Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

buzr6mille · Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 18:02 Post subject:

Cheaper than a new engine Crying or Very sad

Depends how good on a spanner you are, and pulley £50 to £80
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Lewis · Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 18:36 Post subject:

Some info and photos on this post:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28547
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buzr6mille · Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 19:01 Post subject:

Oh and a stretch bolt would be advised Wink

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2nd gear low and go go go!

It's A Shame That Stupidity Isn't Painful..

One dent at a time...

Andy W · Joined: 03 May 2015 Posts: 560 Location: Brighton

Have you got A/C fitted to your van as I suffered lots of squeal when the A/C compressor started to cease up - I didn't run the A/C but periodically I turned it on by mistake and after a while got the squeal; I've taken the belt off until I get round to fixing it.
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Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

Hmmm. okay. Thanks.
PITA but doable.
Didn't see a reply to the question of salvage over new for a replacement - whaddya reckon?

Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

Lewis · Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 0:10 Post subject:

Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

Thanks for that Lewis - I'll give that a try

Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

One other question guys - a post in 2011 from "Delicaman" said, "best thing is to change the pully to a billet type with no crapy rubber to go wrong you will only have to do it once saves money in long run."
Anyone know what a billet type is, and if this is a good idea?
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Delicajunkie · Joined: 11 Jan 2017 Posts: 11 Location: Liverpool

A billet type is a pully that has been cut out of a single piece of aluminum on a CNC machine. They are lighter and as being one piece of metal would be strong because there are no joints or seems that can come apart. The problem would be in this case is the crank pully is also a harmonic balancer and the rubber acts like a cushion against the vibrations of the crank as is spins from TDC to BDC. A billet pully may cause other items to wear prematurely.
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buzr6mille · Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 7:41 Post subject:

Could done in less than half a day, intercooler off, alternator belts off, sump guard off, bolt out, pulley off, back together, if careful you can keep the rad on
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2nd gear low and go go go!

It's A Shame That Stupidity Isn't Painful..

One dent at a time...

buzr6mille · Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:29 Post subject:

But mark it first, as Mr Lewis has said before you even think of changing it
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2nd gear low and go go go!

It's A Shame That Stupidity Isn't Painful..

One dent at a time...

Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

okay here's an update.
Having marked the crank pulley (no mean feat as it turns out lol) and driven it for a squealy 5 mile drive, nothing seem to have moved.
(Don't know if that's a long enough drive tho?)

So, I thought Id take a closer look at the alternator - with both belts off there is a tiny amount of lateral movement on the alternator pulleys like 1-2mm.
Does anyone think this might be enough of an offset from true to result in the slacker front belt and the squeal?

I also came across a youtube of a Delica with what seemed to be an enlarged alternator mounting, which could also account for my problem. Anyone come across this before? Link below

youtube

Lewis · Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 15:37 Post subject:

now that seems to me like someone has bought one from another motor and used the bolt that came with it rather than the original bolt. Sad

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Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

I know, right?

So if the bolt is "loose" (ie paling its length) in it's mount, then the whole alternator would be able to "tilt" as the belts were tightened. This would result in the back belt being tighter than the front, just as is the case with mine. Yes?

I realised that if the bearings were on the way out, then the "tilt" would be only of the spindle/pulley and therefore result would be a tighter belt on the front, not the back - the opposite of my problem

andyman · Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith

There should not be any noticeable lateral side to side movement in the alternator pulley. If 1-2 mm, the central rotor would be rubbing on the outer magnets.
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Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

okay thanks - so would you say then that this might be a contributory factor?

Pagan Celt · Joined: 15 Nov 2016 Posts: 89 Location: Suffolk England

I'm wondering if a previous someone, faced with The Squeal (cause by loose bolt scenario) might have tried to fix it by overtightening the belt causing the bearing failure?

mark3 · Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 16:40 Post subject:

was there a squeal when you was out on test? if not thats why its not moved, you need for it to squeal then re check your marks... if the pulley marks still line up after its been squealing then its not the pulley...

changing the pulley is an easy job if you have the tools, i done loads and carry a spare on board (along with loads of other spares) you'll need to stop the engine from turning over to be able to torque up the bolt correctly (there is a special tool for this to make life easier which i have) if its not torqued up correctly it'll continuously be coming undone and will damage the crank shaft snout and pulley, also you can safely re use the old bolt, its a torqued bolt not a stretch bolt so can safely be e used :D

Tighten the bolt to 230NM Laughing

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