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Cutting out after starting

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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2022 14:32    Post subject: Cutting out after starting Reply with quote

Hi all, sorry but another question as I’m getting to know my L400 2.8TD
It starts really well but then after about 20-30 seconds cuts out. Will restart with a bit of cranking and exhaust smoke. This goes on for about 8-10 goes until nicely warmed up, then runs perfectly, ticking over etc perfectly.
It seems almost like fuel starvation at first.
Any pointers on what to check?
Cheers.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2022 14:32    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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CSMonkey



Joined: 05 Feb 2014
Posts: 377
Location: Exmouth

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2022 16:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds like the crank seal, I'm sure some of the more experienced will add some more info.
Had it on mine, would cut out just after starting, then struggle to fire up again but fine when warm.

Rich
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2022 17:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, thanks for the reply. How expensive/big job was yours, it sounds like an engine out type of job. 😢
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2022 21:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nick, sorry this sounds like classic front injector pump seal leak. The engine starts and runs on fuel that was left in the pump last time you switched off, BUT, the fuel in the pipe starts to retreat down the pipe through the filter as air is drawn in through the leaky front seal as soon as you switch off.
By the time you try to start it again the next day, you still have a pump charged with fuel, but nothing in the filter, so once you've run off the fuel in the pump, you have to crank the fuel up through the filter to recharge the pump and re-start the engine. Once re-started, it will continue to run all day.
The seal itself is apparently not difficult to change, however, getting the pump timing right afterwards can be very tricky.
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 10:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Andy, that certainly sounds likely, unfortunately! ☹️
Is there a way to confirm that?
Neither suggestion sounds easy or cheap. Wonder if that’s why the previous owner decided to sell?
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 22:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again Andy, just a thought, while I follow your logic completely, mine needs cranking and restarting 6-10 times before it will continue running properly. I’d have thought once the line was pressured enough for it to start again, that would be it?

Hi again Rich, does a blown crank seal need the engine out to repair and is there a way to confirm the diagnosis?

Thanks to both of you for your help. 👍
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 0:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely the symptoms of pump seal.

I think Rich meant the "Pump seal"

A blown Crank seal will allow oil to leak, sometimes dramatically.

Tip = On the fuel filter you should see a large button, this is for priming/filling the filter after a filter change.
Before your first start of the day, try pumping the filter, if pressure is low, you should feel the pressure increase whilst pumping.
If pressure is good, the primer button will not go all the way down with moderate hand force pushing down on the button.

Mr D
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 10:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nick, a diesel that has (effectively) run out of fuel, always spluttters and stutters, and may start and stop until all air bubbles are eliminated, unless you thoroughly prime it first, as Deker says. If you actually run it out of fuel (which you haven't), you would also have to bleed all the injector lines, by cracking open all the union nuts at the injectors while cranking with a fully primed filter.
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 11:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning to you both, thanks for the help.
This diesel malarkey is all new to me!
I’ve located what I think is the fuel filter, hidden behind the batteries. I can’t find a lever to check the pressure but it certainly seems to follow the pump seal symptoms you suggest.
I haven’t even got it to MOT ready state and I’ve broken down!
Wonder if that’s the real reason the previous owner decided to sell?
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CSMonkey



Joined: 05 Feb 2014
Posts: 377
Location: Exmouth

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 18:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

AAH Deker is correct! I meant the fuel pump seal but for some reason in my brain I thought crank seal......

Mark3 did mine a couple of years ago, but he has stopped his travelling mechanic business now. For someone skilled with experience I think it can be done in under two hours.
YOZA had posted images on his thread in the L400 Technical FAQ thread but they are no longer visible probably due to Photobucket changes. You may be able to direct message him for copies. http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=41709

This thread has more info on doing the pump seal, but no pictures
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7539

Hope that helps,

Rich
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 19:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Rich.
I found one of those threads when looking what was involved. Well beyond my comfort zone!

On the plus side, there’s a diesel pump and injector specialist near me who gets very good reviews, so when/ if it passes a MOT I’ll have a word with them.

I also phoned Mitsiland to get a ball park figure. They said to do it properly the pump is taken off and sent away to be checked/ fixed then refitted. So a couple of weeks and £1000!!!

At that sort of price I might have to have a go myself! 😢
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 17:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark3(Mark Broad) occasionally announces that he is doing a trip or tour to a certain part of the country, and invites owners to contact him if there's a repair/service he can do do while he is in your neck of the woods. But as he's an Essex lad, he doesn't get to Geordieland that often. But you could always pm him here or contact him on the MDOCUK FB site; you might just get lucky! Bearing in mind all the 2.8L Shoguns and Pajeros around, I'd be surprised if there's not a decent diesel mechanic with experience out in the rural parts - for some reason Hexham rings a bell.
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 8:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Andy. At the moment I’m discovering fresh horrors to be made up and welded.
You’ve a lot more parts available for the L300 than L400, suppose they’ve been around longer but there’s a distinct lack of sills advertised for mine. It looks like everything will need to be fabricated.
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16295
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 10:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Mark3(Mark Broad) occasionally announces that he is doing a trip or tour to a certain part of the country.....


Mark has retired and no longer does mobile mechanical work or pumps, etc.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 11:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen Mark offer to do work away from home fairly recently, but as and when he chooses. He has learned the meaning of work-life balance!
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 11:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys.
I’ll get the welding and mot first and then try him but Essex is a bit far.
I’m assuming that once it’s started and running properly it’s okay to use and won’t cause any damage?
Is there no way to just put a non-return valve in the line as a temporary fix?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 13:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess it's a possibility. If the seal leaks a lot, it allows diesel to leak into the sump via the chain housing on the front of the engine. Apart from diluting your engine oil, if your sump gets too full, the mixture can get forced past the pistons into the combustion chambers, causing runaway - the engine just feeds itself, you can't turn the engine off, and the only way to stop it is to stop off the air intake! It's a scary thing to do with the engine revving its head off!
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andyman



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 13:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS Have you tried googling and phoning round a few Mitsubishi Diesel specialists in your area?
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 13:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that does sound like fun! 🙄😂
Back in the day I had an ex-police XR4i. I was with a mate showing him the full throttle acceleration when it stuck on, in the dark as well. If I switched off the ignition the headlights went off as well!
That was fun too!i
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Uncle Nick



Joined: 05 Feb 2022
Posts: 106
Location: Durham

PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 15:55    Post subject: The plot thickens! Reply with quote

Hi again guys, went out today and the Delica took a bit more to start, still first time but after spinning over a bit more. The same as if a cold start without waiting for the glow plugs to heat up. No smoke at all. Then ran absolutely faultlessly, didn’t cut out once.
Can a leaky pump seal be intermittent, or possibly the glow plugs at fault? I’m thinking the equivalent of a faulty auto choke on a petrol engine?
Welding hopefully finished early next week and see what the mot man says! 🤞
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