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L300 rear shocks replacement - where to buy?

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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 12:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy - yes I too thought it would be the spring providing the "bounce" and the absorber just slows it. However, Lewis, what you are saying suggests the absorbers would actually "push" the whole suspension down (or up, depending on how you look at it)? Probably just showing my ignorance here...  Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 12:57    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 13:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's before, with the old shocks:

And with the new, again:


... not much difference I can see?? hmmm
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 13:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple laws of physics.

If you have to extend the shocker to get it to fit in the same place as the original, then the spring would compress as far as it probably can before the shocker reaches the point at which it is able to absorb any force placed on it.

Rolling Eyes
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 14:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do your old shockers self - extend? Shockers do not need to spring back on their own, they only have to stop spring oscillation within 2 strokes, in either direction.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 14:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmh. I would have thought that the key is for there to be enough room for "travel" in the shock absorber in either direction and that either spring compression or extension would be dampened? Which, by looking at them in resting position on the vehicle, there seems to be? So, it needing to extend a little on fitting would only give it more room to dampen either compression or extension movement (as long as it wasn't either fully extended or compressed - which certainly wasn't the case!)?
Like I said, new to this, so quite happy to be corrected!

It was (much) harder to either compress or extend the new shocks compared to the old, but the fact that it didn't seem to move much in either direction on its own accord now puzzles (worries?) me.  :? Is there a difference in expected behaviour between gas and oil shocks?

I should stress, I'm not after altering the ride height at all (at least on the back - my comment on this was just really about the front!), but I don't want to be in a position where I'm compromising the suspension by putting in inappropriate parts!
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 14:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy - typing at the same time! Smile No the old ones did not extend on their own that all, and were quite easy to push and pull by hand, compared to the new ones which took some force.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 15:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you surmise, your springs control the ride height of your vehicle, and the basic, standard dampers as fitted do not require any spring assistance, the damping rate in extension or compression, is simply a function of the speed at which the oil can pass through holes in the baffle. Once extended to reach the mounting points, most of the oil will be above the piston baffle.On compression, it is forced through the holes in the baffle, ready for the spring to rebound. Generally, the more rapid and severe the bumps, the more the oil will heat up and lose its viscosity, meaning you will get less of a jolt over bumps. To be effective as a damper (the term "shock absorber" is really a misnomer, unless it is a combined spring and damper unit), the unit must prevent the spring from oscillating at its natural rate.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 15:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS the damper works equally in compression and rebound.
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 20:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

So perhaps slightly off-topic but only just, and I was thinking for posterity it might be useful to report what I have done in the end. I recently found that I also needed new front shocks. The bottom bush on the NSF had completely worn away, plus the whole front suspension was rattling quite badly.
Having somewhat had to eat my words re. size not being everything, I also haven't been happy with the Monroe ones I put in the back. They just felt very spongy with time, and combined with the lack of any extension whatsoever (as very quickly pointed out by Lewis!  Embarassed), I decided instead to just get a full set of gas-filled KYB shocks instead. Fitted these today.
Here's what was left of the bushing in one of the fronts. No wonder things were a bit rattle-ey:


Anyway all came off and went back on relatively quickly, although the bottom bolt of the fronts that is hiding below the driveshaft is a right pain in the **** to get to!! Evil or Very Mad
Here's some shots of the new ones on:



I was very happy to see that the front immediately looked to be sitting a bit higher after lowering her down on her wheels again. Had a drive around some potholed lanes, and my word - it really does make a difference. To be fair, I think the lumpy ride was almost entirely due to the fronts shocks, but it's all very smooth now. Really very happy, definitely worth the extra expense, although I've learnt my lesson for next time.  :D

Now, would anyone like to buy some nearly new Monro shocks?  Razz
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 21:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you jack them under the lower wishbone, they will always sit slightly higher when you first let the jack down, but will quickly resume normal ride height when you start moving. Front torsion bar adjusters are the long bolts hanging down hslf way back. Wire brush and apply WD 40 or similar, then jack wheels off the ground before adjusting. 10mm at the adjuster = about 20mm at the wheel, but you will have to let it down and roll a few feet to settle it ( as above)  to correctly check the revised ride height. Fortunately, the L300s adjuster brackets are a stronger design than the L400's, which  can readily buckle if over adjusted. If you want to lift the front much more than 30 mm, it is a good idea to re- index the torsion bars, ie move the levers  around the bar by a spline or 2. You will also need to check the steering and suspension alignment. Sorry about the Monroe's, although, as you imply, the persistent fault was really at the front. I would be interested in a ride in yours next time your are down this way, not sure if my front end is more bouncy than it should be, or if it is just diving more with its new, improved brakes!
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 23:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, should have said - it did settle by a couple of cm after the first drive around. She was at 50cm from centre of hub to wheelarch immediately after fitting the shocks, then down to 48 after a drive, which is all fine.
I had been fiddling with the torsion bars before, to see if I could remedy the height difference between front and back. From memory the front was at something like 46 and the back at 50 (this was before doing the front shocks), which was a bit more of a difference than I would like... Unfortunately the initial winding up only made the ride a lot worse, which I now think was as much due to the dodgy old shocks as due to the bars be wound higher.
Interestingly, I've not touched the bar adjusters since fitting the new shocks, and it feels great now, so I will just see how I get on. The passenger side adjuster is not far off the limit (only about a cm or so left between the adjuster arm and the subframe!), so I guess I will have to look at re-indexing if I want to go any higher.

You're more than welcome to have a play next time I am in the Pennines; possibly weekend after next? Would be interested to hear what you think. As I recall yours felt really nice and smooth last time I was in it.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 20:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll look forward to that. I think I have been lucky so far not having any suspension issues, so I guess I still have all that to look forward to!
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Yobbo



Joined: 06 Jul 2018
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Location: Hull, East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 16:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is my first post but can I chime in and say that the KYB Gas Shock Absorber Part codes are for the fronts: 344111 and for the rears 343226.

These are to date (06/07/2018) currently available from eBay seller aceparts_uk - the main product image is wrong but the proper part can be seen in the second and also in the descript lower down the page i.e. 'Top-Pin /Bottom Yoke'

I'm no luddite (should hope not, I work in IT! Shocked ) but I had a hard time trying to find the correct gas shock absorbers (jejoenje's last pic does kind of show the part no. but it's not clear).

So I hope this helps anyone who like me was spending far too much time trying to track them down!
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andyman



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 0:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Yobbo, - that's a useful supplier. I am pleased (and amazed) to say that, despite my best attempts to destroy my suspension off-roading, the original shockers are still doing their job smoothly and comfortably - for now!
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 15:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yobbo wrote:

I'm no luddite (should hope not, I work in IT! Shocked ) but I had a hard time trying to find the correct gas shock absorbers (jejoenje's last pic does kind of show the part no. but it's not clear).

Oh dear, I hadn't realised I never put the KYB part no.'s on this post. That's a shame, because had you asked I could have found you those in two minutes! Smile
Thank you for updating the thread.

I think in my case the seller was apd_car_parts, but just typing those part no's give you a choice of several sellers.

Anyway, they're good those - no complaints  so far, and they've now been on for nearly 18 months...
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Yobbo



Joined: 06 Jul 2018
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Location: Hull, East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 16:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries guys!

My L300 Exceed had Bilsteins on it of all things, but one of the mounting pins on the rears snapped completely so it effectively flapping in the wind!
Not an issue as the van is on SORN at the moment, but I always wondered why the ride felt so crashy haha!
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Yobbo



Joined: 06 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a nightmare trying to get the rears and had to source one each from different eBay sellers after about 4 goes - I was told that the supplier may not be getting any back in stock!
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16291
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 10:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit surprised on difficulty in sourcing these as they are available under several part numbers, from different suppliers.

Front (MB584688) https://spareto.co.uk/oe/mitsubishi-mb584688

Rear (MB339213) https://spareto.co.uk/oe/mitsubishi-mb339213

HTH
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Yobbo



Joined: 06 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 12:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Lewis,

My fault for relying on evilBay!

Dave
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 15:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't really think its you, Yobbo - evilBay can be great for sourcing stuff, but you need to know what you are looking for exactly.  Smile  I found it took me some time to find my way around various websites etc to get a hang of identifying part numbers. Once you have those, usually Google or evilBay will give you something.
This forum is definitely great for finding stuff out, as is the FB group (at least it was while I still had my account!).

I've found MegaZip a really useful resource, as it has a pictoral catalogue of parts for the different makes/specs of Delica. Mine is here:
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/mitsubishi/Delica-star-wagon-9344/p35w-19993/hsnpt2-624847
But you can find other models/specs as well - if you just go to the "root" web page and look for Mitsi, Japan (if its JDM), then Delica Star Wagon, etc.

I'm sure some forum members will shortly be around that you can find some "official" Mitsi parts catalogue somewhere I didn't know about but at least simple me has found the above useful. Wink
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