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Diesel Injection Pump repair

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hrgcb



Joined: 01 Sep 2020
Posts: 6
Location: Saxmundham

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 12:36    Post subject: Diesel Injection Pump repair Reply with quote

Hi - not sure if this is the correct place to post this. I'm looking for someone in Suffolk / Eastanglia who can replace the seals on my injection pump (it's leaking). My Delica is the 1994 L300 Star Wagon GLX 2.5. It's a mechanical injection pump. I understand some specialist kit is needed to do the job. I've spoken to a diesel injection specialist in Colchester who has said I'd be looking at £1,200 + to do this. Mitsybitz have told me they do it in their workshop for around £300 but they are based in Rotherham which is a bit far for me.

Does anyone know a workshop that could do this a bit closer to the Suffolk / Eastanglia area at closer to the £300 Mitzybitz price.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 12:36    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
Posts: 881
Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 14:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

£1200???? good grief! £400 to £500 to rebuild the pump so the other £700 is for two hours labour?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 4782
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 9:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark - how much if it is just the usual front seal? hrgcb - does it start and run okay?
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 726
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 9:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds the like usual "quote £1000+ for a job I neither know how to do, or want to do, to make the man go away" quote... †Wink

Worth trying a few small independent places, perhaps? Sorry I can't suggest anything specific for your area but it may be worth ringing around, perhaps some places that specialise in Diesels?

I am fortunate that mine hasn't developed this problem (yet!), but would be interested to learn more about the reasons why this is such a specialist job?
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hrgcb



Joined: 01 Sep 2020
Posts: 6
Location: Saxmundham

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 9:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

@andyman - yes it starts and runs nicely
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 10:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, probably NOT the front seal, then.
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hrgcb



Joined: 01 Sep 2020
Posts: 6
Location: Saxmundham

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 16:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark3 wrote:
£1200???? good grief! £400 to £500 to rebuild the pump so the other £700 is for 2 hours labour?


Hi Mark - I see you are based in Essex so not too far from my neck of the woods. Sounds like you have some experience of this. Can you recommend anyone in your area who would do this type of work.
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hrgcb



Joined: 01 Sep 2020
Posts: 6
Location: Saxmundham

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 16:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

jejoenje wrote:
Sounds the like usual "quote £1000+ for a job I neither know how to do, or want to do, to make the man go away" quote... †Wink

Worth trying a few small independent places, perhaps? Sorry I can't suggest anything specific for your area but it may be worth ringing around, perhaps some places that specialise in Diesels?

I am fortunate that mine hasn't developed this problem (yet!), but would be interested to learn more about the reasons why this is such a specialist job?



Just relaying what the mechanic at my garage told me - if any of the parts are taken off to replace the seals the pump needs to be rebuilt on a jig as all of the boltholes are slots that allow movement rather than holes per-say & timing etc needs to be readjusted when done.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 726
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 18:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough... like I said, I have no actual idea of what's involved †Laughing †just that by the sounds of it, it is a common problem, so I like to try to educate myself whenever I can, for future reference... †Very Happy

I thought that at least some of these seals can be replaced the pump in situ, and avoiding messing up any timing? But perhaps that's optimistic...
This thread on the US forum is interesting and may be of use - https://~.com/index.php?threads/fuel-pump-leak-%E2%80%9892-L300.1746/

I think it's numbers 36 and 67/78 that seem to be mentioned as the main culprits in the above thread, in this diagram?
https://fuel-inject.com/fuel.zd/104/1047408232.png
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hrgcb



Joined: 01 Sep 2020
Posts: 6
Location: Saxmundham

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 10:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some useful links there - was not completely sure if that was the pump for the 2.8 or 2.5 - mine is the 2.5
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 11:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is an L300 Delica diesel right? So the engine will be 2.5L (code 4D56). I'm assuming the pump will be pretty much the same across all of those? I may be assuming wrong, mind...

From reading those forums, there are key differences between the 2.5 and 2.8 injection pumps in terms of common failure points, at least?
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hrgcb



Joined: 01 Sep 2020
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Location: Saxmundham

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 11:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes - that's right it's an L300 Diesel, sorry if my questions are a bit clueless but I'm a new owner and not particularly mechanically minded.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 726
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 11:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't apologise Smile That's what this forum is for, I came here from hardly knowing anything about car mechanics, let alone Delica specific stuff.

The vast majority (all?) of diesel 4WD L300's have the 2.5L 4D56 engine. I think the L300 in general (I.E. non 4WD) had some further engine variations, I'm not sure if that applied to the specific 4WD models as well. The petrols are different again.

I really don't know much about the L400's (so I'm sure someone will be along to correct me), but I think most have 2.8L diesel engines.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 19:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't want to spend an age re-timing the engine (and pump) when you put the pump back on, punch or paint- mark everything before you remove the belt. Even better, you may be able to hold the timing belt on the various sprockets, except the pump sprocket, while you remove the pump (having first marked the pump position on the engine front plate), by releasing the tension on the tensioner. As the sprocket teeth are straight, they are not nearly so difficult to align as the 2.8's helical-cut gear teeth.
The 2.5L 4D56T (Turbo) was the only diesel engine used in this style of L300 Delica, the non-turbo version also being used in other, 2WD variants. I find it very reassuring that while the 2.8L 4M40 was not widely applied after 2005, the 4D56 continued in the Shogun/L200 models for several years after, as well as being made under licence by other manufacturers.
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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
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Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2020 10:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Mark - how much if it is just the usual front seal? hrgcb - does it start and run okay?


The front seal on the 2.5s don't usually fail, in that I mean over the last 11 years I have replaced 1144 2.8 front seals †Shocked †BUT not one single 2.5 front seal, unless it's leaking fuel it its probably going to be okay †Very Happy
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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
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Location: Rainham Village, Essex

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2020 10:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

hrgcb wrote:

Hi Mark - I see you are based in Essex so not too far from my neck of the woods. Sounds like you have some experience of this. Can you recommend anyone in your area who would do this type of work.


I'm in South Essex so not that far really, front seals only really fail on the 2.8 engines.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2020 15:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark3 wrote:
The front seal on the 2.5s don't usually fail, in that I mean over the last 11 years I have replaced 1144 2.8 front seals †Shocked †BUT not one single 2.5 front seal, unless it's leaking fuel it its probably going to be okay †Very Happy


Thanks Mark, that is interesting. Mine has never failed, I just thought the pumps weren't that different.
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mark3



Joined: 29 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

The basic design of the pumps isn't that different but one being for a 2.5 and the other being for a 2.8 means one will never work correctly on the other engine

the thing that differentiates between the 2.8 failing and the 2.5 not failing is the engines themselves †Shocked

The 2.8 engine's injector pump is gear driven and because of this the seal is actually inside the engine and over time it gets baked hard and therefore won't relax to seal against the drive shaft when it contracts over the cold winter nights, meaning cold running sucks air in and you have stalling just until the engines warms sufficiently for the shaft to expand and seal the gap.

The 2.5 engine's injector pump is cam belt driven and is therefore exposed to fresh air and not in an oven like environment †Very Happy
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2020 13:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also ring round pajero/shogun specialists. Same pump.
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2020 22:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just came across this, which may be useful to know about if you need to get the pulley off the pump, for some reason:
https://~.com/index.php?threads/ip-front-seal-fuel-leak-and-makeshift-sprocket-puller.2776/
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