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Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™
Mitsubishi Delica L300, L400 and D:5 Owners Club
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Fiddlesticks
Joined: 04 Aug 2009
Posts: 125
Location: Liverpool
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 Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 22:24 Post subject: Changing the Diff and ATF fluids. |
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Hi,
Just a note of appreciation to previous posters who've documented (and added pictures) changing the ATF and diff oil. I finally got around to doing mine today.
Found the front diff. fill plug a pain to get to. Ended up going back to the shop to get a 600mm breaker bar. (I tried half-removing the ratchet and universal joint from the socket and inserting a spanner, but only suceeded in breaking the spanner  )
Anyway - kit used:
1/2" square drive ratchet
1/2" drive universal joint
600mm breaker bar
24mm socket
(plus sockets to remove bash plates)
rhino flexi bucket double-lined with bin bags to catch oil (tie up the bags and take the whole lot to the tip afterwards - no mess!)
Hozelock killaspray *
* FWIW I would not attempt this job again without this last item - I only dug it out of the cupboard after getting myself covered in oil trying to refill an old diff oil bottle and squirting it into the rear diff. The killaspray was so much easier, especially on the front diff, and later for the ATF fluid where a) pouring uphill is notoriously tricky and b) dribbling thick oil down a long pipe is boring.
There seems to be lots of information on here about diff oils etc. In the end I opted for:
2 x Comma MV Automatic Transmission and Power Steering Fluid - 5L (CO-MVATF5L)
1 x Comma EP80W-90 GL5 Gear Oil - 5 Litres (CO-EP80905L)
Total £71.47 from Wilco Direct
I found that 5L of gear oil was exactly the right amount for front, rear and middle diffs. I think I drained and refilled the ATF three times (I was losing count by that point). Each time I'd refill to the full mark on the dipstick, have a bit of a drive (cycling through the gears) and do it agian.
Now all I've got to do is drill out the nut from the back of the bash plate that I managed to over-tighten and snap in the process.  There's always something, isn't there!
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| Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 22:24 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Lewis
Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16299
Location: Huddersfield
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| Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:52 Post subject: Re: Changing the Diff and ATF fluids. |
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| Fiddlesticks wrote: |
Hozelock killaspray *
* FWIW I would not attempt this job again without this last item - I only dug it out of the cupboard after getting myself covered in oil trying to refill an old diff oil bottle and squirting it into the rear diff. The killaspray was so much easier, especially on the front diff, and later for the ATF fluid where a) pouring uphill is notoriously tricky and b) dribbling thick oil down a long pipe is boring. |
I've found getting myself a 24mm offset spanner and a 500ml Oil sucker takes less than 5 mins to fill the front diff (Once the bashplate is off).  :- Though if you don't have an offset spanner a 24mm socket and U/V joint
will do:-
Although the spanner set was £25+VAT, there are 24 different bolt head sizes in it and the oil sucker was only £6 +VAT.
| Fiddlesticks wrote: |
There seems to be lots of information on here about diff oils etc. In the end I opted for:
2 x Comma MV Automatic Transmission and Power Steering Fluid - 5L (CO-MVATF5L)
1 x Comma EP80W-90 GL5 Gear Oil - 5 Litres (CO-EP80905L)
Total £71.47 from Wilco Direct
I found that 5L of gear oil was exactly the right amount for front, rear and middle diffs. I think I drained and refilled the ATF three times (I was losing count by that point). Each time I'd refill to the full mark on the dipstick, have a bit of a drive (cycling through the gears) and do it agian. |
I hope you didn't use the 80W/90 in the centre diff, as that requires GL-4 75W/80 oil.
See the 'Tech FAQS' Service Tech Data - Fluid Capacities post here:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=248
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Last edited by Lewis on Mon Jun 26, 2017 16:32; edited 1 time in total |
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Fiddlesticks
Joined: 04 Aug 2009
Posts: 125
Location: Liverpool
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| Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 18:51 Post subject: |
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75W90?
Is there really that much difference unless you're in extremely cold temperatures? |
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MrBin
Lifetime member
Joined: 19 Jan 2008
Posts: 280
Location: Southsea
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| Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 20:07 Post subject: |
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| Fiddlesticks wrote: |
75W90?
Is there really that much difference unless you're in extremely cold temperatures? |
My personal opinion (and the "Google Consensus") is there isn't.
What I do wonder about is putting GL5 oil in when GL4 oil is specified. As Lewis pointed out in another thread some (most ?) GL5 spec gear oils are high in Sulphur compounds, which over time (how much time ? No idea) become acidic and can attack "Yellow" metal components. Is there any yellow metal in the Deli transfer box ? I wouldn't panic over it as it will take time for the oil to acidify,but probably best to be cautious until we know for sure GL5 is okay. Although as Mitsi spec GL5 for the diff and GL4 for the transfer box perhaps they know something, or it could just be a cost thing, making hundreds of thousands of vehicles a saving of a few quid on a lower, but adequate, spec oil will mount up. Too many questions. :?
While reading up on the GL5/GL4 issue I have discovered that GL5 oils can deal with much higher stresses than GL4 and is why they are often specified in diffs. It does lead me to wonder if the prevalence of whiney Delica diffs is due to GL4 being used at some point even though Mitsi specify GL5 for the diff ? |
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Fiddlesticks
Joined: 04 Aug 2009
Posts: 125
Location: Liverpool
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| Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 21:15 Post subject: |
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I think that sums it up quite nicely.
I think I was persuaded by this thread:
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=19618
.. but, like you say, the key thing is whether there are any bronze/brass parts in the centre diff. (in which case GL5 would appear to be a no-no).
Hmph. Might get one of those nice spanners Lewis mentions and put some GL4 in next time round if we haven't turned anything up by then. |
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Lewis
Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16299
Location: Huddersfield
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| Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:14 Post subject: |
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| Fiddlesticks wrote: |
| .. but, like you say, the key thing is whether there are any bronze/brass parts in the centre diff. (in which case GL5 would appear to be a no-no). |
I doubt there will be Bronze or Brass parts, other than possible brass oil seals or copper pressure washers, but it's more a case of if any of the components, shown below, such as the bearings have phosphor bronze coatings to reduce friction and improve wear and fatigue for longer life. Hopefully someone like Chiefie or Spanners (Miysi Mechanics) who may have stripped down the units can advise on that! :D
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Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
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