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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 20:47 Post subject: 6x9s GGRRRRMMMNNnnppphhhhsssplllxx!!!! |
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Knew I should've just fitted a band expander to the original radio!!!!!!
So, whilst waiting for the world to go back to work so I can swap the wiring harness adapter for my new head unit, decided to fit the Sony 6938 MkIIIs I bought a couple of days ago for £15 (40w/160w - should do the job - bargain!! ).
Followed the post between Numptys numnuts and Taz regarding fitting. Pulled everything off that I could, undid several screws that didn't need undoing, couldn't work out how to get the whole panel off, so just pulled all back far enough to get at existing speaker screws with angled screwdriver.....
Oh look!! -
1. -Speaker wire connector on existing speakers different to new ones, BUM!! - doncha just love standardisation
2. - New speaker deeper than existing, will only connect with magnet rammed up against bodyshell, BUM!!
3. - Plastic surround on new speakers not wide enough for heads of screws from existing speakers. New speakers screws too long for bracket, hit bodywork, BUM!! - Take plastic surround off, screws now fit but looks like plastic surround probably keeps cone attached, so needs to go back on....double sided sticky tape please!!
If you're thinking about swapping your 6x9s, keep the above in mind....
As it's the last day of my sons Christmas hols, we went down to play on the beach this afternoon, which was most enjoyable, so leaving problems to be resolved tomorrow a.m. ......p.m. ......Wednesday.....?...???
Solutions, (hopefully)
1. - Either squeeze existing connectors onto new speaker terminals (potentially dodgy) - or re-terminate wires with correct connectors.
2. - put 'spacers' between speaker surround and brackets to move magnets off bodywork. Problem - don't know how much space is needed and if this will impact on refixing covers. Thinking of nuts which should give me about 5mil.
3. - stick surround on and either buy new shorter screws with smaller heads or see if 'nut spacers' makes sufficient difference......
I will keep y'all posted of dynamic daves Deli progress and any advice re: space needed between back of speaker magnet and bodywork gratefully accepted....
Also, regarding statement between Taz & Numpty about magnets / metallic paintwork not mixing...what's all that about then ??
Cheers and apologies for me length
Dave. _________________ Deli finally sold - don't ask :-(.......Me signing off, thanks for being such a brilliant forum, keep 'em going - May be back if I can start earning decent dollar again - take care y'all ;-) |
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Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 20:47 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 18:42 Post subject: |
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okay, so now got one shoehorned in after a bit of huffin 'n' puffin...
Changed speaker wire terminators to match new speakers.
Used nuts as spacers to move magnet off bodywork, worked a treat..also stuck some sound deadening sheet to bodywork behind magnet.
Used combination of screws to secure speaker into bracket.....
Then came to replacing interior panels my, they are a tight fit and they are pushed hard against the edge of the speaker (quite usefully holding the edge on that I'd pulled off earlier )....
Never having changed 6x9s before and never having tried to shoehorn speakers that are too large into a small space, I think it'll be interesting to see what effect it has on the sound when I finally get the headunit connected and running...Can't help thinking I'm bound to end up with an irritating constant buzz from where the panels making contact with the speaker...we shall see...
Then started to change second one. This is the one on the rear offside....I never thought about it, but because there ain't no sliding door on that side, the internal panel goes all the way through to the drivers door... Anyway, got quite far but finally ran out of daylight at 1700 and had to call it a day. Will finish off tomorrow
Cheers,
Dave.
p.s. - just noticed speakers marked L & R....does it make any difference if you get 'em the wrong way around ?...i.e. what charcteristics will cause problems? <Ahem!> |
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Oldskool Beat Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 1582 Location: Corringham, Essex
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 23:12 Post subject: |
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mythatsabigun wrote: |
just noticed speakers marked L & R....does it make any difference if you get 'em the wrong way around ?...i.e. what charcteristics will cause problems? <Ahem!> |
Not seen this on speakers before :? Can't see how it will make any difference at all :? :? _________________ Beat
I will not be held responsible for any loss of limbs or any other damage to Deli' or persons.
I am in no way a mechanic or auto electrician.
Just trying to help ;)
L400 LWB with toys |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 1:43 Post subject: |
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It's definitely a Happy New Year now, Thanks 'Beat :D ..
Anyone want to throw any warnings my way now before I go and buy some speakers for the front doors ?....anything I should watch out for or be aware of ?....
and if my head unit is rated at 4x50w does that mean I can stick 4 speakers in rated around 50w (i.e., 40w okay but 50w would be better)...and is max power 160w on the speaker referring to a peak of 160w that can be handled by the speaker, although it's a, say for example, 40w speaker ?
It's gradually occurring to me that car stereo is a 'dark art' to me and no matter how much I read/hear/discuss it, it doesn't make any more sense to me .
Cheers,
Dave.
-off to purchase some door speakers |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 17:19 Post subject: |
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So, after my last post I rushed out and bought some Sony XSF 1731s.
Apparently these are 30w / 180w, so I've now got headunit 4x50w, 2 x 6x9s @40w/160w and 2 x 6.5" 3-ways@30w/180w...
Am I likely to blow the speakers if I crank up the volume on the headunit ?...or should they handle it because of the max power figure ?...
Managed to squeeze the second 6x9 in this a.m. and it only cost me a couple of grazed knuckles and bruised finger bones extra :D ....
Hopefully wiring loom adapter and door speakers should be here tomorrow. Unfortunately I'm at work all day tomorrow and then Friday morning, so probably not going to be able to complete install until Friday p.m. ....
So, in the meantime, any comments about the combination, power-wise, the Sony XSF1731s or installation of 6.5" door speakers would be most gratefully received.
Cheers,
Dave.
p.s. - Already created 2 x mp3 CDs with a total of 23 albums on...(ooh-oooh, can't wait!! - better bl**dy work ) |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 0:23 Post subject: |
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okay, think I might have found the answer to this myself...possibly....
So here it is for any interested parties who are complete novices to this as like wot I am
http://www.carstereo.com/rayfes/power.cfm
I particularly like the bit that says.....
Quote: |
As for matching power ratings between speakers and amplifiers, it is not necessary. Most speakers can accept clean input power in huge amounts before destroying themselves. Any quality amp that can produce enough power for your loudness expectations should work fine. The only advantage a 200 watt amp holds over a 100 watt (of the same design) is the ability to play 3 dB louder.
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Dave..... |
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-Crewzin-
Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 455 Location: Newcastle
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 11:04 Post subject: |
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got two dents in my rear panels! just worked out it is because someone has shoe horned two massive 6X9's in there. be warned!
Gordon. _________________ 3rd Amigo of the Amigo Troop.
(not with poms poms) but will be in a feather bower and in a SmArT WiG |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 18:54 Post subject: |
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Funnily enough...that was how I ended up with the sound deadening sheet behind the magnets. I was talking about the effect of the magnets on the bodywork and he recommended sticking this stuff on the body panel. It reduces the magnetic effect considerably and is only about a mil or two thick. I tested it by using the screws that kept sticking to the magnet while I had it out, directly onto the magnet, then through the sheet. It seemed to have a significant effect and will hopefully protect the bodywork.....
Cheers,
Dave. |
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Oldskool Beat Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 1582 Location: Corringham, Essex
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:20 Post subject: |
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mythatsabigun wrote: |
If my head unit is rated at 4x50w does that mean I can stick 4 speakers in rated around 50w (i.e., 40w okay but 50w would be better)...and is max power 160w on the speaker referring to a peak of 160w that can be handled by the speaker, although it's a, say for example, 40w speaker ? |
Sounds like you've already sortted it alright
On amp outputs and speaker inputs it alway worth noting the RMS Watt ratings as this is the true rating.
Amps in head units are alright but a bit generous on the figures of there output ratings
Good luck with the instal _________________ Beat
I will not be held responsible for any loss of limbs or any other damage to Deli' or persons.
I am in no way a mechanic or auto electrician.
Just trying to help ;)
L400 LWB with toys |
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Mutley
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 142 Location: Harlow, Essex
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 13:44 Post subject: |
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So help out a Stereo-phobe newbie here then...I've fitted an Alpine MP3 headunit that has V-Amp [4x60W] output...does this mean I can get away with say 100W speakers..?? Cause I've been looking and some 150W speakers still only have a RMS of about 30-40W..?? Now i've shelled out a bit on the unit [cause I reckon its worth it... ], and do not want to go through the hassle of fittin' new speakers only to blow the bloody things straight away...[music tastes=Rammstein, Rancid, The Transplants, Green Day, Anti-Nowhere league, etc...]...HELP... :? _________________ One by one the penguins they slowly steal my sanity....
92 L300 Grey/Silver 2.5TD Auto |
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Oldskool Beat Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 1582 Location: Corringham, Essex
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 15:01 Post subject: |
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The chance of getting 4 x 60 Watt output from a headunit amp is slim, even tho' it says it on the tin even with a quality Alpine headunit :?
The chance of you blowing the speakers is very slim because, by the time your near the max volume of the headunit the sound quality would have gone and you'ld have turn it down anyway. Thats not saying it won't go loud
It also depends on the make of the speakers, some speaker are rated low but play a lot higher than rated at.
Basically....if the speaker are lower rated than the headunit output just be a bit Cautious when cranking it up and if it distorts turn it down
Reading back through my comments I am in no way saying that headunit amps are no good just the output rating are a little off mark _________________ Beat
I will not be held responsible for any loss of limbs or any other damage to Deli' or persons.
I am in no way a mechanic or auto electrician.
Just trying to help ;)
L400 LWB with toys |
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dom
Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 219 Location: Brighton
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 15:17 Post subject: |
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Also bear in mind how you set your graphic or EQ up if you have
one on the headunit. Boosting the bass loads can easily kill speakers
that are of similar rating to the amp purely by the size of the increased
bass transients.
If you want to use the EQ or graphic on your head unit my top tip is
cut don't boost. If you want more bass cut the treble and you have
more bass without boosting the level of bass the speakers have to
deal with.
If you have a graphic EQ then between 300-400Hz is the 'mud' zone.
Cutting here makes the sound more defined and less, err, muddy.
I'll leave it at that for now, but if anybody wants to know more about
speakers, amps, frequency response and EQ then just ask I can talk
for days about it
Dom _________________ ~-----------------------~
92 L300 Exceed 2.5TD
~-----------------------~ |
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Oldskool Beat Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 1582 Location: Corringham, Essex
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 15:24 Post subject: |
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dom wrote: |
If you want more bass cut the treble and you have
more bass without boosting the level of bass the speakers have to
deal with. |
Or get a nice big amp and sub
Yer, as dom said, its the bass that kills the speaker _________________ Beat
I will not be held responsible for any loss of limbs or any other damage to Deli' or persons.
I am in no way a mechanic or auto electrician.
Just trying to help ;)
L400 LWB with toys |
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dom
Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 219 Location: Brighton
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 16:01 Post subject: |
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Oldskool Beat wrote: |
Or get a nice big amp and sub |
Or you could always do that. I'd love to fit one of these beasts into
my Deli http://www.funktion-one.com/minibass.htm but it would be at the
sacrifice of the rear seats And would probably also rattle my baby
to bits!!
Dom _________________ ~-----------------------~
92 L300 Exceed 2.5TD
~-----------------------~ |
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Mutley
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 142 Location: Harlow, Essex
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 17:37 Post subject: |
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My head-unit has its own Sub control...so I'm lookin' into fittin' one[or two... ] of those too...but its mountin' 'em in such a way that they do not affect the carryin' abilities of the wagon...in other words NO bloody great boxes in the back...need something subtle... _________________ One by one the penguins they slowly steal my sanity....
92 L300 Grey/Silver 2.5TD Auto |
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umbelago
Joined: 17 Jul 2004 Posts: 42 Location: Leicestershire
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 18:51 Post subject: He HE |
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just had a new cd radio fitted, I'm no music buff, but sounds great, took old radio cd combi out re wired fitted 120 pounds. looks good sounds good. :D :D :D _________________ Can I do it later? To save time now. |
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Marcus Bloke
Joined: 26 Apr 2004 Posts: 470 Location: Beaconsfield, Bucks
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 18:55 Post subject: |
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Subtle and SUBS a phrase thats not often used together in ICE . _________________ NOW 100% BIO DIESEL,
Chunkey monkey
Worx monkey
Twice the fun !
Mantained & Modded By SVS 01202821222 |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 0:41 Post subject: |
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okay!!!...it's done.
Head unit in, fascia adapter in. All nice and secure. Use the existing (almost) triangular bracket that holds the original doubble din unit in to secure the new headunit. Don't bother with the headunit adapter that comes with the headunit. The triangular bracket appears to be ISO standard and has holes in the right places to allow screws to be used, both into the adapter and headunit directly, so it's all nice and secure :D
6x9s in the back don't vibrate against the bodywork too much until they're distorting too much anyway.
6.5" for the front door haven't turned up yet, but should be early next week. There's already a really nice sound coming out of the existing door speakers, so can't wait for the Sonys :D :D
MP3 !?!...what a brilliant idea. Got 23 albums on 2 CDs, saves with all that mucking about swapping CDs / tapes / whatever....
and I have to say, the Sony CDX3300 does seem good quality and VFM...very pleased :D :D :D
Problem now is, I cycle to work as it's only a short distance and its good for me, the environment and my wallet....however, now I've got the radio sorted....it's going to be...difficult...not to give into the temptation. especially with all this bad weather we've been having of late
Cheers,
Dave
...at work at 0700 in the a.m....by hook or by Delica |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 22:17 Post subject: |
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Right!!!...Job done :D
6.5" front door Sonys turned up today, fitted 'em in just over an hour all in. Sound great.
Getting to the front speakers is no great problem. Prize inner door cover off from bottom of panel. Pull off up either side until up to upper section. Disconnect door light with a bit of gentle persuasion. Crawl inbetween door and panel, undo 4 x screws holding speaker grill in. This then allows you to work through the panel, directly onto the speakers.
The existing speaker cable is short. I found that by the time I'd reterminated it and put the Sonys in, I had to drill new holes in the plastic mounting to screw the speakers onto, but with the speakers at a slight angle, so that the wires would reach the terminals. As the Sonys are slightly smaller than the original speakers, I'd have had to drill new holes anyway, so no great shakes.
Reinstall speaker grill and hammer cover back onto door. Switch on and you're away
Cheers,
Dave.
<1 bunny :D >
I now declare this thread closed and hope some of the information may have been useful to someone, somewhere.....might post piccie after installing new console later in week _________________ Deli finally sold - don't ask :-(.......Me signing off, thanks for being such a brilliant forum, keep 'em going - May be back if I can start earning decent dollar again - take care y'all ;-) |
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mythatsabigun
Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 922 Location: South...West...(very)
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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 22:27 Post subject: |
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...and here's the piccie of the new headunit and DIN adapter along with nice new shiny console that finally arrived today.....
Job done :D :D :D
A virtual fiver to the first person to identify the artist and track being played on the headunit at the time of the photo being taken.
Cheers,
Dave.
p.s. - Also note clock working :D Thanks Rusty (I think it was anyway )... |
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