Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[tauntondeli]

Hi there,

was wondering if anyone knows where I can get a new exhaust manifold and egr valve for my Delica?? Have snapped one of studs off when trying to fiddle with blanking plate and have decided to bite the bullet and replace it and go back to an egr valve. Can't find where to buy either parts though?


Any ideas much appreciated.

[Google]

[chrisreah]

type "Delica breaking" in to ebay - or go to your local mitsubishi dealer?

[tauntondeli]

Have tried eBay, but nothing local to me, local dealer wanted £195 for an expansion bottle so am trying to avoid them!!! May have to try them if nothing else comes up!

[chrisreah]

postage shouldn't be awful. Failing that I am driving back from heathrow area next Friday night. Happy to grab the bits if you can find them from a seller near the route

[Deker]

You may find removing the manifold leads to tears, almost impossible without removing cylinder head.
Never a good idea on Aluminium engines. Unless it is absolutely necessary.

See my post/s in member2member services. In one of them you'll find my phone No.

I specialise in broken stud/bolt removal.

At first glance this may seem a mad idea, but think about it -
Drive up to my place, I should be able to/will drill out the broken bolt.
Make and fit a blanking plate.

Why do you want a new EGR valve    what they do is admit some exhaust gas into the combustion chamber to reduce the ignition temperature, this = lower combustion pressure = less power = more fuel usage.
But it does reduce Nitreous Oxide emission.

Done a quicky calculation based on your Deli doing average MPG, would cost you £65 round trip.
Could work out a lot cheaper than buying parts, and a lot quicker.

If need, you could camp one night on me driveway.

Deker.

[keith1976]

the same thing just happened to me  

I was going about fitting a simple EGR blanking plate kit, when during removal of the original valve assembly one of the studs in the exhaust manifold snapped off under pretty low torque. I wasn't even forcing it. Anyway, now I've left with only one stud which won't hold the blanking plate down hard enough to seal it. Exhaust fumes clearly escape, which I imagine isn't safe, also turbo won't work properly. On closer inspection, it looks like the exhaust manifold clamping face is also totally corroded. I doubt very much it had been sealing properly.

So now I'm not sure what to do... even if I can find someone to drill out or remove the broken stud I doubt the blaking plate will seal unless I can find a high-temperature filler. The 'dimples' in the exhaust manifold look 1-2mm, so pretty big.

any ideas? I imagine it would be best to remove the exhaust manifold but this could be a nightmare if more bolts snap off.
Does anyone know of a high temperature filler material that will take lots of heat & pressure?

[v8 rick]

I've removed scores of L400 2.8 exhaust manifolds without any problems whatsoever , the manifold / downpipe flange bolts are usually pretty tight but a soak in wd40 or similar and 1/2 drive 6 sided socket always free`s them , touchwood and up to now I've never had a stud break when taking a manifold off i don't really see an issues at all taking it off and drilling out the broken stud   .

rick.
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[albideli]

I've always found the manifolds come off easy too, the alternative in situ isweld a nut onto the thread,place a washer over the thread, then a nut,weld the nut to the top of whats left of the stud and the combination of heat will help the stud come out.

[urbanboar]

Hi tauntondeli,

       As Decker wrote    "Why do you want a new EGR valve    what they do is admit some exhaust gas into the combustion chamber to reduce the ignition temperature, this = lower combustion pressure = less power = more fuel usage.
But it does reduce Nitreous Oxide emission.

  X2
 
       Just smooth out the manifolrd where the brokeh stud is and seal it with the blanking plate permenantly. Save the $ for something else.

Urbanboar

[keith1976]

thanks everyone for your replies! I'm new to MDOCUK and very impressed with the response  :D

okay, I think I'll have a go at removing the exhaust manifold.
I don't have access to welding gear, and in any case I think I'll need to re-grind the flange face on the manifold back flat because the previous gasket seems to have been leaking and the gases have eaten their way out sideways. I imagine drilling/ grinding / welding will be a lot easier with the manofold off and on a workbench.

Will keep you posted, might also post some photos.

[keith1976]

okay, I took the heat shield off the exhaust manifold then gave up. I simply can't get to all the bolts to remove the manifold so I thought best to stop before I do more damage.

Here are some photos of my problem

[url=Photos]Web Page Name[/url]

I think I'll drive slowly round to a few garages and machine-shops to see if anyone can weld a nut to the broken stud... or drill it out. But it looks very short and stubby.

[YOZA]

I took my inlet and exhaust manifold off a couple of weeks back, its is time consuming but not difficult.

see here.
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=39588

If that was my truck I would heat up the stud and take it out with a pair of mole grips, or if I had time I would cut a slot in the top of the broken stud heat it up and then take it out with a screwdriver bit on a ratchet.

I almost 'want' to do it, I wish you were nearer.
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Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity....

[keith1976]

did you manage to remove the exhaust manifold with the engine still in the engine bay? I can't see how to reach the bolts on the exhaust port towards the rear. I also can't imagine how I'd get enough torque on a spanner to loosen the 3 rusty nuts on the turbo flange. It's all heavily rusted and very awkward to reach... I'm taking it to a mechanic tomorrow to see if they can remove the manifold, maybe it's time to spend some hard earned cash  

[Diver]

Seems like a lot of expense and hassle for a broken stud Keith. Why not just remove it or drill it out and put a nut and bolt through?
Also, on your photos, is that the gasket still in place?

[albideli]

Theres not enough height to get a drill straight through, but you have enough stud protruding to weld a nut on there, go to a good engineering shop, most garages won't\Can't weld good enough to attempt it, they'll want to get the manifold off and I reckon the manifold to turbo bolts will go the same way, welding a nut on will also create enough heat to break the stud free from the thread.

[Diver]

I've got a right angled drill that would have enough room. And if I didn't, I'd buy one rather than take the manifold off!  

Can't really see on the photo properly, but is there any chance these 1-2mm 'dimples' are the gasket rather than the manifold itself?

[Deker]

[keith1976]

Hi Deker, I forgot to say, my local mechanic heated the bolt and managed to twist it out on his 4th attempt (phew!) we then drove the van to Croatia over the summer and had a fantastic holiday  :D
Without the egr valve I notice less smoke when I accelerate hard... but no noticeable improvement on mpg.

[gnomebase]

If it is just one stud, you can often get away with not having a nut on it, strange as it may seem.

[MrSparko]

I know this is an incredibly old thread but hoping some of the members are still active! Does anyone know if the studs are pressed straight in or if there is a thread all the way through?

Just wondering how to attack it! Because if I weld a nut onto the remaining thread there is no point trying to ratchet it out if its pressed straight in etc

Cheers!!