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L400 pump reference pictures


 
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YOZA



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Posts: 2446
Location: The centre of the universe

PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 17:49    Post subject: L400 pump reference pictures Reply with quote





















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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 17:49    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
Posts: 909
Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 18:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Believe it or not these 2.8 mechanical injector pumps are interchangeable between Pajeros, Shoguns, Delicas, Challengers and Canters (the small truck) as long as they're mechanical and one from a vehicle with automatic transmission will fit a manual vehicle too  Very Happy
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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
Posts: 909
Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 15:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just noticed from your pics you removed the pump with its lower rear mounting bracket in place meaning you removed the 2x 14mm headed bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block.

A lot of people find this the easier option rather than removing the 1 bolt that holds the bracket to the pump and leaving the bracket on the engine BUT this can sometimes be a huge problem  Surprised

As the bracket is held onto the pump by only bolt while attempting to undo the drive gear nut and removing the drive gear the bracket can very easily inadvertently be moved meaning when you go to refit the pump the 2 fixing bolts holes won't line up, I seen it loads of times, I crack off the 1x bolts then while undoing it find its flopping around as the bracket is not bolted to the block meaning who ever was reified it couldn't be bothered to re align the holes and just left the bolts out.

Taking a pump off by removing the 1 bolt through it into the bracket means this will never ever be a problem  Very Happy
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YOZA



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Posts: 2446
Location: The centre of the universe

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 18:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate those two 14mm bolts with a passion. Exclamation

I have tried taking the pump off by leaving these two bolts in the block along with the mounting bracket but I found the pump fouled against the bracket.

There is enough going on when sliding the pump out and sliding it back in with the chipped tooth aligned to T without adding a lift and separate manoeuvre to clear this bracket. Shocked

Whilst on the topic of gear removal- this is how I locked it into position for nut removal and torquing back up, I expected a left hand thread, but itís a standard thread.




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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
Posts: 909
Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 10:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always used to wizz it off with an electric impact/wheel nut gun then re torque to 65nm when finished, the gear itself pops off literally in one second with a screw driver and two hits with a hammer †Very Happy
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illegitimo



Joined: 20 Mar 2016
Posts: 11
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 15:39    Post subject: Removing the gear wheel Reply with quote

And you've done over a thousand of them, Mark.

I'm not so fortunate as I can't seem to get my wheel off. Not for love nor money. I'm getting a ten ton hydraulic puller delivered from Amazon, this Sunday, in the hopes that it will shift it. Have you ever had this? I was hoping to swap in a pump from another engine, while I sent this one off to diesel Bob for re-manufacturing, because I want to run the rig on hot veggie oil. But when we had mounted the alternative pump, it would not run, †only firing sporadically. So, in desperation I †thought I'd swap out the front oil seal instead and put it back in, but no luck, as I can't shift the drive wheel off the shaft! The worst part is, I had a guy in to help me because I've got a disability at the moment and it took him two days! So, what's that technique you use?
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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
Posts: 909
Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 14:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started with the screwdriver method after my first four or five pump seal changes as using a puller was pointless.

Loosen the nut until its flush with the end of the drive shaft.

Lay the pump down so the tapered location pin on the front flange is uppermost, hammer a medium to large size flat bladed screw driver in between the drive gear and the casing from the top (so you have a good lump of aluminium behind the casing other wise it will break) and once the screwdriver stays in place in the gap give the nut and driveshaft a serious tap and the gear will literally pop off.... † the whole removal process is 20 to 30 seconds.

having the nut flush with the driveshaft saves damaging the thread when you give it a tap.

Re torque to 65NM when re fitting.
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illegitimo



Joined: 20 Mar 2016
Posts: 11
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 15:58    Post subject: The Serious Tap Reply with quote

Thanks for the info, Mark. You know, I don't know if I'm brave enough. Regarding the tap, 'though. Is that a steering tie-rod knuckle sized tap, with a heavy ball peen hammer? Or a more judicious one, with a regular sized ball peen hammer? As it is, my dear wife thinks I should send it off to Diesel Bob, for 440 sobs, and get it looking like that beauty in YOZA's pictures. Only with genuine jubilee clips and some proper Danish CODAN fuel delivery hose. And painting the bracket white seems like a good idea. I'm going to do that too. Thanks again.
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illegitimo



Joined: 20 Mar 2016
Posts: 11
Location: Plymouth

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 13:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark3 wrote:
I started with the screwdriver... and once the screwdriver stays in place in the gap give the nut and driveshaft a serious tap ...



Hey, Mark, I bit the bullet and it took thirty seconds. My mechanic struggled for half a day and got nowhere. Done the seal took out the duff pump and I'm ready for mating process. I've painted the relevent tooth white. Can't thank you enough for your reply.
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