Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

Hi there,

Is this the AT transmission rad? I was driving the other day, got back in it, no gears meshed and it was like driving in neutral. luckily was able to roll it into a position to park it up. I called Mitzy Bitz and they said its not! I'm quite sure it is but they said that rad is buried near the main radiator. I'm white sure it isn't and this is it. can anyone confirm.

That brings me to obvious next question off does anyone have one off a van they are breaking or know where I could get one? £200 + off Amayama so no thanks. and I've found another one for like £120 in Canada so also not ideal.

I'm assuming there is nothing else around that area which could be a transmission leak. the rad at the bottom is covered in fluid and when I checked the dip stick its empty.

Does anyone know if I had the engine running in neutral this would cause any issues with this, with no liquid in?

Thanks in advance

Matt

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Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

Ah looks like the pictures haven't worked. I am crap at this! I think I've asked this before but do I have to host them on a site then use that http link to show them. I did that on Flickr, anyone know why its not working and/or recommend a site that does. Thanks Smile

Lewis · Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2023 12:12 Post subject:

Flikr Does not store the images as jpg's, etc. but compresses them instead.

You need to create url's on them instead of using image links, i.e. use [url] xxxx [/url] instead of [img] xxxx [/img]

I have corrected the links you gave, which now shows the images in a separate window, when you click on them.
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andyman · Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith

Hi Matt, long time since we met. Is this the little square rad under the driver's floor/front step? Mine rusted out 10 years ago, and I reversed off my drive, leaving a red trail. Until I found something to replace it, I disconnected it from it's rubber pipe connections, and inserted atwo metre loop of 10mm microbore central heating copper pipe, held up under the front valance with cable ties. With my local garage quoting me £269 and six weeks for a replacement coming by slow boat from Japan, I rang round my local scrap yards with sizes, and one came back with a rad from a 3.1L Isuzu Trooper for £15. That was a straight-forward replacement for the copper tube, but didn't fit into the gap between the chassis leg and step, so hung below (by cable ties) and so was a bit vulnerable, but did the job for several years until a Delica arrived at the same scrap-yard with a good, intact rad. I still have the Isuzu rad, and you are welcome to it. In the meanwhile, the copper tube will keep you mobile, and at this time of year, as long as you don't thrash it, it should keep your ATF reasonably cool.
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Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

mouseflakes · Joined: 17 Jun 2012 Posts: 193 Location: Kendal

When I got my L300 there was no cooler there, just a rubber tube linking inlet pipe to outlet pipe, creating a loop. I spliced in a generic cooler off ebay and tucked it under the step but discovered at the same time that my van has the 'cooler in the bottom of the radiator' option too. So it's a case of belt and braces now. As Andy said, you can make up a temporary loop to fit in place of a leaking cooler until you find a suitable replacement.

I remodelled the frame that protects the cooler so it sits higher up and a bit more protected from damage.

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1992 L300 Super Exceed

Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

Hi all,

Good to hear from you all.

Lewis - thank you so much. For a guy who works with computers daily. I'm horrendous. For future reference what did I do wrong. Was it all correct other than to put URL not IMG as you said? if its that simple that good. thanks so much for sorting.

Andy and Mouseflakes - thanks for the suggestions dn the pictures. looks good mouse flakes. That seems like a good temp fix to get it going again. Andy yes if its going I probably would take that spare rad off you, thank yours much. that's super good of you. I will try a few breakers here and Facebook etc, and see if there is anything with the original one on. knowing it fits with some trickery and splicing. Hopefully well able to meet soon and I can drive with the temporary hose between the two pipes as suggested and be able to collect It Very Happy

Only thing i'm scared about now is I have had water in the coolant system it all summer, as it had a leak (again) and I was simply topping it up with water as it was an almost daily thing. Wasn't massive but I kept having to do it. Over time all I had was water in my system.

Given it was -5 degrees here last week. I decided to head up the van where it broke and drop some water and add some silicate concentrate. in order to get it in the block, I had the engine running for a while to open the thermo.

I'm not worried (after speaking to people not the US/Canada forum) that this could have knackered my AT gear box. It sounded all normal when I had it idling but I was for a while. apparently this could dry out the pump? I thought If it's in neutral this wouldn't harm it at all, as nothing is engaged? any thoughts on this?

I'd be gutted if I'd made it worse when I was trying to save it freezing

Fostlongstrider · Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2023 11:12 Post subject:

Wouldn’t recommend a silicate solution.
Isn’t that OAT which can block your radiator.
Andy will be along shortly to tell me if I’m right or wrong.
Any way if you have a leak like that a new rad is the answer.
_________________
Ian.

All the best from the East Riding of Yorkshire.
'93 L300 Super Exceed Corse Gray over Grace Silver.Auto.

Flying Brick Supporter.

Lewis · Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2023 11:52 Post subject:

Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

Thanks Fost. I'm quite sure blue silicate is the correct solution for the Deli. Most old engines run on this including my MX5 Smile

As far as my knowledge goes. Its if you mix the two (oat) then your in trouble as they solidify but I could be wrong. But Silicate is what's in there and has been running happy on it for a number of years now.

In terms of the transmission I hope I wouldn't have damaged it/and or the pump whilst running it in neutral trying to get the silcate in the system. Still need to get recovery and then fix it find to though!

Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

Also does anyone know the correct AT fluid to use and what does it take? 8.5L or so. might as well get the right stuff seeing as though I will be filling it!. I have used Halford AT fluid in the past to top it up? is that okay?

Lewis · Posted: Sat Dec 16, 2023 10:46 Post subject:

I've always used the Comma Super Coldmaster in my 2.8Td, with no heating issues at all.

Cheap and cheerful from the Bay:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292280362482

Comma don't list the Star Wagon, though they do list the L400 Space Gear, but not the 2.8TD engine, so you have to look in their Pajero/Montero sections.

If I remember right you have a 4D56 engine, so this list on Comma's website will be for your L300:- https://www.commaoil.com/products/results/91001967
All of which are available on the Bay.
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Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

Thanks lewis ill have a look.

Mancdelica · Joined: 17 Nov 2020 Posts: 89 Location: Manchester

So I had it recovered and the mechanic was able to do what you suggested so thanks and bypassed the rad. I have someone here who is supplying me with an Isuzu one which worked on his for years when his went.

It drives okay, but I've noticed it doesn't like engaging gears half as fast as it did. I was at a T junction yesterday and it was in drive, I pressed the gas and it revved in neutral before finally engaging. It's driving okay but the gears a little slow. Could this be that the system needs to prime a bit or could this be a sign of gear damage.

The AT temp light has now come on also, but after faintly flashing for a while which suggests its a bad connection on the sensor. Most of my sensors don't work on the dash and so I take with what comes up with a pinch of salt. It comes on when the engine is cold now from start so I'm assuming it isn't the actual temperature thats a problem. We filled it to between the cold markers but since checking again its quite a bit above the markers now. Not sure if this is an issue.