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Water Pump bypass pipe install

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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5066
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has the system been flushed again since you've been running it around and getting it hot? Sludge and rust flakes can move around in the system, like an embolism in the blood stream, causing moving blockages, with changing symptoms. Drain it again into a clean container (washing -up bowl) and let it stand and settle. Then gently pour off the clean liquid from the top into another clean container for re-use, and see what is left in the bowl. The clicking from your starter motor may be the pinion bouncing off the starter ring, as it hasn't got the power to fully engage. White smoke as it starts is vaporised diesel (not burned). As it starts to run and pick up, the diesel is starting to burn partially (hence black and sooty), then as the heat of combustion warms the engine, the warm, atomised fuel burns more completely, and the smoke (of any colour) reduces or disappears. A video of †it being started, with sound and smoke would be helpful for diagnosis. In this 10C weather, I switch mine on, five seconds later I turn the starter, engine turns once and bursts into life. I suspect your knackered starter is robbing your heater plugs of power. Might save you more grief if you wait until you have a new starter installed.
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 23:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool Iíll have a go at that this week. Is the drain plug for the block near the back somewhere? am I right in thinking its about 6.5L coolant system and probably just over half that in the radiator? Will be good to get 90%% out and start again in the way you suggest. It is strange I ran with water for two weeks or so and it never went above one third really with a few good 20 mile drives. Now I've changed to coolant mix it should be better but having these issues. Your theory makes sense.... Not sure how much I trust this gauge though.

Starter Motor ordered and will install this weekend. Probably do that first as you suggest then drain. The click came after the engine had fired up. Just clicked away with my touching or doing anything. Then stopped. It was strange.

Yeh once itís started there is no smoke. same when driving which is good. Glad the different colours I've seen are just vapour and burnt diesel. †Iíll makes videos of my starts from now on. Much easier....

Cheers
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PinkPig
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Joined: 05 Aug 2004
Posts: 2586
Location: Southampton, UK

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2021 11:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option if you are draining is to reverse flush the heaters.
As Andy says if crud has moved then (and only if you can get the pipes off easily) is to stuff a hose pipe on them to to see if that gets anything out.
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 20:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are there two heater radiators? one either side underneath the bull bar where the side steps are? then obviously there's the main rad with the viscous fan pulling air through that, and then a thinner Rad in front of that, which Iím guessing is for the AC, with the electric fan in front of it?

The Rad on the underside to the right (as you look at the van head on) has a fan on top of that too, pointing right down at it. So many fans and radiators......

going to have to drop the coolant and flush everything I can as itís completely baffling me....
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 21:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one under the step is for the rear AC, the one in front of the engine water rad is for the front AC.
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 23:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Argh right thanks. So I could have a blockage in any of them potentially. I had a look before and they all seem to have Flexi hoses coming from the steel lines with clamps. Guessing I can just undo them and take the rads off (he says hopefully) and get a hose through them all on a low pressure?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5066
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2021 12:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

The heater matrixes are within the heater units, one behind/below the glove-box, the other is under the drivers side sill, half-way back. My front one (thankfully) puts out plenty of heat, the rear one just puts out ambient (cold) air, so must have a blockage somewhere. The rear pipes should be easy enough to unclip on the rear one- quite accessible. Scroll through Pink Pigs download manual here    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_VNtPLlw6UzQWs4RUJJRDh4bVk for diagramatic info. This is on my to-do list, but having an independent diesel heater reduces the urgency.
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2021 23:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Argh right so its not the radiators from the underside I need to be removing by the steps? I'm a little confused now. Cheers for that link. I've downloaded those manuals before and I'll go through them to see what I could be missing and how to get them off.

I thinking now when I first bought it I flushed it and what I saw come out looked quite brown. that's kind of what I'd expect to see with a van thats been sat outside barely used for months, being rusty coloured etc. Just hoping the previous owner didn't use OAT coolant as I know thats red. I'm using blue silicate coolant which I'm sure is right for these old engines. I use it on my 93' car. do you guys use the same? I just know that they can potentially congeal if they mix but I think he just used more of a water/antifreeze mix and it was rusty old water that came out. could be potential cause for blockages? also I've being researching a too high coolant mix over water is bad as it doesn't allow heat to leave it in the radiator as well as water? Could have put a too strong a mix in? seems unlikely to cause this much overheating so soon though.

My front one put out loads of heat I was really impressed. And now it's just cold always so I'm sure that could be a culprit. This weekend I'll know hopefully.
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PinkPig
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Location: Southampton, UK

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2021 23:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my old rad removal post orbit is any help
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42095&highlight=radiator
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2021 8:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers PP. but Iíve had my main radiator out more times than Iíd like to remember with first coolant system things I did. I meant the small heater radiators. Or am I getting confused in how to back flush. As far as I can see I they have flexible hoses going to the solid metal lines under the van. I was proposing to remove the radiator from under the van to be able to back flush it. Or atleast just unclip the flexible lines and get a hose in there.

Andyman. If the radiator matrix are in the heater units, and thatís what I need to back flush, what are the radiators under the van then which I was asking about the first time. Iím guessing now thatís not what I need to be back flushing? Me confused as you can tell ha †ShockedShockedShocked


I know with most cars itís different as you generally have two pipes coming from the firewall which I would attach a hose. Iím just trying to figure out how to backflush and where basically.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5066
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2021 10:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

On mine, the little rad under the driver's step is a hydraulic oil cooler, the one below the passenger's step with the fan, is the condenser  for the rear aircon unit, which is in the same casing as the rear heater, under the offside sill. If you found the water was rusty brown when you first drained it (was there a lot of rusty sediment?), you may well need to run around with fresh water and a cooling system flushing agent for a hundred miles or so, to break up the rusty crud and sludge which is probably causing your issues. You'll be amazed at what comes out when you drain it again. Then flush with a hosepipe as you've done before. To save on the cost of coolant (the blue or green silicate stuff IS correct), don't put any more back in until you've got both heaters working and a stable gauge needle. Then drain half the water out, and top up with coolant, hopefully for the last time before the next service!
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PinkPig
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Joined: 05 Aug 2004
Posts: 2586
Location: Southampton, UK

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2021 11:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I've done on other vehicles is is just remove the rubber heater hoses and stuffed a hosepipe on them, going in both directions to shift the crud. no need to remove the radiator units. Also anything you do loosen up will come out and not disappear around the engine galleries to block them.
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2021 17:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a plan to me. Was just thinking to give it a wobble and move anything that a low pressure hose canít move. But hopefully should do the job and yet not make my life harder/lose bits. Thanks again
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AWG81



Joined: 26 Jul 2017
Posts: 98
Location: Pulborough, West Sussex

PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 16:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to hijack this thread - I have just noticed a leak from the water pump bypass pipe as discussed here! My pipe looks corroded so I'm thinking I may have to replace the whole pipe as well as the o ring - do you have a part number for the pipe or any suggestions of where to get one? Is there more than one type of pipe? I tried Mitzy Bitz and they don't have any at the moment.

To replace the pipe do I need to remove the timing belts etc? I've only had the L300 a few weeks and not feeling too confident around the engine yet.

Thanks!
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 69
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 19:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got mine from Amayama.com so from Japan. Assumed all old ones off breakers would be in the same state as mine so went for new. Was pricey, took ages to come (Brexit,Covid,Japan combo) and had to pay about £12 on taxes onto of the pipe. got a few other bits I wanted too though at the same time to make it less painful. Wouldn't recommend that route if you can help it.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/md100984

Itís a replacement part number now though as thats discontinued. †(MD370162)

I hope you can find it nearer and cheaper than I could.
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AWG81



Joined: 26 Jul 2017
Posts: 98
Location: Pulborough, West Sussex

PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 7:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great, thank you. I'll give the part number to my local Mitsubishi dealer and see what they can come up with.
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