Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[YOZA]

This is what you see through the power steering hole when the pump is refitted.

Note my pink marks line up with the  T  arrow.



No cats were disturbed during the refitting process....
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[Google]

[YOZA]

Bit of a nightmare today, truck would not start after reassembly, double checked everything, but no joy.

Put the battery on charge and looked again, everything was back the way it came off.

I put the fully charged battery back on, and the motor just cranked over and over, no start.

At this point the cat looked at me and ran off.

I new that the pump and the injector pipes were full of air, but I thought they would clear after cranking, but they didn’t.

So I opened up each injector on the cylinder head end and cranked it over until fuel squirted from each one, then I retightened them and it started first time.

I asked my wife to look at the injector pipes to let me know if they were squirting as I was in the cab cranking, she says that asking her to perform this task put her safety at risk......I don’t think she realised I was going to crank the engine and got a shock.  

It runs good, tick over needs setting and I need to put my bash plates back on as I changed the oil/filter and three belts whilst I was at it.
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[andyman]

Well done, persistence wins again! Something I'm sadly lacking in at the mo, while it's so cold outside. The lure of the sofa is too great (mostly). However, today being above freezing, I did get a steering boot replaced, and turned the N/S lower wishbone pivot bolts approx 30degrees to stop the outer tyre shoulder wearing so much. All ball joints seemed good and tight.
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Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[mark3]

Just a note on fuel system bleeding....

Fit it all back together and then pump the fuel primer until it goes firm, thats it, thats all you need to do to prime and bleed air from the fuel system on a 2.8  

I used to fit everything but leave the fuel return hose off the injector pump and then prime the system until i see fuel, not bubbles, come out of the injector pump pipe but after the first 500 i didn't bother and just fitted it all back together and pumped until firm, the next 644 all fired up on the button just as it did before lol
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[mark3]

Oh, and i never did see the point of turning to TDC if your putting your own marks on so i always used to mark em up and pull em apart where they was, i never bothered with TDC  
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[YOZA]

Hello mark,

I set mine to TDC and aligned the mark to T just in case the pump had been put back in by myself or someone else 1 tooth out, either way.

If I used your short cut and the pump timing was already out , which is easily done, it would still be out when I refitted it.

I didn’t want to take the chance for the sake of 1/2 hours extra work, and I really hate this job I don’t want to do it again- ever.....

How you have done so many in the road, in bad weather, away from home, gives me panic attacks, hats off to you - you couldn’t pay me enough to do what you have done.

You should write to the producer of the TV documentary “Britain’s Worst Jobs’ if there is a prize you’ve won it.
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[mark3]

[YOZA]

[YOZA]

Two photos to show TDC using the notch on the horizontal hex profile of the cam and where the cam lobes should be when no1 piston is at TDC also note where the two dimples are positioned on the cam gear.

‘T’ setting on the fuel pump gear is shown through the power steering aperture, notched tooth corresponding to the first arrow ‘T’
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Enjoy.  
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[mark3]

Going by the pic of the cam lobes that engine is not at TDC, its a little bit advanced, probably only half an injector pump tooth but enough that 50% of the time it will be incorrect.

The first two cam lobes (inlet and exhaust for No 1 cylinder) should be a mirror image of each other and the top surfaces of each perfectly horizontal, these are not like that and if your having running problems this could well be the issue.
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[YOZA]

Thanks mark.

The first two cam lobes are exactly as you described, but you can’t see the second lobe as it is hidden behind the cap.

What has thrown you is my ill placed arrow pointing at lobe three.    
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[Deker]

I have to agree with Mark.
Except I see camshaft as retarded (for novices (do remember the camshaft rotates Anti clockwise))

Yoza. Look Caerphilly (as in Wales ) at the chain, there are four links to the left side.
Only three & half links to the right side  

The cam lobe/s should be at <> a tiny bit 45 degrees. Your pic shows the right cam lobe to be nearer to horizontal - Retarded position.
Pictures can be deceptive though. The same goes for your 12 o:clock position. Appears to be later than 12 o:clock.

Is the Flat with notch a reliable indicator   For cam TDC, or some other angle  

You say to Mark "What has thrown you is my ill placed arrow pointing at lobe three"
Thrown me too. If you are ill, I would suggest you let another person look at it.

I see indications of a worn camchain. Has it been replaced  
Look down from the right side (actually left side of engine) of the sprocket, is the tensioner plunger extended  

Mr D

[mark3]

[YOZA]

Ye of little faith....

My beasty runs like a Swiss watch and I put it back together as pictured in this post.

My timing chain has been replaced by the late and great V8Rick, he told me that the cam is at TDC when the cam sprocket dowel is bang on 12oclock, my dimple is inline with the dowel at bang on 12oclock.👍

okay I’ve exaggerated a bit with the Swiss watch, more like a Timex, but it is 26 years Old with 280k mile on the clock.

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[YOZA]

This cam timing pictured below was set by someone who knows what he is doing.
In the photo you can see that the dimple I took as being adjacent to the cam location dowel, is by in fact a couple of degrees to the anticlockwise.
And if you look at the first cam lobe it is as mark said flat to the horizontal.
Easier to see is the third cam lobe on the professional build shows the third lobe of the cam at exactly the same height as the cam cap, when you look at mine it’s it’s well higher as it is under Rotated as mark said.





So mine is out by a couple of degrees and Mirror the top photo I need to rotate the crank clockwise to rotate the cam anticlockwise by a couple of degrees, then I need to take of the pump again and reset the front cot to T again.

Now the question is.........would YOU bother with all that work if your truck was running okay ish?

I actually don’t mind doing it again as lockdown means I have lots of time and boredom is my worst enemy.
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[YOZA]

I decided to reset the timing as Mark had described to try and make my Timex to a Rolex.

I rotated the crank clockwise which rotated the cam anticlockwise until the first cam lobe was flat the horizontal and the cam gear dowel was bang on 12oclock.

I then took off the power steering pump to find the pump gear mark was out by tw teeth, so once again went through the rigmarole of releasing the pump.

I then reset the chipped tooth to T ......and put it back together.

I was pleased and quite excited with the work I had carried out in the freezing cold, wind and snow showers, to the point that I invited my wife out to the truck for the “grand start up”.

Drum roll ..............
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It wouldn’t start, 5 - 6 - 7 goes......nothing, I was getting fuel to the injectors, and power to the glo plugs, but it didn’t fire.

Not happy.

All sympathetic replies greatly received.

PS My wife comforted my tears by saying “ Don’t beat yourself up, you simply shouldn’t attempt jobs that are above your skill level “.  
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[Lewis]

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Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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[YOZA]

okay - this is where I’m at.






I would like to tidy up this post but there is no edit function, unfortunately.
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[YOZA]

IMPORTANT

When inserting the pump the notched tooth needs to be aligned with the T arrow on the pump plate, it is supposed to move clockwise with the mesh of the gears as you insert the pump.

If like me, you struggle to align the notched tooth with T when the pump is slide home, then the timing is out by one tooth, just let it rotate and the setting is correct.
I looked through the power steering pump aperture and tried several times to line the notched tooth with T with the pump slid home, eventually I did it, but this is incorrect. When you look through the aperture and you have let the pump cog rotate on the gear, then the notched-tooth is in fact on the N arrow, which is correct.  

Also to turn the pump after rebuild you will need to loosen the single 14mm bolt on the rear of the pump holding bracket, as well as two 12mm nuts on the pump fixing plate. To get to the unseen 12mm nut on the engine side of the pump plate I found to be impossible, so I jammed a socket and extension bar to it whilst it was out.(see pictures)

So all I did was start the truck and place a 10mm bolt between the cold start stat and the chock plate to mimic the engine being warn, and then rotated the pump clockwise and anti-clockwise until the tick over was even and smooth, also I could hear the knocking appear and disappear depending on where the pump was.

I found optimum position for my truck was 10deg anti-clockwise- ie pump towards the block, you can see how muck you have moved from zero as the pump and pump plate have two embossed lines that match up at zero.






Once I was happy I locked off the two nuts and the 14mm bolt and retrieved my extension bar.

My truck now runs better than it ever has, less smoke, more power, quieter and starts first click.[b]
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[YOZA]

This is the cold start mechanism I spoke about, it is a wax stat and as the water heats up, the wax melts and slowly extends the ram this retards the pump timing.



When the stat is cold the ram is closed, which leaves the pump in an advanced position, acting like a choke.



There are two adjustments for this mechanism the adjustment screw shown in the picture ( advance = clockwise and retard = anti clockwise ) and another which governs the cold start tick over below it.

Once the water reaches optimum temperature the stat mechanism releases the throttle lever and the standard tick over screw takes over.
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