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New turbo

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YOZA



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 14:36    Post subject: New turbo Reply with quote

I reconditioned my turbo approx five years ago with a cheap refurb kit (see here http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42066) well it finally gave up the will to live. It had so much end play through bearing wear that the fins on the front rotor hit the compressor casing and broke to bits, yet it still got me home on a 130 ml journey with a bit more smoke and a little less power.

I was happy with the 80,000mls and small outlay but this time I have opted to replace it with a new one.

Now for the controversial bit..... I bought a Chinese unit off e-bay for £90 delivered. Shocked



Looking at it I can see no issues, the cast is neat and all the threaded holes are clear, it comes with a readout of its balance under load and a warranty and a fast shipping from a local address.




I find Doing this job that it is easier to remove the inter cooler, air box top, turbo and inter cooler pipes, Also take off oil:water feed pipes, then the inlet manifold, the exhaust from the down pipe - while your down there pull off the rubber oil excess drain pipe from the steel turbo pipe.



Now you will be left with a turbo/exhaust  and exhaust down pipe, pull it all out together and place on a bench.





Now it is easy to access the five bolts that will be welded tight around the stubby down pipe, and the three bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold. Use a breaker bar and if you feel the bolt is going to shear then use some heat.



I have decided to blank off the end of the manifold pressure release valve and replace it with an adjustable valve that will fit where the EGR valve used to live.







I have also decided to fit my KandN inside the air-box.



On reassembly use new gaskets for the oil drain pipe, exhaust to stubby, stubby to turbo, and manifold to head also induction manifold to head.









I also replaced all banjo bolt copper 'O' rings on oil sand water feed pipes.

It makes sense to change the engine oil and filter and it’s important to fill the oil inlet hole with oil before fitting the pipe this ensures turbo NHS’s fresh oil on start up.

I will finish off post when time allows - and post performance info and longevity of turbo life as we go on.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 14:36    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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YOZA



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 20:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

A picture of the old turbo with the rotor fins smashed up.



And the waste gate housing with the wastegate jammed shut.



Shocked
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Green Grouch
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 21:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top post Yoza.

8-)
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 23:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neat.

Those fins have taken a pounding.  Sad
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andyman



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 14:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm assuming that is the exhaust turbine? Inlet impeller bits are what kills many a turbo engine, very common on Peugeot/Citroen Mazda/Ford 1.6TD.
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 18:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is actually the front inlet turbine, I didn’t see any bits on dissection so I assumed they burnt up.

Any how, where was I, ah yes -

Inlet manifold and exhaust manifold back on.


Turbo and manifold lock on to exhaust manifold via 1 bolt at the top and 2 nuts on studs to the base, new triangular gasket required. Then reconnect the base oil return pipe and the top oil feed pipe, then reconnect the 2 water pipes - all 4 pipes are secured via banjo bolts.



Note before fixing the top oil feed pipe fill the journal with fresh oil so the shaft is lubricated immediately on start up.



Then pop the heat shields on x4



Next I fitted my adjustable dump valve.


Checked its water and oil, cranked it over and away it went.

Now on test  :D

Next intercooler pipes, air box and turbo down pipe, refit inter cooler assembly and then wire and plumb it in.

Last but not least reconnect the exhaust to the turbo manifold x2 nuts.


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YOZA



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm...

I have a nasty whistle and chuff chuff like a steam engine, oh dear.

I have ruled out my new dump valve ( or bath tap as Lewis called it) so answers on a post card lol. Idea

Ps drives fine, boosts well, not smoke / it just whistles and chuffs.

My money is on an untightened manifold bolt. Embarassed
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 14:15    Post subject: Reply with quote



It seems I have a cracked ex manifold, this has been welded before in a previous life and has opened up again after this assembly.

Why now. Rolling Eyes

Saw one on eBay with a welded crack in the same position with a quote: manifold in good working condition with a repaired crack in the usual place. :?

Is this a common fault that I have never heard of Question
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 15:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was an epic, can’t stand doing a job twice.

My old cracked manifold.





And my new one.



All done now - but that was like a game of snakes and ladders, think you have finished? nah go back 25 places and start again. Laughing
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mouseflakes



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 11:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very frustrating! Hope it's running nicely with the new unit now.
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shhhhh.... can’t say it too loud, but it’s running really well / just needs 2 front drive shafts as they are a bit clicky.

Cheers  :D
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 18:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many years back - this was for Ford Mk 1 & Mk 2 Granada's, I used to re-grind the half round channels in CVJ's when they started "clonking"

As I could do the job cheaper than buying new CVJ's + fitting
My customers were very happy to give me pretty pieces of coloured paper with the Queens head on them  :D

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YOZA



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alrighty then.

I have run through two tanks of fuel (approx 550mls) and up to now all is well.

I had a small oil leak from the base of my turbo inlet pipe this was down to the silly washing machine type hose clips that came as mitsubishi standard, the wire cuts into the rubber after a while, so I replaced this with a jubilee clip which covered the small split.

Also I had to adjust my TPS as my gear changes had moved, I put this down to my new turbo producing more or less boost or delivering it at a different time than the old one did. ( or it could have been that the battery had been off for a couple of days). :?
Anyway the gear changes were all bunched up at low revs / changing really quick, so I adjusted the screw by trial and error until I stretched out the change signal to my liking - now it is fine.

The turbo is performing well, it boosts well, burns no oil so produces no smoke, whistles nice through the K&N and up the snorkel, so up to now I’m happy.

Let us see how this mega cheap Chinese turbo performs after a longer period of time. Question
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Pierre
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 13:25    Post subject: Turbo stuff Reply with quote

Hi Yoza,
How is the new turbo performing?
Just taken mine off and the wastegate actuator is siezed solid.
After looking at the cost of a new actuator, for a few shillings more I could buy a similar turbo to yours.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Best regards,
P
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 14:00    Post subject: Re: Turbo stuff Reply with quote

Yes it’s been fine, very little oil in the intercooler or filter box, less smoke on acceleration so I’m happy up to now.

Think I’ve done about 1500miles on it whizzing about in the school holidays.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the actuator bar is threaded and locked with a nut, which is ideal if you want more than 1.3 left boost, simply shorten the bar with one nut - easy 2 min job.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 18:03    Post subject: Turbo stuff Reply with quote

Thanks Yoza,
I appreciate your comments.
Best regards,
P
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 11:58    Post subject: Turbo mod? Reply with quote

Next question.
Any benefit from adding washers between the turbo housing and wastegate actuator bracket, ala original Mark3 mod, before fitting turbo?
Although actuator arm is adjustable, adding/removing washers is easier than removing turbo from engine at a later stage to adjust the rod.
All answers considered.
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 15:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you unlock the rod locking nut the shaft turns lengthening or shortening the rod with everything in-situ, or mine does, I should say.

Mine was set from the factory @ 1.2 to 1.3 PSI, I tried to type this earlier in the post but my phone text predicted something completely different.  Rolling Eyes


I would see what your STD boost is before adding any more, you don't want to kill it on its first week. Wink
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 14:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eight weeks and 2500miles and all is well with my turbo, actuator and wastegate.

I did have a heart stopping moment when my oil pressure switch burst whilst making progress down the m6 thellwall.

I had waited in traffic for ages then it cleared, so regained cruising speed when I saw my oil light go on - no flicker just bright, solid. With a Proper smell of burning oil and soiled underpants I pulled over and turned it off, there was oil everywhere, thought it was done for...the air coming through the grill plus the fan wizzing had sprayed the oil everywhere, even on the screen.  Shocked

Then I find out it was a £6.00 oil pressure switch - back slaps & kisses all round - a steam clean, three litres of oil and the new switch and I was back in business, with the truck apparently feeling no ill effects at all even after being carried home on a low loader.  :D
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2018 14:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bad.





Good.



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