Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[Green Grouch]

Before I was familiar with it, I asked the questions on the torque for them.
I'm now recalling, and after looking today that it does definitely tighten up to a larger diameter on the shaft. You are not gonna overtighten it, to the extent of pulling the thread out further. Not a chance with correct bushes fitted.

My first thought was that the bushes had a certain preload, but after having it apart, I can see that they don't and the torque on the bolt is probably just the standard for the thread size.

I checked the milner, and seemed a bit loose, but not massively, but used lock nuts.

The original nuts on the original were well tight and standard nuts, not lock nuts.

Even if milner are using an updated design, you can't tighten what's not there to tighten.
Hope that makes sense.
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[Google]

[RobH]

I’ve still got the old wishbone and will examine it when I get a few minutes to spare, hoping this will help me better understand what I’m talking about.
I was more thinking that torquing the nuts would push the bushes in rather than pull the stud out, same effect of exposing more thread.
Cheers

[Green Grouch]

It's hard to get your head round without pictures. The bushes go in from the outsides, and push up flush to the control arm.
There is an order of assembly as the shaft has to go in 1st from 1 way only.

The diameters on the shaft that sit in the bushes are,, I believe, slightly longer than the plastic inside the bushes, so it can't really go wrong, unless a component is the wrong length, which the original is not.

When I get the chance, and actually change mine back to 1st refurbished original I'll get some measurements from the milners.
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[Green Grouch]

A Bit More info below.

I think I forgot to mention that the large aluminium washer on the milners control arm had a larger diameter and also fouled in the inside of the saddle.

the picture is the original unit, hence the cheapy washer being there. The original washer is currently being used on the milners which is fitted.

The picture shows the raised diameter which stops the bushes being overtightened. You would need the strength of garth to stretch that thread.




_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[RobH]

Thanks for the info. It’s becoming a little clearer. I think the only way I’m going to get to the bottom of this is by dismantling it myself. I’ve lost all confidence in the mechanic who fitted it.

I can appreciate that the OEM wishbone won’t allow the bushes to be compressed, whether the milners item will allow compression is another question. The threads are definitely more exposed than those on the milners website product images. Unfortunately I didn’t check before handing the part over to my mechanic and I’m not confident of getting a straight answer from him. Obviously I wasn’t expecting it to cause more problems than it’s resolved.

[Green Grouch]

Apologies for my trickle of info.
Been a hectic year, in and out of work.
Making aircraft parts at present is not what it used to be. 😔
Need the truck to commute, and pretty much only one day off a week at present, which is filled with preparing for the next week!

I've more or less written off swapping the arm back within the warranty period, as it would cost me more in lost work, just doing that and it has passed an mot and got me out of a tight spot.

It will happen one day!

Things are on the up again. I believe.  🤞
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[RobH]

Hope things continue to improve for your trade. Unfortunately my business is automotive ignition wholesale and retail - it’s only heading in one direction with the advent of electric vehicles 🙄
One last questions (for now); how deep does the 17mm socket need to be for adjusting/releasing the torsion bars? I can get wholesale prices on laser and sealey so it’s easier for me to spend a few ££ than to modify/weld standard sockets. I was also thinking a box wrench might do the job, not sure how much torque is needed though, ie whether a long wrench/breaker is needed.
Cheers
Rob

[Green Grouch]

Someone will know. I just used a ratchet spanner, then a long reach socket when it fitted.

Halfords make a nice through handle ratchet now. Bit pricey though.
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[Lewis]

[RobH]

It's going back in for assessment this week. In the meantime I've changed the brake pads today and took the opportunity to take a couple of pics. The first shows how far the stud/thread sticks out, I hadn't realized that the saddle didn't completely cover this, thought it had to come off to get a proper look.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v75927wnl2rbyon/IMG_0391-600x800.JPG?dl=0

Second image shows the area alongside the suspension damper, the top wishbone has clearly been sliding against this and still contacts it when the suspension is compressed, this can't be right?!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wf9wn7p0i0198pi/InkedIMG_0393_LI-800x900.jpg?dl=0

The brakes seem to be okay so at least that's one thing ruled out as a possible cause of noise. The creak/squeak is definitely from the new wishbone, not sure whether it's overtightened bushes or the stud rubbing on the saddle yet.
Cheers
Rob

[Green Grouch]

The rubbing is def not right. Mine is close, but no wear marks that I can see.

That suggests what Lewis said about re indexing them properly.

It's as if the torsion bar has been wound up massively if the vehicle on the ground in that picture?

It's either that, or indexed wrong on the splines, which isn't a massive job to sort.


Get them to check the washer clearance in the  saddle also.
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[RobH]

okay. It wasn't on the ground in the pic, just wanted to show that there is no clearance at all at certain points in the suspension travel range. I was mid way through jacking it up at that point. I jacked under the cross member so the wheel would be hanging lower the higher it went on the jack. The grease was put there to see if it was still rubbing.

Apart from that and the stud/thread clearance I couldn't find anything massively wrong. The drive shaft boots have come adrift (milners, again) but this is due to bad fitting rather than faulty parts. It's going on a shaker plate on Thursday so hopefully that will answer a few questions.
Cheers

[RobH]

[Green Grouch]

I fitted the arm as was.

Had the awful noises after, worse than the one I replaced.
( the one I replaced, had a good 1mm of movement)

As I remember, I think I described it a school boy error, me, not noticing the contact from the stud, and also the washer contact on the saddle.

Before this, I asked the question on here, but tweaked the nut to try and take up any free play, but nothing on the scale of pulling the stud out anymore.


I think what needs to be done is to get the milner arm off and measure against the old.

I will put up my findings when I eventually do it.

The fact the washer does foul the saddle on its own, does not give me much faith.

Don't blame your mechanic yet!
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[Green Grouch]

There may be many issues with this, including what I've had, and also think about how "some" mechanics are nowadays. Some fit supplied parts and that's it. If it dose not work, it's not their problem.?

I make, machine, and design tooling and put together various parts, but still make mistakes after doing it for years. 🙁

I still have to fix my mistakes, or at least prove what's wrong.

I would hope your mechanic would notice certain things, and, if its not working, look into it.?

I may be well off, so don't rip their head off yet.

As I've mentioned before, the cold weather and rain, has made my bushes silent again, but can't wait to fit the recon arm.
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!

[RobH]

Thanks for that. I feel a little more confident now. I think I’ll ask him to put the old one back on, it was far better before the job was started, I was just looking to fix a relatively minor issue before it got any worse. I’ll see what milners have to say about it.

I understand what you’re saying about not being able to pull more thread out. It could only happen by distorting the main body of the wishbone I think. I’m edging towards a knackered damper unit being the main issue.
Cheers
Rob

[andyman]

Have to say, not impressed by Milners recently. Front arb bushes they sent were too thick for the length of bolts they sent, nuts weren't nylok or other locking nut, so unwound and fell off! Clonk clonk! In desperation/ time lost due to my favoured supplier not having the rear shocks in stock that they said they had at  the time of ordering (and still showed as in stock for 2 days after they had notified me, and I had asked why they were still showing stock), I ordered a pair of cheapo Chinese gas shocks off Milners, despite the  cconfusing information " To fit L300 Delica P25/P35 4x4 2.5 diesel THIS PRODUCT DOES NOT FIT L300 4x4 - to fit Toyota Landcruiser.)!
They arrived quick sharp, and fitted, with a bit of re-using my old washers as theirs seemed the wrong size. I checked the delivery note - no mention of Delica L300 -  "For Toyota"! They seem to work okay, I went green-laning last weekend!
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[RobH]

Perhaps I should have a bit more faith in my mechanic. He's confident that the enormous washer is catching on the torsion bar saddle so will swap for the washer on the old unit. Won't know if the thread was catching until he disconnects the torsion bar again.

I'm swinging back towards the Milner's part being incorrect in the first place. Will update again later...

[RobH]

The news is that the large washer was fouling the inside of the torsion bar saddle. He's swapped with the washer from the OE unit. Also trimmed back the projected thread. I've not picked it up yet but he thinks it's much better. He reckons that it all appears to fit together okay prior to tightening everything up, only on tightening do the components interfere with each other.

I still think the problem was and still is a faulty/shot suspension unit. Anyone have a 'how to' for replacing these please? I'm guessing they have to be done as a pair?? I'd rather waste a day of my own time doing it than pay someone else to mess it up and have no transport for a month again...

Thanks
RobH

[Green Grouch]

The shocks are a fairly simple job, but can be a bit fiddly if not done before.

I'm sure a post will materialise soon.

I still think your indexing is a bit out though to get that contact?
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!