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Alternator output. 15.5v too high?

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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 21:46    Post subject: Alternator output. 15.5v too high? Reply with quote

So, while I wait for new batteries to arrive I've checked the old ones. One won't hold charge for more than a few hours. The other seems okay on 13v, but definitely not new performance.
What I did also check was the alternator output as the batteries are only six years old and wondered if it had been overcharging and cooked the battery.
Difficult to tell. Just running the one good battery the measurement at the battery is 15.5volts
I've done some research and found that some Japanese alternators do run up to 15v+ when presented with a flat battery, but at the same time I'm wondering if the 15.5v is a duff regulator, and that had fried the battery.

New lockdown means I can't take it in for testing.
Going to charge the good battery on a charger then check again to see if the alt output is lower

Any tips on further testing I can do?
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andyman



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 0:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Must say, 15.5v sounds a bit high. Most authorities I have seen reckon on a maximum charging or alternator output rate of 14.4 - 14.8v for short periods when the battery has been severely depleted eg by significant cranking in cold weather, dropping within a few minutes to the 13s. A battery already damaged, with lowered charge capacity cannot accept such a high charge rate, and will be further damaged (fried/cooked) if it continues to be exposed to such rates, and indeed, that is what the voltage regulator is supposed to do, ie, reduce the alternator output as the battery gains charge. Think of it like the ball-cock in a cistern; as the water level rises, the flow from the valve reduces until an equilibrium is established. With a good battery, that equilibrium is maintained at around 12.8 volts. If a battery cannot accept the excess charge (energy) and store it, it will be manifested as heat, boiling away the electrolyte, and buckling the plates.
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 11:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could have a faulty diode pack in the alternator which is not letting the voltage regulate.
Highest it should go with a low battery is 14.7 volts and it should reduce down to 12.6 volts as the battery charges.
It's possible the battery internal resistance is low and this would also allow a higher alternator voltage to occur.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2021 0:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

We'll I've found a local place to test and refurb a spare alternator I had in the shed and let me know the bench test outputs. I'll get it back next week.

Having read the workshop bible. I should be seeing a charge voltage of around 14.5v depending on the temperature but no more than 15.4v at -20C  and it is about +2C at the moment.

So either the regulator it shot, or, one more test to do it the sensor cable is broken so the alt doesn't have a reference voltage.
However, also fully charged one battery, and watched the voltage from cold (glow plugs etc) and it sat about 12v first glow, then around 13v  on the secondary glow cycles.
The straight up to 15.5 - 15.8v idling.

I'll test the sensor cable next, but think I'm going to be knuckle scraping in the freezing cold.
Not bad though - last time the current alternator was returned was 2005!
And my spare is a 90amp and came off the mystery machine...so must be brilliant!

Output table:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CQ5zpFFKkkZBTg5v8
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Deker



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2021 21:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fostlongstrider wrote:

It's possible the battery internal resistance is low and this would also allow a higher alternator voltage to occur.

Should that be battery internal resistance is high  Question

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 12:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

If battery resistance is high voltage will be reduced!!
Could try measuring the current flow but that requires either disconnecting the battery to put an ammeter in series or a special clamp on ammeter that reads DC.
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Deker



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 22:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fostlongstrider wrote:
1) If battery resistance is high voltage will be reduced!!

2) Could try measuring the current flow,
but that requires either disconnecting the battery to put an ammeter in series or a special clamp on ammeter that reads DC.


1) Correct: If Battery resistance is High, engine not running, will show low volts.
However, with engine running, Alternator will "See" Low volts - Therefore the alternator will try to "make up" the difference. And "pump out" higher voltage.

2) clamp on ammeter that reads DC: I have two, one Analogue, one Digital.

HTH

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's correct.
Shows what retirement and this lockdown does to the old grey matter.

Getting my V = IR mixed up.
Of course with engine running the alternator will try and compensate for low voltage using the reference voltage.
Could always connect a known good battery to the vehicle and check the voltage again.
If the voltage is still high there is something amiss with the alternator.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 19:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Thanks guys.
I've got my spare alternator back, bench tested and working fine, and a couple of new batteries so will go out and play in the cold this weekend.

Will check the sense wire first is showing battery voltage. Apparently common for people to take in alternators to fix, then find nothing wrong.
Without the sense it will run at full voltage (about 15.8v on the spare alternator) as it is trying to charge a battery it sees as completely flat 0v.

I've had a very dodgy cables and connectors in the loom that have degraded over the years and needing replacing.

If the sense is okay then I'll try the new batteries and measure again (although I fully charged the one good old battery out of the pair and ran it up alone and it still showed 15.5+ volts)
Then if it is definitely a bad alternator...the knuckles will get scraped!
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Deker



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 20:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian: Thanks for your reply on Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:43

Hopefully, our readers may glean and understand information from your posts
Wed Jan 06, 2021 - - - Thu Jan 14, 12:14

And my post Thu Jan 14, 2021 22:04

Unfortunately PP may not be equipped to carry out a current (Amps) reading from alternator to battery,
at his reading of 15.5+ volts.
To me, a current reading on the stated voltage, would help me to understanding what is occurring.

P.S. Your Grey matter is not as Grey/old as mine  Cool

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 13:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems the Sense wire is at 0v hence the alternator  pushing out 16v to try to charge what it thinks is a 0v battery.
Another broken loom issue, or duff inline fuse. Could've been like it for ages and I hadn't noticed related to a 12v feed cable I had to replace for the starter relay and glow plug relay. A fused cable which is handily carrying 12v straight from the battery that I can tap into.
So as well as the rust, I seem to be replacing the loom piecemeal as well.
Time for a cuppa to study some wiring diagrams, then give up and bodge something...
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andyman



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 16:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as you know that there is no likelihood of intermittent reconnection (ie can disconnect at one end), it may be simpler to just put in a whole new wire connecting where needed. Then tag it, so you know what it is next time you are in there!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 18:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

PinkPig wrote:
A fused cable which is handily carrying 12v straight from the battery that I can tap into.
I seem to be replacing the loom piecemeal as well.
Time for a cuppa to study some wiring diagrams, then give up and bodge something...

If you are tapping a wire to feed the Alternator -
Be sure that any 12v wire you tap into switches OFF with the IG. switch OFF.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 20:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems the original sense wiring is permanent live through a fuse.
See page 16-7 on this doc. The 'S' connection. Also the same on the main wiring diagram.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sx9rVWnaqqKRgwg6En4QnPfjP5GVqZ_k/view?usp=drivesdk
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1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 20:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at it closer the wire I replaced before is in the same loom and goes through the same connectors according to the diagrams. I just haven't been able to find the fault buried behind the engine somewhere.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 20:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suspect B86 in this harness diagram. Which will be buried in the mud, oil and goo...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/72PJcaLXYccp7qh2A
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/__PinkPig___/

A never ending camper/restoration project
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 18:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, just to finish this thread off (it's been very cold and very wet so haven't had chance to get anything done).

Cut the Sense cable to take a voltage off it and there was nothing with ignition off and occasionally 0.1v with the engine running and me wiggling the loom. Still can find a break so must be the conector plug. So then introduced battery voltage into the cable and instantly the ~15.8v charge voltage dropped to around ~13.8v or there abouts.

Then it started raining again!

So just need to go back and make the temporary fix permanent, fused, tied into the loom etc.
Maybe next weekend, not like its going anywhere!
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1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
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A never ending camper/restoration project
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andyman



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 20:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least you know where the problem is now. I'm slowly doing de-rusting, repairs and painting under the front end of mine while there's nothing else happening. Numb fingers from sub-zero temperatures limit the amount of time I spend under there before a hot cuppa and bad TV lure me away. But as you say, no rush.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 21:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its definitely the same bit of loom that I had problem with before and looking back that was a year ago so amazed the batteries survived that long. And I think that was probably disturbed during the engine change - that's the problem of 32 year old crusty electrics!

Also my turbo has an oil leak - joy, and very messy!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 12:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to hear you seem to have found the problem.
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