! Just waiting for obstruction spanners to arrive so I can get the damn thing out😀 |
obstruction spanners
FIRST - Be sure to pull the Alternator fuse, or disconnect battery.
Bottom alternator bolt is 10 mm - 17 mm tool on the nut. needs a deep set ring spanner, or socket of the right length.
If you have not removed an alternator from a 2.8 before, ask for advice first. I've done a few, know the problems.
Mr D |
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 20:55 Post subject: |
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Read a post that said obstruction spanners were advised to reach that bottom 17mm bolt? I took one off my old Delica that was broken to pieces but don't really remember the process tbh so any advice, like fuses and battery disconnect appreciated.
Figured it was something like remove airbox and ducting, tensioner, possible coolant hose and that bottom bolt then proceed to curse and tetris it up and out?? _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 21:13 Post subject: |
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Peg leg wrote: |
that bottom 17mm bolt?
Figured it was something like remove airbox and ducting, tensioner, possible coolant hose and that bottom bolt then proceed to curse and tetris it up and out?? |
10 mm bolt, 17 mm tool on the NUT at the back.
Undo the nut, then put it back on the thread a few turns, helps to prevent damage to the bolt thread.
The other bits = you've got it
Tip = Remove the tensioner completely. On assembly clean and ease the the long adjuster bolt thread.
Mr D |
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 21:29 Post subject: |
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Sorry yes, 17mm nut not bolt 😀. Sucks needing to take the coolant hose off but hey needs must i guess! Thanks for the advice _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16299 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 11:00 Post subject: |
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Obstruction Spanners - shaped like a letter 'D' to get round obstructing things, that stop a straight spanner being used :-
_________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 15:13 Post subject: |
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They just arrived. However I don't think I need to use them as I tested the alternator output directly at the alternator rather than the battery terminals and the alternator showed 14.x volts whilst battery terminals showed 11.x volts. when I wiggled the main battery fuse links the engine rpms changed and the battery voltage shot 13.9v. spent an hour of so stripping the main fuse terminal box and cleaning up the corroded connections and on first test the battery voltage seems to now pretty much match the alternator output at 13.9/14v and my hazards work again and all internal lights too.
Once the dash is back together I will go for a little test run to the shops and see how it turns out. follow up later. _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 19:18 Post subject: |
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Update for anyone else having similar issues...
All appears well with those problems. Power is back to lights, flashers, internal lights and central locking. Alternator output at the battery is stable at just under 14v as is the internal battery monitor.
Mucho gracias for the input, help and links here chaps. I hope this helps someone in the future.
Now somewhere along my pulling apart of the dash I have done something to the water temperature gauge as it rose to temp fine on my test drive but is now still there in the middle of the dial with then ignition off😀 _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16299 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 19:30 Post subject: |
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That's unusual. Though normal for the Fuel indicator to stay at wherever it got up to, rather than drop to zero, every time you turn the ignition off. _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 23:22 Post subject: |
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This is one unusual Deli😀 _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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Peg leg
Joined: 24 Apr 2012 Posts: 118 Location: Hampshire,UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2021 9:57 Post subject: |
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Clock was/ is a loose connection in the clock unit itself so is mostly working again...sometimes needs a little tap to wake up. Temp gauge is working okay again now too. Happy days. _________________ Heating Engineer renewables specialist and low temperature heating systems |
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