Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[Merloch91]

Hello one and all, got a problem with the rear heater not working.

So I acquired the Deli around a month ago and been tackling the many many issues, and have now swapped my leaky coolant pipes to the rear and flushed/fit the right coolant.

Anywho, trying to get it to blow and there is simply nothing, the dash “rear” button doesn’t illuminate, nor does the rear button (both ac buttons do despite it being decommissioned). So I have no heating in the rear what do ever.

I’ve checked fuses, all okay and I’ve started to strip the dash in the hopes it’s the button but cannot get it out for the life of me with those bizarre cable clips  

So as well as asking how the blow do I remove that, is there any known cause for the rear buttons not illuminating or function (ie am I wasting my time getting the heater control out)?

Thanks in advance.

Ben

[Google]

[Deker]

Ben, I assume you have the manual heater control system (not the electronic display type)

Those cable clips are a bit of a nuisance, BUT, find the right tool and they can be released reasonably easileeee  

Been there, to change the olde fashioned bulb to LED to illuminate the slider control display.

I only fitted one LED, now know I should have fitted more than one  

Mr D

[Lewis]

[Merloch91]

[Merloch91]

Well I broke the cover  

All seemed connected, but for arguments sake I’ve ordered a switch from mitsybits just in case (was ordering anyway and thought for £9 might as well eliminate that)

Neither the button on the dash nor the rear button illuminates, nor is there any function to the back. I want it running before winter really so trying to tick as many jobs off my list as I can  

So the aircon buttons work front and back despite being decommissioned, therefore the look “should” be okay?

I also snapped the little plastic screw bleeding the system with the new pipes to the rear so need to source an alternative that’ll fit too (Doh!).

Cars throwing me some real curve balls!

[Deker]

Ben.
If it helps, the "Bleeding" screw may be a 10mm diameter by 1mm pitch thread.

Your profile shows engineering, should be easy for you to "knock up" a bolt/screw.

I'm equipped to do that - in most materials.

Mr D

[Merloch91]

I was actually going to do just that, except instead of make one just ask for one from the stash 😂 we work in stainless or plastic so as long as we have the right pitch etc should be good. I did also see somewhere it’s m12x15 1.5 thread, so I planned on checking before asking 😂

[Merloch91]

Little update to close off the thread, I got a secondhand motor and switch from mitzybits, wasp per out the switch first while I was tinkering with other bits, solved the issue completely  

So I have a spare motor for when that inevitably fails  

For the bleed screw, I measured up and it was m12 with a 1.5 pitch, managed to source a brass plug which comes with a seal built into the hex head- so that’s now working nicely too!

I’ve also swapped the radio for touch screen, ran a cable for a reverse camera (taking the headlining off was fun!) and now I’m just splicing it into the reverse lights. Anyone know what size cable the reverse lights are? The cables really brittle and I need to extend it slightly as everytime I strip it I get strands coming with the insulation so want to extend it slightly so it isn’t pulling (or I just solder in some 1.5mm house cable and hope for the best   )

[Lewis]

Wiring diagrams, etc can be downloaded from my BOX folder:- https://app.box.com/s/qloifo9gwywcystkyvfjyn3vmz3krz5p

HTH
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[Merloch91]

You’re an absolute gem as always! Thanks Lewis!