Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

Green Grouch

While Changing my timing chain with a split link one , and cutting a long story short - the slack end (Right end side) has fallen in to the engine.
Not Good
I had a bit of string tied on but that's snapped so as you can see I'm in trouble

I'm thinking I'm going to have to do it the old way. I have tried hooking it out but the tensioner guide on the right has moved to the left and pretty much locked solid so I can't really get down there.

Not sure why this has done this ?

Regarding doing it the old way, is there a quick guide as to what has to come off to get to it all.

I can put the hours in but would be good to find out roughly what I'm taking off before I start

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skiorsail · Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 758 Location: Cumbria

thats really bad luck , added some hours to the job , if you Can't get the end of the chain wit coat hanger wire or magnet you are stuck with the tedious job i recall taking off intercooler/radiator /crankshaft pulley /watrerpump /steering pump /vaccum pump - lots of different length bolts plus one nut hopefully someone will come up with right picture from manual . use good quality sealant and it shouldn`t leak . one of my guides was badly worn so replaced it
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Delica chamonix PE8W 96.love at first sight.
Delica jasper PE8W 96 -green outside yellow inside - prev owner died smoke inhalation ?
plus Deli chamonix 2-at the price of a few months fuel who can resist. Plus toyota celica.

Green Grouch · Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 18:42 Post subject:

Cheers - The main thing that is confusing me is that the tensioner guide is locked to the left now but I'm thinking that by looking at some pictures from the manuals that the chain is jamming it up at the bottom so may be ill have to wind it back the other way and hope.

what I was more after is what sort of ancillarys have to come off - eg radiator, waterpump etc. I'm thinking I will be taking quite a lot off !!!

v8 rick · Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 18:58 Post subject:

Green Grouch · Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 19:58 Post subject:

Cheers Rick

That's what I was after. - It was going quite smoothly. that will teach me to use cheap garden string.

Diver · Joined: 28 Apr 2011 Posts: 1054 Location: Welney

Green Grouch · Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:44 Post subject:

Yep !! I see where you were coming from though.. !

thecaptain · Joined: 01 Aug 2012 Posts: 157 Location: North Dorset

Mine was dropped three times - get the tensioner out the way and get the wire coat hanger out!

Green Grouch · Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 0:34 Post subject:

Green Grouch · Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 22:51 Post subject:

mark3 · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:14 Post subject:

Look in the hole where the chain goes and you will see the bolt heads in the front corners. It's NOT the two front main head bolts.
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Lewis · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:46 Post subject:

This piccy shows the chain on the cog with the head removed. You can see the bolt holes.

One is obvious on the upper face of the casting, the other, on the opposite side inside the rectangular hole, is just in front of the chain guide and bolts direct into the timing case cover.

HTH
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Green Grouch · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 19:28 Post subject:

Does anyone no the part number for the rectangular shaped o ring that is on the inside of the chain cover behind the waterpump ?

I've found these two in the part numbers section but still not sure.

MH035529 - O-ring (thermostat housing chain cover) - £2.88
ME200414 - O-ring (water pump to chain cover) - £5.09

I've sat down in the mitsi dealers this afternoon and even he couldn't find out what it was looking at the software ??

Green Grouch · Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 16:38 Post subject: Timing Again ?

Anyone who has read my last posts will know I dropped the timing chain in the engine. Not Good

I'm now at the stage of putting it all back again

See Photo
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b590/andyphotos7/DSC_0470_zps5001686a.jpg

I've got the cam shaft out so I can wind everything by hand to get it all lined up.

I'm aware of getting Tdc on number 1 and then getting the dowel at 12 o clock but when cranking the crankshaft its obvious that it all cycles twice and certain gears like the fuel pump take two revolutions to get back to the same position.

I May be thinking too much into it all but I've read loads of posts and 1 said he wound something like 87 times to get everything to line up.

I was hoping that it would be a simple case of getting TdC and sticking the cam shaft back in correctly and job done

The fuel pump gear has a dot on it which does not seem toline up with anything.

Any help would be much appreciated.

v8 rick · Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 20:54 Post subject:

problem is you need to turn the engine a great many times to get all the marks on the timing gears aligned, so don't bother Wink

turn the engine to no1 tdc and look for a small notch on the pump drive gear it should be aligned to the "N" mark on the pump casing ( i.e the lower of the two marks ) then just fit the cam with the dowel at 12 oclock and bobs ya teapot mate Wink

.
there no need at all to faff trying to get all the gears to line up, it`ll take you forever Smile

.

rick.
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Green Grouch · Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 23:05 Post subject:

Cheers Again Rick !

I sort of knew it would be something like that but needed someone to hold my hand !!
I've been turning it all round for an hour or so and looking at it all and reading this and that post and just getting confused double thinking everything!

I'm normally quite good at this sort of thing - once I've broken it first that is ! -

Everyones probably heard it all before but without this forum I would not have a Delica

I think I will have to be a lifetime member next payday

Cheers

Green Grouch · Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 13:55 Post subject:

Cheers for all the help with this problem guys. I've now got her back together and she started on the button and runs so much better !
There is however 1 problem !
As mentioned before I was stuck with obtaining a rectangle O ring which goes between the rear of the waterpump in the timing case.

http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b590/andyphotos7/DSC_0470_zps50aac33c.jpg

Low and behold I've got a tiny coolant leak there now

The guy in the mitsi parts shop could not find the part and said it does not exist and I've looked at the software myself and complete gasket sets and there does not appear to be 1 there ?

I'm sure the old one was not sealant as it was too neat but some people are saying that sealant should do it

Any help again on this would be most appreciated

YOZA · Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 16:07 Post subject:

Green Grouch · Posted: Sun May 04, 2014 19:41 Post subject:

Cheers Yoza

I've played with that silkaflex before. Its pretty sturn stuff .

Sadly its take all apart again but at least I know how to do it now and I know it will work again this time !

Its such a tiny leak but needs to be done again. I don't want to risk trying to seal it with anything

The old timing chain was nearly 10mm longer , not sure if that's really bad but it does run much better.

jgupte · Joined: 31 Jul 2009 Posts: 133 Location: Sydney, Australia

My chain was about 15 mm (one link) longer by the time I got around to changing it! And it ran much better after the change.
I think the water pump needs to be changed as a unit. My pump was leaking, but not from the seal between the pump and block, rather an internal seal? Water was leaking out the little drain hole on the bottom. I looked but could not see any seal to change to fix the problem. Had to change the whole pump (which came with a seal for between the pump and block). Only cost me £75 on eBay.

Cheers,

JG
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The Pirate Bus
1996 L400 Series 1, LWB, 2.8 TD, 7 seat, Crystalite Roof, MMCS, two airbags,

Fitted: Aircon Shield, Bash Plate, Unifilter air filter
To be fitted: Reversing camera, Driving Lights
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