Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[richw32]

hi
can any one have a look at my Deli who lives near or in sheffield as i have some problems with the engine and I'm so much at a loss , i don't want to go buying lots of parts to start eliminating things ,

she don't have any power for hills or even slight hills!!!!!!!!
she has plenty of power in 1st then thats your lot,

when stopping sometimes the revs waver dip then drop,
had a service and still no luck.........

need help asap pleeeesssse

[Google]

[steve b]

Try a fuel filter first, then check out your fuel lines for sucking in air, air filter next, but it does sound like a fuel problem, hth  

[richw32]

done air and fuel filter......


it does seem a bit better when i drive with the at button on power???????  but not a lot

[Duracell Bunny]

Well........... I'm in hoyland, near to barnsley just a bit lower at J36.........

I'm no expert, but i have had my share of "a few little niggles"........  

We could maybe meet up or something, go for drive , look at a few things...........

But not today!!!!!

It's the bosses birthday, Got sick/dieing kid at home, it's bleedin cold, i have a some problems myself, got decorating to do/finish,

My God.............. The list is Endless..........        

But......... I will come and give my bit if you would like..........

Roger........ :D  :D
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[richw32]

hi that would be grate full ,

if you give me your post code and adress i can call round to yours say sundayif thats okay or any daytime really as i work nights,

thanks again

ps i just finished my decorating lol

[chrisfoster1971]

have you done tank filter?

are you running straight diesel ?
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100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album

[Duracell Bunny]

Hiya....

I'll Pm you my details...........

:D  :D  :D
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**  Sadly, now with the Great Delica Owner in the Sky
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[richw32]

didn't know there was a filter in the tank

oh yes white derv for me , after the last Deli went tits up on some iffy stuff i was running these fuel pumps are fragile lol


is it big job for the tank filter

[chrisfoster1971]

once the bash plates are off it is only four bolts 14mm I beleive and a couple of pipe clips to drop it down....don't forget the fuel gauge sender ! like I did

The 8mm nuts to remove the pickup pipe to clean the fine gauze which you can remove from the pipe and give it a good going over.


BTW the pump are bullet proof to be honest. they will run pretty much anything just when they go they go......sometimes big time.

HTH

small stacker boxes come in handy to drain the fuel into from the bolt on the base of the fuel tank BTW
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100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album

[Lewis]

Note there is a fuel drain plug at the rear end of the tank under the bash plate and the filler pipe end has a non return valve built into it.

Tank removed:-



Fuel Guage sender unit unplugs by pressing in the small clip on the plug:-



Sender unit:-



Non return valve:-



Filter unit:-



Check the breather, on top of the tank, is not blocked with mud etc:-



HTH
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[chrisfoster1971]

Pictures say a thousand words...
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100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album

[richw32]

cheers lewis, those pics are spot on mate but...

duracell bunny seems to think its a problem with the bus not changing gear ?

its fine at low speed but under load ie going up hills off any kind it holds back a lot and won't change also causingover fueling hence causing the cutting out , does this make sence to you as you seem very upto speed on the Deli..........
i called a  man about getting her looked at and he advised on an oil change and filters changed in the auto box as this can also cause these symptpons i have first

he asked if the Delica had a diagnostic plug where it can be pluged into a computer, i don't  know if they do? do they?

thanks for your help

[chrisfoster1971]

In that case I'd change the fluid in the box, if you are in sheffield the Hyundai dealer in Ecclesfield has the right type of gearbox oil ATF SP+II works out more expensive  (£5 per litre from memory of which you'll need 9 litres but only use 8.5 )than ATF+4 which some of the guys use but is still cheaper than the real stuff from Mitsi

There is a diagnostic socket which is under the steering column but I'm not sure how much info you'll get out of it, after all they aren't new motors are they !

Also the TPS could have something to do with it which is does have something to do with the gears changing etc, I'd check out some of the threads on here for TPS and gearbox oil changes and see what you think. TPS will not cost you anything to do and you'll only need a multimeter and the gearbox oil is the only thing to cost, just avoid Dexron II as it appears to cause issues with the boxes according to some threads on the AUS site.

Hope that helps.
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100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album

[Lewis]

Check the 10Amp fuse for the Auto Transmission Electronic Control, marked ELC-4, on the fuse panel located under the dash to the right of the steering wheel. Also (for future use) note that the 'Ciggy' socket fuse is also used for the door mirror heaters (where fitted):-



Note the white plastic item sticking out of the fuse box which is a tweezer type fuse extractor tool.



Changing the Autobox Fluid (ATF) is a good thing as having a thinner / fresher lubricant in there will allow smoother gear changes and so reduce the amount of heat build up in there.

As Chris says the TPS will more than likely need adjusting. By lowering the time at which the gears are changed up you will cut down on the amount of 'hunting' the gearbox ECU will do to get the right gear, which also reduces the heat buildup in the autobox.

Ignore the mechanics advice regarding the Autobox filter, its unlikely to be the cause of the problem and like the fuel tank filter very rarely gets clogged up.  If it was an issue for maintenance Mitsubishi would have probably incorporated a filter into the oil lines to the cooler, which is the bottom section of the front radiator.

As Chris advises the ECU Diagnostic Connector (MUT) is located under the dash panel to the left of the steering wheel, next to the footrest, as per the piccy below.



I took mine in to my Local Mitsi service agent to have a computer analysis done and they charged me £84. The invoice states on it:-

"4 Wheel Drive Fault, connected to MUT to read fault codes, unable to communicate"  

That is due to the UK Mitsubishi dealers not being supplied the required software on their computer systems for 'Grey import' vehicles.

However there is a way to read the fault codes by using the vehicle dashboard A/T warning light and a bit of wire with a crocodile clip on one end. The gearbox computer stores errors so you don't have to do this at the time of the problem. Its memory is reset by disconnecting the battery, which will also have the additional affect of returning the gear changing back to its default setting until it adjusts to your method of driving.

To get the error codes do the following

- Turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition
- Connect pin 1 to the metal chassis, with a length of wire
- Start the engine as usual
- The dash will light up as usual and the warning lights will all go off
- After going out like a normal start the A/T light will begin a sequence of flashing on and off (error codes)
- A long flashes indicates 10's. Short flashes indicates 1. (So for an error code of 11 you get one long and one short flash)
- It may give more than one error code, these are separated by a short pause, otherwise it will just keep cycling through and repeat the codes again.


DTC                          Probable Cause
11  ........................  Defective TP Sensor Or TP Sensor Circuit
15  ........................  Open Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit
16  ........................  Short Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit
21  ........................  Short Ignition Signal Circuit
22  ........................  Open Ignition Signal Circuit
23  ........................  Open Signal Line (ECT) From ECM To TCM
24  ........................  Short Signal Line (ECT) From ECM To TCM
29  ........................  Short Neutral Safety Switch Circuit
30  ........................  Open Neutral Safety Switch Circuit
31  ........................  Open No. 2 Speed Sensor Circuit
32  ........................  Open No. 1 Speed Sensor Circuit
41  ........................  Open Solenoid No. 1 Circuit
42  ........................  Short Solenoid No. 1 Circuit
43  ........................  Open Solenoid No. 2 Circuit
44  ........................  Short Solenoid No. 2 Circuit
47  ........................  Open Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit
48  ........................  Short Lock-up Solenoid Circuit
49  ........................  (2) Torque Converter Clutch Engagement Malfunction
50  ........................  (2) Torque Converter Clutch Disengagement Malfunction
51  ........................  1st Gear Ratio Signal Incorrect
52  ........................  2nd Gear Ratio Signal Incorrect
53  ........................  3rd Gear Ratio Signal Incorrect
54  ........................  4th Gear Ratio Signal Incorrect

Its quite probable that you will get code 11, the Mitsubishi engineer said this was normal in almost every vehicle tested and not to worry about it.

HTH
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Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス

[richw32]

wow

cheers mate ,now thats some reply thanks again but all that about fault codes is too much for me

any one near me fancy having a go at a bit of fault reading

cheers again

[chrisfoster1971]

I knew someone ( more than likely Lewis ) would be able to help.

seriously though I'd do the box fluid and the tps, then disconnect the battery to reset ecu then go for a drive.

You never know, it could solve that possible lack of power.


Just one thought though what mode do you have your AT in ?? HOLD/PWR or standard ? I find if I an in HOLD it doesn't have a lot of power on hills, but this is mainly used if we have our heavy caravan on the back when we are approaching a hill, I just flick the switch over to POWER or standard and normal service is resumed until the next hill.
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100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album

[richw32]

its on standard all the time,
other day i put it on power it was bit better but not much and still slow on hills and cut out at top off hill???

ill do the oil in box and as them to check the tps

[chrisfoster1971]

Sounds like what I was having and it ended up being a leak in the fuel filter housing due to the water seperator at the bottom bottom out on the metal of the filter housing before it had sealed now that was a factory Mitsi part and an after market Framm, as soon as I swapped it back to a Boshi bottom "O" ring everything got a whole lot better.

Have you changed your filter recently ?
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100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album

[richw32]

yes i have just to see if that was the problem but its been getting slower and slower going up hills and now keeps cutting out to boot

[chrisfoster1971]

I'd be tempted to get an inline filter and see if you are getting any bubbles either that or if you know someone with a vacum tester you could plug one end and vacuum test the fuel lines and see if they fail
_________________
100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment

My Delica Album