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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 19:07 Post subject: new radiator |
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Looks like the top of the radiator is leaking ...time for a new one , any suggestions as best place to get one from ? prob change the water pump as well , I've heard they can go .. _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 19:07 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Soulman Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Sep 2009 Posts: 638 Location: Bedfont, Middlesex
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16296 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2019 17:06 Post subject: |
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That'll fit, plus a decent price and free delivery.
If you don't have any hose clamps, for using on the ATF feed lines, a couple of these will come in useful:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=302872711344&_sacat=0
HTH _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2019 22:07 Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice ....brilliant _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 18:22 Post subject: |
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Well I've fitted the new rad and all went well ....thanks soulman Draining the system, is there a drain plug on the engine block and if so do I need to drain to drain that? and should I use a chemical flush before I top up again with antifreeze? thanks in advance. _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 21:19 Post subject: |
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When I bought a replacement rad, the seller said "Clean/flush the system, or warranty will be invalidated"
HTH
Mr D |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 21:36 Post subject: |
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Mr D, did you use a chemical or a hose pipe to flush the system and do you know if there is an engine block drain? _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 22:15 Post subject: |
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I just used hosepipe.
Engine block drain, I think there is, I didn't use it.
Mr D |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 22:39 Post subject: |
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okay thanks Mr D ...i used the hose pipe too _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 9:09 Post subject: |
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I fitted the new radiator and a new thermostat and now my front blowers only blow luke warm air and the rear cold, i've bled the system using the top plastic bleed screw ...is it possible its the new thermostat?
Also when bleeding from the top plastic screw, i had all the blowers full and up to max temp, i kept the revs up and the water took ages to come out and then really shot out on deceleration.....what am i looking for to be correct?
Thanks in advance _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 20:09 Post subject: |
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Thermostat - Possibly. But I doubt that.
I changed my T.stat, made no difference to what appeared to be cool - ish running.
No need to have blowers on. The cooling system is of the "Full recirculating" type. There are NO shut off valves to the cabin heaters.
Did the T.stat have a hole with a "Floating" pin in it
Water should emanate from the Bleed Screw at a fast idle.
Make sure car is NOT pointing "Downhill" when bleeding the system.
I would suggest, do short runs with the car, for a day or two, then try re-bleeding. Watch the water level between runs
DO have the pressure cap OFF when bleeding.
AND ensure water is emanating from the bleed valve when you lock it. DO NOT over-tighten the Bleed screw.
Mr D |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2020 21:43 Post subject: |
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I have the cap on when i have the bleed screw open and only seem to get water coming out of the bleed screw when i let off the revs and yes on flat ground ... I've been for a few drives and keeping my eye on levels , carrying top up with me wherever i go ...thanks Mr D _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Soulman Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Sep 2009 Posts: 638 Location: Bedfont, Middlesex
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 13:21 Post subject: |
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Is it possible that the heater rads have become a bit slugged up? after all, the old rad possibly blew because of slugging, I know in my case the new rad was significantly lighter than the old one which I assumed was because of sludge, and the reason I changed my rad was the same as you it split at the top. |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 15:16 Post subject: |
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Soulman , its more than possible thats the the case ..i have a feeling i am going to have to flush it all again ... i am just not sure of what bleeding from the top screw is meant to look like when its correct , i rev the van and still nothing comes out until i de rev then it comes flying out , i don't seem to be able to get a steady flow ...not sure if thats air in the system or not ? _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Soulman Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Sep 2009 Posts: 638 Location: Bedfont, Middlesex
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 17:59 Post subject: |
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Did you bleed the system after the thermostat was open and the engine was up to temperature? if not that may be something to try. Also did you fit the thermostat with the little hole at the top, apparently that is quite important. |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 18:27 Post subject: |
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yeah i made sure the stat went in same way up as old one and before i filled up the van ....i think it maybe the heater matrix is blocked up ...i can see me stripping it all down again and re flushing .
I got the radiator you suggested and it all fitted in fine , thank you _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 20:25 Post subject: |
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boxerbloke wrote: |
1) I have a feeling I am going to have to flush it all again ...
2) I am just not sure of what bleeding from the top screw is meant to look like when its correct ,
3) A) I rev the van and still nothing comes out. B) until I de rev then it comes flying out , I don't seem to be able to get a steady flow . |
1) Use a chemical cleaner. Long time back. I used Dishwasher powder. Also try Limescale remover. MUST be fully flushed after use.
2) As I said a few posts above. <> 2,000 RPM should do it. Maybe only a steady trickle.
3) A) Best to rev the engine B) Quite normal, usually shows the water pump is working.
BTW. Were the heaters working okay before Rad change
Mr D |
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boxerbloke Lifetime member
Joined: 18 Jun 2011 Posts: 2241 Location: Bracknell
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 22:15 Post subject: |
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Thanks Mr D ....the heaters were playing up before but thought it was the stat at first then realised rad was leaking and so put two and two together and got five _________________ Always remember when you read my replies I know less than Bazza. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 22:38 Post subject: |
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Could be water pump
Mr D |
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delboy
Joined: 21 Jun 2005 Posts: 154 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 3:04 Post subject: |
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After being away from the scene I am looking at the same problems I had all those years ago.
I too changed the rad , still poor heaters change pump as impellers had disintegrated, even changed the matrix inside under dash (bitch of a Job, but had matrix flushed and checked by Autorads here in Sheffield) still had only lukewarm heating. Never did resolve it fully.
Would like a D5 but funds not available, hopefully better heat in those. |
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