Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[Uncle Nick]

Hi all, I changed the injector pump seal, changed the fuel and oil filters plus the oil and coolant, three days ago. Everything seemed to be great, the car started and ran well on multiple tries and test runs. The dreaded cutting out after a few seconds seemed to be gone.
Then today I went out to drop it off for the MOT tomorrow and it wouldn’t start. There were a few initial coughs and then nothing, doesn’t seem to be trying.
Doing the injector pump seal was a little out of my comfort zone and I was so pleased it appeared to have gone well.
I’m gutted that it won’t start today.
Naturally it’s raining so I’m reluctant to try to find the issue at the moment.
Any tips on what I should check or try first?
Cheers.

[Google]

[Deker]

The flimsy "Reed valve" in the Primer Pump on the fuel filter can fail I had that problem.

Very difficult to "Re-shape" the valve, usual remedy = replace the filter header.

To test it - Try pumping the primer to get pressure into the injection pump, if you Can't get pressure, it is the header reed valve failure.

Mr D

[Uncle Nick]

Thanks for the reply Deker.
Could that be the cause even though I had it running since doing the seals?
When it wouldn’t start I checked the primer and it’s pretty solid.
I’m just not confident with diesels, fuel shouldn’t ignite without a spark, clearly the work of the devil!

[Deker]

Are the glow plugs working  

A sign that they are not working, is White smoke (Diesel vapour) from the exhaust.

You said about fuel should not burn without a spark - Here goes an answer -
Lightweight fuels, Petrol, flour, other flammable dust/s for example, will need a spark to ignite.

"Heavier" liquids like Diesel fuel, most oils, can be ignited mostly in an enclosed space by compression which generates heat,
when the fluid is sprayed in a manner to form fine droplets into the compression chamber (Tho it may be possible to ignite non sprayed fluid)

There is more to say about Diesel "Compression/Ignition" and Friction, this will suffice for now - - -
I can explain in greater detail, if you want. About the way that Diesel fuel burns - Or not (burns completely)

Mr D

[Uncle Nick]

Cheers again. I didn’t notice any smoke, white or otherwise but I’ll specifically look for it next time I try.
Probably won’t get an chance until the weekend though.
I’ll also crack the fuel pipes at the injectors just to make sure it’s getting that far.
I know diesels are compression ignition, I’ve just not had much to do with them before, so it’s still a bit black magic to me!  

[andyman]

Here's a second vote for checking that your heater plugs are working properly, although, if not, you should be getting smelly diesel smoke while cranking.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[Uncle Nick]

Thanks Andy.
I can’t check until the weekend but it started first touch after doing the injector pump seal. So if something’s happened, it’s happened after the test run while parked.
I’m wondering if it’s something daft like the fuel pipe has come off.
I’ll take the intercooler off and check all the pipes and wires and report back once I’ve had a look. 👍

[Deker]

Nick.
There's lots about fuel line air leaks on here, and testing to find the leaks.

You'll have to use the Search function, the post go back quite a few years - So good luck  

Mr D

[Uncle Nick]

Thanks again for all your help.
It seems to me like a fuel starvation issue, with fuel not getting to the injector pump.
So I pull the nearest fuel pipe off the filter assembly and my wife cranked the engine. No fuel came squirting out so I’m guessing the pump in the tank isn’t working.
Previously, I primed it after reattaching the injector pump, went for a test run, and it ran the best it’s ever done.
I’m also wondering if the immobiliser is acting up.

[Deker]

Fuel is NOT pumped from the tank, it is pulled up by the injector pump.

Therefore, any leaks in the tubes/pipes from tank to I.P. will let air IN.

Mr D

[Uncle Nick]

Well that’s that theory gone!
Was looking earlier, there’s definitely been diesel leaking on to the ground from somewhere.
Maybe a pipe leaked the diesel on to the ground and is now sucking air in?

[Uncle Nick]

A quick update, I’ve checked fuel is coming out of all four injector pipes and can get the car to fire up. It runs on tickover extremely rough for 5-10 seconds then stalls. Crank it again and the same thing happens.
I did find damaged wiring to the blocks mounted on to the intercooler. Are they something to do with emissions? The insulation had gone brittle (with the engine heat I’m guessing) and were shorting out, possibly making the intercooler fan mounting live and causing the cable to it to completely melt. I’m surprised a fuse didn’t blow but they seem okay. They’ve now been repaired and the intercooler fan disconnected.
I’m at a loss what to try next (other than flog it as spares or repair, that a mate suggested).

[andyman]

Check that the fuel stop solenoid and wire onto it on the injector pump are properly connected, not loose or corroded. A poor connection here with engine vibration could give interrupted fuel supply. The solenoid valve is activated to open when you turn the ignition key to 'ON', and has to stay open until you switch it off. It's what stops a diesel engine.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[Uncle Nick]

Thanks Andy.
That’s the one shown in the pic isn’t it?
I’ve been trying to check it but can’t hear any clicks from inside, so I put a 12v supply to it and there was repeated clicking. Should it be permanently energised when the ignition is on?

[Uncle Nick]

The green one?

[andyman]

Yes, that's it, and it should click once as you switch on the ignition, and stay constantly energised (not clicking on and off) while ignition is on. If you suspect a loom wiring fault, but the solenoid is okay,  you can temporarily or permanently, put a direct live to it, with a switch so you can turn your engine off without having to lift the bonnet.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[Uncle Nick]

Thanks for confirming that Andy, I’ll check it stays energised with a good direct feed from the battery.
If not, I guess a new solenoid is in order.

[Uncle Nick]

I checked the stop solenoid: there’s a 12v to it with the ignition on and I can hear and feel it click with a direct feed to it.
So that’s another thing ruled out, unless the plunger moves but doesn’t do what it’s meant to do inside the pump.
With the direct feed, there’s also a loud relay click from the fuel filter area?

They’re another wire going to the pump. It has 10v with ignition on, so down a couple of volts.
So far I haven’t found out what it does and naturally it’s difficult to see, never mind get to.
It’s on the bracket that supports the plug that includes the blue wire going to the stop solenoid.

https://i.postimg.cc/FFLymzx4/IMG-4287.jpg

(oversize image(s) regrettably converted to url link(s), as per:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38592
Max usable pixel width is 800. Admin)

[Uncle Nick]

A quick update as I had another look at it today.
I took out the fuel shut off solenoid, the one with the green cap. On the bench it correctly made a clicking noise with a 12v supply but I couldn’t see anything actually moving.
So I’ll order a new one and see if that fixes it. 🤞

[Uncle Nick]

The plot thickens!

I’ve been reading http://biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Mitsubishi_Delica_fuel_system

It states the green capped solenoid is an ‘ overflow restriction valve’ to control pump internal fuel pressure, and therefore injection advance timing, to advance injection timing when cold.  Is this the diesel engine equivalent of a choke?
It would explain why there’s nothing to be seen moving when energised as it’s all internal, although it has in internal filter that could be blocked and causing problems.

So I’ll remove the black capped solenoid tomorrow, which the article states is the stop solenoid, and see how it looks.