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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 22:32 Post subject: L300 Radiator Removal and Replacement |
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Hi All,
Quick guide to replacing the radiator on an L300 (manual 1988)
1. First remove the drivers seat (4 bolts, 12mm socket)
2. Remove floor pan beneath seat.
Have a read of this thread - but you do not need to remove the handbrake or fuel filler release.
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20067
Let the handbrake off (chock the wheels first!) then remove all the bolts from the floor panel as described in Bruce's thread and move the panel gently to one side enough so the radiator can be lifted out.
Note the awkward bolt under the bonnet hinge area - had to use a spanner
3. Drain the radiator - there should be a drain screw/tap bottom passenger side. Remove radiator cap to allow it to flow quicker.
4. undo the bottom and top hoses from the radiator - mine had jubilee clips with bolt heads 10mm socket.
5. remove the pipe from the filler cap to the expansion tank
6. remove the round cowling - this has a screw and clip top middle to remove first, then rotate the two parts of the cowling away from each other and they will come out of the clips. jiggle them out around the fan.
7. Remove the bolt holding the top middle of the radiator. 12mm socket. catch the rubber bushes as you'll need these!
You should now be able to lift the radiator up and out now.
Make a cuppa.
8. Remove the other part of the cowling from the old radiator and fit it to the new one. Note my old radiator had studs attached, new one had threaded holes, so needed to find four bolts to attach it the cowl(M4 size I think)
Also swap the two rubber bushes on the bottom of the raditor and re-attach any cable clips / pipe clips (mine had one, I forgot, !)
9. Before you fit the new radiator - fill it with water and check for leaks/damage...just in case.
10. Follow steps 7->4 in reverse to fit radiator.
11. Fill with 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and run the engine up to circulate with the radiator cap off at first for a minute or so.
Boil the kettle on
Turn the engine off, top up again, and half fill the expansion chamber, put the radiator cap on. Run the engine til warm and check for leaks.
Make tea and stare at rust while the engine warms up.
12. All good? put the floor back, and the seat, check for any tools or debris in the engine bay, go for a spin. Then leave to cool and check the levels again in the morning.
Have I missed anything? (yes you could include flushing the engine, replacing the belts and water pump etc.etc...but it was cold! _________________ The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
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Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 22:32 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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BFG
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 340 Location: Exmouth, Devon, UK
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Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 23:12 Post subject: |
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Great write up! Just what I needed as I have mine to do.
Only extra steps I'm gonna take is to run Holts Rad flush through then drain system and then flush for 15-20 mins with water hose and will probably replace thermastat. _________________ K Reg Mitsubishi Delica Star Wagon 2.5T D.
Dreaming of what MOD to do next! |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16296 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:15 Post subject: |
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Nice one - stickied it. :D _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16296 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 15:42 Post subject: |
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What spelling ?
You won't need to search for it, as it is now a sticky it will always be near the top of the forum for others to find. _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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ciaran15
Joined: 23 Mar 2010 Posts: 225 Location: Omagh
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 10:51 Post subject: |
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Great stuff man good job |
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BarefootBennett
Joined: 01 Sep 2015 Posts: 178 Location: Barnsley
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Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:48 Post subject: |
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So is there a current best replacement for the radiator as the one I have I at the moment looks like it needs replacing and I might as well put the best I can back in while it's getting done. Not sure if I read somewhere about the L200 pick ups being a good un? |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 18:41 Post subject: |
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If yours has the auto box, you will need the auto radiator, which has 2 small pipes coming out the bottom as it also cools the atf. Dunno about L200 rad, I would be surprised if it fits. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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BarefootBennett
Joined: 01 Sep 2015 Posts: 178 Location: Barnsley
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 13:49 Post subject: |
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So just a standard rad is sufficient, no recommended upgrades ? |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 18:55 Post subject: |
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Mine is the original, all metal, - copper? More durable and repairable than plastic/aluminium, but undoubtedly the more expensive construction. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 18:56 Post subject: |
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PS Why do you think yours needs replacing? _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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BarefootBennett
Joined: 01 Sep 2015 Posts: 178 Location: Barnsley
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 19:26 Post subject: |
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It might not do, my mate mentioned that "it's a bit sorry looking and full o shit" so I thought if there was a good upgrade that wasn't too expensive I'd stick one in. Otherwise it will just be taken off n cleaned out. |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 19:57 Post subject: |
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If it didn't boil over, burst or lose a worrying amount of coolant on your 70mph dash home, I don't reckon there's much wrong with it that an internal flushing and an external brushing won't solve! You can afford to lose 10% of your cooling fins through disintegration, as long as the cooling tubes aren't compromised. Plastic ages and goes brittle, the pipe spigots can snap off, not a problem with copper, although it can corrode, but it can be soldered. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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jo0lz
Joined: 07 Apr 2004 Posts: 908 Location: Wirral
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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 23:30 Post subject: |
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THe original rads come with puny sized pipes in the core
and so clog really easy
Also auto's have the ATF cooling pipes running through the bottom tank on the rad
SO when I replaced mine I gone the original rad recored
using the existing top and bottom tanks
and as FAT a new core as the guy could get to fit the original tanks |
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