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L300 4x4 rear differential - sourcing a reconditioned unit

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Prescotian



Joined: 03 Feb 2015
Posts: 19
Location: Coventry

PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 9:43    Post subject: L300 4x4 rear differential - sourcing a reconditioned unit Reply with quote

I have a campervan constructed on 1996-7 flatbed L300. The casing of the rear diff has rusted through. I have stopped the leak with epoxy resin but guess that is not a long-term answer.
I have looked at ebay but I have no idea where I can find the part number for the rear diff on my vehicle.
My garage man advises searching for a reconditioned unit.
Any advice or ideas about sourcing a reconditioned unit would be welcome.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 18:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it 2WD or 4WD?

If 2WD you may find a case from an Hyundai H100 fits or old 2WD L300 van.

If you put your chassi number in here you can click through to part numbers:
https://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/

or here
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi
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Prescotian



Joined: 03 Feb 2015
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Location: Coventry

PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks for the links to the parts catalogue/numbers.  Much appreciated.
My vehicle is 2/4 wheel drive - with option of high or low 4WD. Don't know if this is relevant to sourcing replacing rear diff unit.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to ensure that the gear ratio of the replacement diff is identical to the one you are replacing, so that it matches the gearbox.

There is usually a plate attached to the gearbox giving a model type, that also includes the ratio.

Your V5 form should have the chassis number on it, plus there may be a number engraved into the inner side of a doorframe under a movable section of carpet.

HTH
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well now, this is VERY interesting.

I'm afraid this will of be of lilttle help to you, other than feeling you're not alone. I've literally just (yesterday) found another leak in my L300 rear axle casing!  Crying or Very sad
About two years ago I first ran into problems with this.
As per the linked thread, I ended up using silicone sealant and metal putty to fill a multitude of pinholes, mostly around the bottom end of the diff casing.
Much to my surprise, this has held up until now.

As I said, yesterday for the first time I noticed drips of oil on the bottom end of the diff again, and this time it appears to be coming from up and to the side,
around the region where the breather exits the axle. I did some more vigorous cleaning and I think I found another pinhole.
After a short run on the motorway this morning, there's diff oil everywhere so it's definitely gone again.  Crying or Very sad

So, like you, I've been lying awake again trying to think of a solution. A "reconditioned" axle would be the best option, but I have never heard or seen of one for sale.
There is a suitable "scrapper" one for sale on that auction site at the moment. Problem is of course, it is a scrapper and who knows what sort of life it has had,
so it may well have the same issues.
Next option that was mentioned to me is getting the casing welded (professionally). This may or may not work, and regardless would be a pretty skilled job I think.
I certainly don't trust my own welding skills enough to do this.

Please do let me know what you come across in your search for (good condition) used/reconditioned axles. I think I may be in the market for one.  Confused

With regards to finding part numbers; others have already given helpful websites. I find Megazip very useful. All you need is your chassis number.
Final option would be to do what I did, and clean the axle casing off as best you can, drain the diff, degrease thoroughly, and patch ALL pinholes using metal putty.
This may be a bodge, but I think it is a fairly commonly used one - and mine lasted for a good few years!
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Prescotian



Joined: 03 Feb 2015
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 12:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lewis for the info - following the different website links I think I have all the relevant information about gear-ratios etc. On the information plate beneath drivers seat along 'Transaxle' it reads V5M21 4875 ... and I gather the last four numbers refer to the gear ratio.

Thanks for the therapy Jejoenje -maybe if there are others with similar problem we could club together and maybe get a bulk order for replacements from Japan or somewhere!
Interested in your use of metal putty etc. I was in touch with a self-labelled 'Mitsubishi Anorak' at viamoto who gave me the contact details of someone in the Midlands who might be prepared to do some welding on the rear casing, which is where the leak is/was. I contacted them and sent photos - then phoned. His advice, as I understood it, was if I had managed to stop the leak using epoxy resin then he would leave it as is. He pointed out that all he would be doing by welding would be filling up/covering up the holes ...  So it is interesting to me that your 'patch-up work' with the metal putty lasted two years. When I reported this conversation to the engineer in Coventry who has been really helpful he raised  his eyebrows but did not say anything more. He is trying his contacts for a reconditioned axle/diff (sorry - not an engineer so technical literacy is poor) - he reported to me that one of his contacts estimated that if a reconditioned unit was available it would cost in the region of £900 ... and we would be looking at a minimum of six hours labour. (Just sharing this information in case it is helpful).

Mitzybitz had a scrapped unit for sale, but they advised me that it would not fit my vehicle. I checked out one advertised on the e-auction site but failed to get the necessary info to figure out whether it would fit mine.

An auto-engineer in Coventry said he would be prepared to grind down the casing and reweld, but he was assuming the axle unit had been removed from the vehicle. (Although I have been advised by two people expert in welding that as it is a casing it requires special treatment).

If the quest is successful and a reconditioned unit becomes available - for sure I shall share the info about supplier etc.
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 14:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prescotian wrote:

On the information plate beneath drivers seat along 'Transaxle' it reads V5M21 4875 ... and I gather the last four numbers refer to the gear ratio.

Yes the last four numbers would be the diff gear ratio, 4.875. The first five chars (V5M21) I'm pretty sure is the gearbox code.
If you have a look at the first few characters of your VIN number, it should start with P... (my model number for example is P35W).
This is what you can then use on Megazip to find part numbers.

With regards to mechanics raising eyebrows at metal putty bodges - well, yes, I fully agree! I would love a better solution... but I haven't found one yet!
Like I said, I may at some point take a punt on a second hand one, but you never know what condition they are in...

I'm a bit surprised by the suggestion of £900 quote for a reconditioned one! Have you seen this:
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mb527396
Just as an example, this is what I'm pretty sure is my exact axle housing - if this is legit, the price here works out as £685 including shipping from Japan...
and I assume this is a new item! I've never used Amayama yet, mind.
Perhaps it would be worthwhile asking your Mitsi dealer for a quote - my local one has been surprisingly helpful when I just asked them for a particular part number,
and it has the added benefit of them covering postage costs.
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Prescotian



Joined: 03 Feb 2015
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Location: Coventry

PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 14:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the link to amayama. Unfortunately when I looked up the part number I have been told is the one for my vehicle (MB393507) - (my 'model' is coded KC-P25T-YHNJT1) the total price for rear axle plus shipping is over £1700!!!!
But on the basis of your experience, and taking account of engineer's raised eyebrows, I shall settle for metal magic whilst continuing the search for a better solution.
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 18:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yipes! That indeed is mad.
I would still at least give a Mitsi dealership a go, they have surprised me (both negatively and positively) in the past. You never know.

I've just finished sticking another metal epoxy patch on the new hole I found. I'll be able to report back soon.

Other than that solution, you might be able to further widen your search for (decent) second hand ones by searching abroad?
I'm Dutch and speak a bit of German so if you can find ads for ones there, I'd be happy to (try to) help.
I know that at least in the NL there are quite a few of the mid 90's flatbed van L300's about, so there must be suitable parts... somewhere...  Rolling Eyes
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 18:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would imagine I'm going to have a similar problem on day so also interested.

Here's another bodge of the century thought...
I wonder if it would be possible to make a bowl shaped cover for the back of the diff to bond over the whole lot? Would need a filler hole let in and a washer/gasket/bond around that hole.


I was thinking dogs dinner...

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Prescotian



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 19:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Extending search to NL and beyond is a good idea. I have some Japanese friends and had thought about trying them.
Re the dog's dinner (bowl) - I'll suggest it to my friendly auto-engineer but I think he will raise more than his eyebrows! BUt then again - what do I know. I am not an engineer.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 20:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prescotian wrote:
MB393507


That is the part number for the differential gears and housing.

If your is leaking out of the back of the diff area of the axle then you need the axle casing, which is a cast steel item - Probably part number MB912886.

See:- Axle casing

You need to check what the suspension fitment and type is - Leaf or Coil spring.

HTH
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Last edited by Lewis on Fri Jun 07, 2019 20:22; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 20:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

jejoenje wrote:
Well now, this is VERY interesting.

Next option that was mentioned to me is getting the casing welded (professionally). This may or may not work, and regardless would be a pretty skilled job I think.
I certainly don't trust my own welding skills enough to do this.

PP may well have a good solution - What would I do - - -

If a metal bowl could be found that fitted nicely, I would BRAZE the bowl  - Not Weld.
No metal bowl available, then I would shape a metal sheet to suit.

Reason for brazing = It would not distort the casings as much as welding.
When welding, the molten pool of ferrous metal contracts, and would pull other parts out of line  Sad

This is a job I could do, with axle off car. Half Shafts and Diff unit removed. Owner present to help.

I do not use Brass Brazing wire, I use Sif Bronze welding rods, it flows much nicer than Brass.

Mr D
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Prescotian



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 22:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re suspension - I remember having to source coil springs for the local garage that I was using at the time.
Have gotten a price for MB912886 and am checking with Amayama to confirm etc.
Camper is due in for its MOT Monday. (Engineer said that bodged job (epoxy resin) on the differential case would be an 'advisory' and not a reason to fail. Anyways - it will give me a chance to report back on what I have learned from you folks on the forum.

I am on a steep learning curve here. Just want to express my appreciation to all the folks who have contributed..
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andyman



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 23:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coil springs on an L300? I thought they were all leaf springs, but some models have the axle under the springs, and some over. Don't quote me.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 16:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

1986 Platform Chassis L300 :- https://www.autodoc.co.uk/suplex/8312160   Wink
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davep10000



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 10:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same camper as you based on a p25t chassis cab.
a friend has also just had his leaky L200 rear diff casing welded in situ (after draining oil) cost him an hours labour.
not elegant but if done by someone who can weld carefully it's a good option.
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 15:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would your friend be willing to share the contact for the garage/welder who did this for him?
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 15:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prescotian wrote:
Re suspension - I remember having to source coil springs for the local garage that I was using at the time.
Have gotten a price for MB912886 and am checking with Amayama to confirm etc.
Camper is due in for its MOT Monday. (Engineer said that bodged job (epoxy resin) on the differential case would be an 'advisory' and not a reason to fail. Anyways - it will give me a chance to report back on what I have learned from you folks on the forum.

I am on a steep learning curve here. Just want to express my appreciation to all the folks who have contributed..


I hope the MOT worked out okay and relatively painless, Prescotian.
Mine passed two tests with small patches of metal epoxy on the diff (no leaks from them though!), plus a slightly weeping rear prop seal.
I don't think they're even advisories on mine, but I think much will depend on the tester and what they had for breakfast.  Rolling Eyes
Anyway I am not sure how it could be a fail, as long as it's not leaking!

I promised to report back - so the further leak I found last week, I seem to have been able to plug again using the same method (epoxy and silicone sealant).
This pinhole is on the top of the diff, just next to the breather tube, and it was spewing oil all over the place after a short (high-ish speed) drive.
After epoxying a couple of days ago, and a few drives later, no leaks yet.
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davep10000



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 15:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest, it was only the local village garage - he just put patches over the holed area, doesn't look great, but a job any decent bodyshop welder could do.
a bit of a 'farmers fix'!, but it was only an old, L200 that didn't warrant much money being spent on it.

L300 axles do come up now and again - maybe worth ringing mitzybitz?

Good luck,
Dave.
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