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Deadhead
Joined: 24 Jan 2020 Posts: 15 Location: Dublin
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 18:49 Post subject: Body removal off chassis L300 |
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Hi guys,
After crossed wires with my mate the mechanic-it turned out that the bolt is snapped inside mounting bracket for alternator. I thought things were looking good but we still can't remove it as access is tight even with radiator and fan out. Mechanic has suggested either engine out or body lifted off chassis. What work is involved in lifting the body off the chassis?, Can't find any info anywhere.
Many thanks and stay safe. |
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 18:49 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 21:33 Post subject: |
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The chassis (so called) is unitary (welded) with the body, so you cannot separate them. The bolt head does not rotate, as it is held still by lugs on the bracket casting. You can only undo the nut on the other end. Drench in Plus-Gas or other good release agent and leave to soak, including both ends where the bolt goes through the bracket. If you can get the nut off (I'd be surprised if you could snap that bolt), or loosened by a few threads,so the nut is level with the end of the bolt, then try to hit the nut to unstick the bolt in its holes. Also try hitting the bracket on the sides of its arms; this can sometimes crack the corrosion that is sticking the bolt, and allow the penetrating fluid to penetrate. There is not a lot of room to work, so you may need hammers and bars of various sizes and weights. I often use bolts of different lengths as drifts, and hit them with the side of the hammer head where there is limited room to swing. Does the alternator pivot around its bolt, or does the bolt rotate in the bracket? Heat may help, but be careful not to melt the alloy! _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 21:44 Post subject: |
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PS if this is a diesel, have you removed the vacuum pump from the back of the alternator to get better access and space for removal? _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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Deadhead
Joined: 24 Jan 2020 Posts: 15 Location: Dublin
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:20 Post subject: |
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Hi Andy,
your reply as always is much appreciated. The bolt is snapped in the top bracket arm of the cast housing. The bolt screws in from the front of the alternator, through the curved tensioning arm and into the cast bracket. The bracket is not open ended. The threaded chamber has only one hole at the front. The bolt does not come out the other end. This is different to the setup on my 93 donor vehicle. We tried to drill into the stuck bolt yesterday but Can't get a bite into it.
How involved is an engine drop? Any detailed previous posts about on it? |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:27 Post subject: |
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Just to get this clear in my own mind, are we talking about the bolt that fixes the (steel) curved and slotted tensioner arm to the casting on the block, or the one that bolts to the top lug on the alternator? (I previously thought you were talking about the bottom pivot bolt and bracket.) Is the curved, steel tensioner arm in serviceable conditon, and is it simply the fact that the bolt is snapped the problem? I've just been outside to look at mine, but I think I'd need to remove the driver's seat and under panel to get a good look at it. Is enough of the bolt stem visible enough to be able to weld another bolt or nut to it, so you can get some purchase on it? (After a thorough soaking in release agent). _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:34 Post subject: |
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PS re-removal of the engine. I believe the favoured method is to get it out through the cab, with an engine crane (although I have never done it). However, that may be the home mechanic's method, a garage with a hydraulic lift may prefer to take it out from the bottom. Pink Pig or others may be able to advise on this. Either way, it is not a quick and easy job, and expensive if you are paying a professional. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:40 Post subject: |
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PPS Have you looked through the complete downloadable manuals in L300 FAQs, provided by Pink Pig? _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 22:36 Post subject: |
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Looking at your pictures Roger.
Using the Power Steering pump bolt looks to be a good idea
Mr D |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2020 9:22 Post subject: |
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If the water pump bolt, around 70mm to the right of the (presumed) offending adjuster bracket bolt will come out without snapping,
welding an extension to the adjuster arm to reach that position, fitting a longer bolt, and possibly spacerwashers behind it would perhaps
be a simpler and more rigid fix.
While the steering pump bracket is very strong, the distance and angle to the adjuster arm would put a sizable strain (leverage) on the
added fabrication and its fixing points at either end, any bending of this bracket will slacken the belt(s);
squealing alternator belts are a common feature of L300s anyway! _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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