Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

Astroman · Joined: 29 Dec 2004 Posts: 11 Location: S.E.Cornwall

From reading other posts we may well have the dreaded failing pump seal - usual symptoms - starts like a dream, runs for a few minutes then cuts out, restarts after a bit of turning over then okay. Added complication is that it is intermittent, hasn't been as bad recently, temperature is low, <=0c.

My question is which pump are we talking about? The fuel lift pump (I take it there is one? and if so it's mechanical?) or the fuel injection pump? if it's the latter then I suppose a fuel injection specialist is the best bet otherwise any garage could probably do it or could it be bypassed and an electric pump fitted in its place?

Chris

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bobgell · Joined: 14 Mar 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Cardiff

Yes, I seem to be in exactly the same boat as you. A sinking one. Of course it is the worst scenario, as usual. It refers to the injector pump, which delivers very accurately timed shots of fuel to the injectors each in turn. No you can't substititute it with anything else, and yes it is best to get it serviced at an injection specialist rather than the back street grease monkey, unless the latter is well versed in injection technology, which is unlikely. It isn't beyond the realms of diy, but frankly for all the faffing about, you might as well have someone do it who does it all the time and in a fraction of the time probably too, but that depends on how much you value your own time.

Sorry about that. We can comiserate together.

Astroman · Joined: 29 Dec 2004 Posts: 11 Location: S.E.Cornwall

Thanks for your comiserations bobgell.

I did wonder about doing it myself - I saw a post from someone who did it himself 3.5 hrs + £3.50 for the seal! but he didn't go into details about how you get to it and what facilities you need.
I've got most tools but no ramp/hoist or any easy way of gettng underneath. Also, why if it only takes 3.5 hours does the going rate (from other posts) seem to be circa £350.00?
So unless anyone can give me an easy idiots guide which doesn't involve getting underneath I'll hit the phone and try and get some quotes - unless any members can suggest/recommend someone in the SE Cornwall / Plymouth area.

Chris

bobgell · Joined: 14 Mar 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Cardiff

I think there are many stories of how cheap and how expensive it can be, but I think it depends what you are getting. I am not sure how long it will take to get it off, but a couple of hours seems likely. Course you have to be very careful about making sure the gears are marked for refitting.

Certainly the one seal is almost pence, but I hope I am right in saying that a £350 job by a specialist would be to rebuild and test the whole unit, and not just to replace the one seal. The value depends on the hourly rate and £35 inc VAT an hour is only 10 hrs. In reality the rate is likely to be more than this, so will probably be more like a day's work, which unfortunately doesn't seem out of the way for a full strip and test, if that is what we get. Certainly if the unit is off, it may make sense to replace the rest of the seals etc or install a service kit and test the whole thing. On the other hand, I may feel inclined to just save the cash and do the one seal myself if I can spare the time!

You should be able to do it through the bonnet opening without going underneath anyway. A spring weekend job?

Cheers, Robin

okin · Joined: 12 Dec 2005 Posts: 161 Location: Peel,Isle of Man

Hi astroman,you can take the pump off yourself in 2-3 hours ish,and it can be done through the bonnet opening :D .
Its not that difficult but some bolts are awkward.
1st turn your engine over with a 22 mm socket on the end of the crank pulley till the notch on the pulley lines up with tdc on the timing case with cylinder 1 on compression,look through the oil filler and you can just see the cam with a torch,the intercooler needs to come off,then all the pipework and wiring (multi plugs and heater plug cable)needs to be removed/pushed out of the way,take the throttle cable,air con actuator and fuel pipes off,injector pipes need to come off too,the pump is bolted to a flange with 2 bolts,LEAVE THESE TIGHT,DO NOT UNDO as it will alter your timing.The flange itself is bolted through the timing case Evil or Very Mad

with four 12mm bolts,one of which is behind the aircon pump bracket but can be undone with a spanner.
At the bottom rear of the fuel pump you will find a bracket that has one 14mm bolt into the pump and two 14mm bolts into the block,this is between the pump and starter motor and awkward to get to :? ,I found it easier to take the two out of the block.
Once these are all undone the pump and flange will slide back far enough for you to fiddle it out of the top Smile

.
Whatever you do DON`T Crying or Very sad

undo the pump to flange bolts.
When you come to putting it all back together you will see on the pump flanges inside edge has 2 marks and a very small notch out of the back of one geartooth,line this notch up with the "T" mark and slot it all back in without turning the engine or the pump.If you do it this way your timing will not be altered.
Once all back together leave the return pipe off until you have hand bled the system,then before re-connecting the pipes to the injectors turn the engine on the key until the injector pipes are purged of air,doesn`t take long,this means your pump is now full of diesel with no airlocks and well lubricated,re-connect injector pipes and go for a start. :D
Good luck mate and keep us informed. Smile

8)
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chiefie · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 23:41 Post subject:

wow, nice post okin, maybe admin could see fit to put this in the FAQ section Wink

Done matey,now in tech faq, Marc
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bobgell · Joined: 14 Mar 2004 Posts: 88 Location: Cardiff

Agreed. Brilliant okin, thanks. :D :D

The_Ormston · Joined: 29 Apr 2005 Posts: 208 Location: Ipswich, Suffolk

That should be useful, now copied to my desktop so I can refer to it later, probably whilst nursing bruised knuckles Wink

Chris
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Astroman · Joined: 29 Dec 2004 Posts: 11 Location: S.E.Cornwall

Thanks for your detailed reply Okin, now all I have to do is pluck up the courage to apply those spanners.......gulp!

Chris

okin · Joined: 12 Dec 2005 Posts: 161 Location: Peel,Isle of Man

Thanks all for your comments :D :D :D mucho appreciate.
I learned the hard way by doin it meself.

Astroman,don`t be scared by it just be careful and methodical thats how I managed it.
One thing I forgot to put in that little lot though :?
You will find you have a lot more room and a useful tool tray if you take the battery out first Idea

Just a thought Astroman,and anyone else reading this,if you do tackle this job yourself once you have removed the pump the flange will have to come off to get to the front seal Exclamation

You should find on the body of the pump and on the flange in line with the outer mounting nut a SCRIBED LINE,if there isn`t one there PUT one there yourself as this position is timing related and fairly critical. Smile

_________________
IF IT AINT BROKE don't FIX IT
Cagiva V Raptor(Mad V Twin)
Honda Super Blackbird(warp factor touring)
L400 Delica Super Exceed 2800TD Manual(PE8W)
2005 Volvo XC70 2.4 D5 Geartronic AWD

downunderleigh · Joined: 04 Apr 2005 Posts: 56 Location: Western Australia

I'm thinking of doing my pump myself, what information can you supply about the seal part number and was it hard to locate, remembering that I am in Western Australia (but it might as well be the UK we have that many of your country folk down here you would swear you're in some UK city some times Laughing

)
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Regards Leigh

"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty"

okin · Joined: 12 Dec 2005 Posts: 161 Location: Peel,Isle of Man

Hi Leigh,hows it goin down there Question

I don`t know the part number for the seal myself as my pump seized Evil or Very Mad

so I put a 2nd hand one on.
Might be worth you following this thread though
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=393
A lot of numbers on there. Exclamation

:D
_________________
IF IT AINT BROKE don't FIX IT
Cagiva V Raptor(Mad V Twin)
Honda Super Blackbird(warp factor touring)
L400 Delica Super Exceed 2800TD Manual(PE8W)
2005 Volvo XC70 2.4 D5 Geartronic AWD

chiefie · Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 21:36 Post subject:

the seal should be readily available as it is a bosch pump, as used on loads of other vehicles.

can't supply a part number either, but if you get stuck i can find a number for a repairer in the uk that may send you a seal.

edited: could be either bosch or zexel pump, my mistake Embarassed

p.s.i now have an exploded diagram of the zexel pump Shocked

, if anyone requires a copy p.m. me and i will try to send it to you :?

hth
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cainey · Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 97 Location: newquay

Looks tempting, if it will save me £350, assuming i could find a diesel pump specialist in the area who won't charge a premium 'cos we are not near a major city?!

if anyone is trying this out soon i've put a few photos of the job on my wish list! Wink

being a bit of a novice i've got a couple of questions if you could clear them up:

1. how will i know that cyl 1 is on compression, i'm guessing it'll be all the way down?

2. how big are the pump to flange bolts?, don't want to undo them while i'm looking for the 4 12mm ones!

3. i found this sentence confusing...

1170cbx · Joined: 23 Nov 2004 Posts: 165 Location: burnham-on-sea

to fined out if no1 is on compression the piston will be all the way up and both valves will be closed this is top dead centre if the piston is all the way down as you ask this is bottom dead centre and the piston is just about to start on it's compression stroke (if both valves are closing) or on it's exhaust stroke (if the exhaust valve is open/ing.
to prime the systrem i would use the pump on top of the fuel filter until fuel was pumped all around the systerm then with a good battery crank the engine over until it starts (with fingers crossed)
not sure about the other Q's as i've not had to do this yet but will be having to sort the pump soon Crying or Very sad

veggie oil is swelling the seal at the moment and is keeping the problem at bay until the weather warms up abit.
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cainey · Joined: 22 Dec 2004 Posts: 97 Location: newquay

i didn't know the veg oil could help, how does that work and what sort of ratio would help?

also does anyone know where i can download the relevant forms for excise duty so i don't get the thing taken off me!

cheers

cainey

:D

Jackdaw · Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 587 Location: Malmesbury, Wilts

Hi cainey,
Have a look on the bio diesel section . There are some links to pocuk that may be of some interest to. Laughing

Dave

Morro · Joined: 13 Oct 2005 Posts: 8 Location: Swindon

Hi Guys, Have some info on the pump seal and overhaul kit:
I got mine from TT Automotive a couple of weeks ago when I did it.
The front seal part no is:9461615373753 and is called the drive shat seal.
The pump repair kit (seals etc) is:94616610423.
Total cost £16.33 inc vat. (Drive shaft seal = @ £1.50).
BTW didn't use the repair kit as when warm engine ran perfect with no leaks and decided that whole overhaul was not required.
The two seal sets are genuine Zexel parts from Japan.
Job done perfect.
HTH Dave.

skid solo · Joined: 29 Jun 2005 Posts: 15 Location: st.Neots, Cambs

Okin- fantastic post cheers..
Followed your instructions step by step, absolutely spot on... complete job 2 hrs 14 mins!!!...
Trouble was I completely forgot to change the seals....

shaka · Joined: 29 Apr 2005 Posts: 47 Location: TROWBRIDGE

Hi all,
I have this problem and need to order replacement seals. Now here comes the daft question - are the Bosch and Zexel injector pumps the same design or do I have to identify which one I have fitted,? and if so is this easy to spot?
Can anybody help this old fool?
Cheers
Steve.