Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

O/S Inner CV boot is split.
Having a bit of trouble sourcing one.
Dealer wants £63 + VAT!!!
Has anyone used the Milner Polyurethane ones? Milner Polyurethane Boots
I've never used any polyurethane anything before so a bit cautious about using them. Eurocarparts don't have them at the mo. Unsure about the correct ones on eBay.
Any other sources you guys know of?

Thanks in advance.

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Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

Sorry, Near Side Inner not O/S.

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

My OCD can't really stand the orange either! Rolling Eyes

Deker · Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood

Go for the cheap - They are easy to replace.

Mr D

Lewis · Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 19:47 Post subject:

That dealer is trying to rip you off and needs a hot poker shoving where the sun doesn't shine. Evil or Very Mad

Ask your local autofactor for a ' universal CV boot ', either BLUE PRINT or Quinton Hazel brand and tell him BLUE PRINT part number ADM58151.

NB: they are not 'sided', so fit either joint just as easily.

HTH
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Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

Thanks Lewis.
I assume when I take the driveshaft out it will give me access to the outer boot at the same time?
If this is the case, would it not be wise to change the outer one at the same time. I'm assuming it's probably 21 years old!

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

Do you happen to have the blue print part number for the outer one please Lewis?
Cheers

Deker · Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood

Lewis · Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 20:12 Post subject:

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

ahhh okay, splendid! Thank you :D

b3lha · Joined: 06 Jun 2015 Posts: 51 Location: Redhill

I use those stretchy boots. It makes the job much easier, no need to dismantle the joints.

You put a cone over the joint and cover it in grease, put the boot in boiling water for a few minutes to soften the rubber, then slide it over the cone.

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

No need to dismantle the joints? I'm confused!!??
I like the sound of it though!

YOZA · Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 11:15 Post subject:

With a normal boot you need to take the bearing off to slide the boot onto the drive shaft. The large ball bearings are held in with an outer cage and an inner race, you need to unhook a large circlip ring and a smaller circlip on the shaft to slide it off, note the orientation of the bronze thrust washers and also the amount or thickness of the end float washer / spacers as these take up the end float in the shaft when putting the end circlip back on.The driveshaft is held in the gearbox with a snap ring, you simply jolt it out by hand.
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Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

okay, I removed the large circlip ring to withdraw drive shaft and then removed the small circlip to remove inner/outer race but there was no sign of any washers/spacers?? Is this correct?
Thanks.

YOZA · Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 14:18 Post subject:

The end float washers sit at the very tip of the shaft roadside they are kept in place with a circlip which is the last thing to snap on.

The copper/bronze large washer sits at the end of each nuckle one gearbox end / one knuckle end, sometime they stay in situ, sometimes they slide off with the shaft.

The bronze washers can be fitted the wrong way around, the right way is to match up the chamfer in the washer to the chamfer on the shaft then they will mate.
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Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity....

YOZA · Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 14:32 Post subject:

This guy explains better with pictures.

http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=145766
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Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity....

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

Just to confirm what I have done. I have only disconnected the drive shaft from the inner end, by disconnecting the track rod end and the three mount bolts on the upper ball joint. This was enough to withdraw the drive shaft out of the inner end. I was then going to slide off the outer boot and refit without disturbing the road side end at all. (still awaiting boot to arrive)
I hope that makes sense! So i never saw the bronze washer in question, which I assume is the road side/hub end?.

YOZA · Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 16:38 Post subject:

It does make sense- I was under the impression you were changing both inner and outer boots on the off side.

I would take the drive shaft out to set it on a bench, but that is just my preference, it’s a dirty job and weaving my hands in and out of the wish bones and shockers whilst on my back is annoying.

The way you have done it will not involve bronze washers, end float spacers and circlip as you have not taken the shaft off, you cheated. :D
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Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity....

Bizmarty · Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Bristol

I did cheat then!! In fact it was extremely easy! It took about 30 mins to get the boots off! I was expecting hours!
I found the upper ball joint worn, so waiting for a new one to arrive tomorrow, then it's reassembly.
Thanks for all the help so far Smile

Lewis · Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 18:18 Post subject:

For future reference, if you need to do the bearing, when you will need to remove the aforementioned brass washer, see the photos on this post:-

http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=46184
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Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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