Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[LeonB]

Hi Guys,
I am on my second Delica, this time a 2005 Active Field with the 3Litre 6G72 24V petrol engine.
I have leaking plug seals in the valve covers and am in the process of replacing them, along with the cover seals. Unfortunately, I have encountered a problem which some of you may know the answer to, or indeed have faced themselves. Facing the front of the engine, there is an EGR pipe which overhangs the right-hand valve cover, with about 10mm of vertical clearance, and bolts to the intake plenum chamber. This EGR pipe is stainless steel with a corrugated bend, has a small amount of flex and is bolted down to the front edge of the exhaust manifold. This fixing is inaccessible to me.

My question is, does anyone know if it is possible to lift/remove this right-hand valve cover with this EGR pipe in place?
Once I have solved this I can carry on with cam belt renewal because I am up to 60k.

[Google]

[RobH]

Hi. I have similar but slightly earlier model.

Can I ask why the EGR pipe is inaccessible? I changed my plugs a few weeks ago and had to disconnect the EGR pipe you've mentioned, that was the only easy part of the job as I remember it.

Good luck with the cam belt change. I did this about two years ago through necessity, I really didn't want to do it but had no option. Had it done first by a garage, they messed around with it for two weeks (said it would be two days) and it broke down within 10 miles of them returning it to me, incorrect tension in the belt, timing went out, massively overheating and no power. There was some other odd stuff going on with the timing chopper plate as well, had to get a new one.

Cheers
H

[LeonB]

Hi Rob H,

Disconnection of the EGR pipe from the plenum was the easy bit. Because I needed to remove the valve/rocker covers to replace the leaking plug seals, along with the cover seals, I needed to move the EGR pipe completely out of the way.
The base of the EGR pipe is secured to the top front of the exhaust manifold with a 27mm nut, access to which was awkward because the manifold shield/heat protector covered it. The shield itself is held in place to the manifold with three 8mm bolts which, although should only be tightened to about 14Nm, I found very difficult to access and undo, particularly the one at the back adjacent the chassis.
However, I persisted with lots of penetrating oil over several days and was eventually able to remove these and access and undo the EGR nut with a 27mm crowfoot spanner.

At the moment, job almost done, once the weather allows me to finish off.
Plug seals and rocker cover seals renewed, new plugs, new 8mm Magnecor leads, plenum back on with new metal gaskets, cam belt changed along with all new idlers and hydraulic tensioner, all the front back in.
In the process of re-connecting all the wiring, then wiper mechanism can go back in, battery tray, battery and airbox, re-fill coolant and all should be a go, hopefully.

Len B

[LeonB]

Hi,

One thing I neglected to mention earlier was that I replaced the water pump as a matter of course, but it needed to be anyway as the metal gaskets were leaking.

To note, however, is that I sourced a GMB pump from Milner but found that it came with the wrong size O ring to connect to either the small water pipe at the back of the pump in the valley or the large water outlet pipe that connects to the fitting that sits on top of the thermostat housing.

I had to source these separately from a Mitsi main dealer. Part numbers MD030763 for the small O ring and MD030764 for the larger one.

Leon B

[RobH]

Ah, my bad. I didn't realize the pipe needed to be completely out of the way to get the rocker cover off, I just needed to bend mine a little to get the plenum off. I had intentions of replacing the plug seals but was fed up enough by the time I'd got the plenum off. I did notice that the Magnecor plug boot seals must have reduced some of the oil ingress I'd seen when I last changed the plugs.

That's a grim sounding list of jobs you've completed, must be a big relief to get it all out of the way and start the service meter at zero again...