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Body removal off chassis L300


 
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Deadhead



Joined: 24 Jan 2020
Posts: 15
Location: Dublin

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 18:49    Post subject: Body removal off chassis L300 Reply with quote

Hi guys,

After crossed wires with my mate the mechanic-it turned out that the bolt is snapped inside mounting bracket for alternator. I thought things were looking good but we still can't remove it as access is tight even with radiator and fan out. Mechanic has suggested either engine out or body lifted off chassis. What work is involved in lifting the body off the chassis?, Can't find any info anywhere.

Many thanks and stay safe.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 21:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chassis (so called) is unitary (welded) with the body, so you cannot separate them. The bolt head does not rotate, as it is held still by lugs on the bracket casting. You can only undo the nut on the other end. Drench in Plus-Gas or other good release agent and leave to soak, including both ends where the bolt goes through the bracket. If you can get the nut off (I'd be surprised if you could snap that bolt), or loosened by a few threads,so the nut is level with the end of the bolt, then try to hit the nut to unstick the bolt in its  holes. Also try hitting the bracket on the sides of its arms; this can sometimes crack the corrosion that is sticking the bolt, and allow the penetrating fluid to penetrate. There is not a lot of room to work, so you may need hammers and bars of various sizes and weights. I often use bolts of different lengths as drifts, and hit them with the side of the hammer head where there is limited room to swing. Does the alternator pivot around its bolt, or does the bolt rotate in the bracket? Heat may help, but be careful not to melt the alloy!
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 21:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS if this is a diesel, have you removed the vacuum pump from the back of the alternator to get better access and space for removal?
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Deadhead



Joined: 24 Jan 2020
Posts: 15
Location: Dublin

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andy,

your reply as always is much appreciated. The bolt is snapped in the top bracket arm of the cast housing. The bolt screws in from the front of the alternator, through the curved tensioning arm and into the cast bracket. The bracket is not open ended. The threaded chamber has only one hole at the front. The bolt does not come out the other end. This is different to the setup on my 93 donor vehicle. We tried to drill into the stuck bolt yesterday but Can't get a bite into it.
How involved is an engine drop? Any detailed previous posts about on it?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to get this clear in my own mind, are we talking about the bolt that fixes the (steel) curved and slotted tensioner arm to the casting on the block, or the one that bolts to the top lug on the alternator? (I previously thought you were talking about the bottom pivot bolt and bracket.) Is the curved, steel tensioner arm in serviceable conditon, and is it simply the fact that the bolt is snapped the problem? I've just been outside to look at mine, but I think I'd need to remove the driver's seat and under panel to get a good look at it. Is enough of the bolt stem visible enough to be able to weld another bolt or nut to it, so you can get some purchase on it? (After a thorough soaking in release agent).
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS re-removal of the engine. I believe the favoured method is to get it out through the cab, with an engine crane (although I have never done it). However, that may be the home mechanic's method, a garage with a hydraulic lift may prefer to take it out from the bottom. Pink Pig or others may be able to advise on this. Either way, it is not a quick and easy job, and expensive if you are paying a professional.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

PPS Have you looked through the complete downloadable manuals in L300 FAQs, provided by Pink Pig?
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PinkPig
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Joined: 05 Aug 2004
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Location: Southampton, UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 22:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RJw8XocpkhyFm4sT7

Does this picture help?

Yes, recent engine change it came out through the passenger door.
I think the only way to drop it out the bottom involves suspension, steering, front subframe, every rusty bolt and crusty pipe you can imagine.
As you'll see in the second picture even the experts (SVS) take the engine out the door.
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1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 22:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm won't if you can make another bracket? Bolted to power steering pump or somewhere else on the block?
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/__PinkPig___/

A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 22:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at your pictures Roger.

Using the Power Steering pump bolt looks to be a good idea  Smile

Mr D
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 9:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the water pump bolt, around 70mm to the right of the (presumed) offending adjuster bracket bolt will come out without snapping,
welding an extension to the adjuster arm to reach that position, fitting a longer bolt, and possibly spacerwashers behind it would perhaps
be a simpler and more rigid fix.

While the steering pump bracket is very strong, the distance and angle to the adjuster arm would put a sizable strain (leverage) on the
added fabrication and its fixing points at either end, any bending of this bracket will slacken the belt(s);
squealing alternator belts are a common feature of L300s anyway!
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