View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Marc Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 1495 Location: Brighton
|
Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 21:28 Post subject: Brake Caliper Slider bolts *WARNING* Please Read |
|
|
Right guys and gals read through a few different posts and I've noticed on a couple that people when reasembling the brake caliper slider bolts they have smeared them with copper slip,if you have done this then REMOVE it ASAP the slip can in fact (and does) cause the slider to seize solid and if your not lucky enough to unseize it will lead to a new carrier or caliper,below is a quote from a mitsubishi mechanic (who is a member here and at our sister site pocuk) who also worked for lockhead for 5 yrs,i would hate to see anyone having repiared the motor and put copper ease/slip on there sliders only for them to seize solid and cause numerous problems,
Ivor Green wrote: |
Not standing on anyones toes , but the best lube for calliper slides is Rubber lube , it comes in tins or small satchet's always but always remember if you are going to remove the callipers to clean and remove the small rubber bellows that ascs as a guide for the calliper slide , if yuo insert a drill a litte smaller than the calliper slide and rotate it a bit with fingers only yuo can remove or loosen a lot of the copper slip the mindless idiots have used in the past , then a quick blast with some WD 40 or the like will wash it out , now get a thin electrical screw driver witn a litte bit of thin cloth wound around it and remove the last of the dirt , now apply a bit of rubber lube to the screw driver and force it into the guide hole , a small quantity applited to the inner working diameter of the bellows and refit , now when reasembeling a small amount on the slide pin as yuo refit it and yuo will be well and truly protected from the road dirt and grime thrown at it , and at the same time putting it back to howe it should be , oh and remember Copper slip is for metal working faces , ie backs of pads and contact points only .
AS I say not standing on feet I worked for Lockheed for 5 years I have seen so many DIY mistakes all with the best of intentions , that it worries me so see how simple mistakes cost money and could cost a life .
I have a saying , if yuo run out of Engine oil yuo stop , If yuo run out of Brakes yuo don't . well yuo do, yuo can end up in a 6 feet pine box .
please please be carefull when working with brakes
|
Like i say I've seen a few posts where people have done there brakes and some where they have reasembled after other non brake work and have used copper slip,so if you have my advice would be change it asap,
Reason for me posting this??? changed the pads on me dads paj today and encountered 2 seized slider pins both of which had been reasembled with copper slip or something remarkably like it,and ivors post sprung to mind after i had unseized them and used some silicone grease to reasemble ,oh yes you can also use silicone grease as well with no adverse effects.
Marc _________________ 2.8 L400 Delica EXCEED
Nothing within any of my posts or info from this site may be reproduced anywhere without permission ©
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Google Sponsor
|
Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 21:28 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
nigmill
Joined: 16 Oct 2005 Posts: 103 Location: powys wales
|
Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 19:50 Post subject: |
|
|
had that happen to me on an old yam don't use it now thanks m8 for the worning m8 all the same. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Pom De Kiwi
Joined: 02 Sep 2006 Posts: 30 Location: South Coast
|
Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 18:23 Post subject: |
|
|
And this is the very reason i joined this forum.
Many thanks for the advice guys as I'm about to check my brakes before our trip to holland next month.
Pom De Kiwi
Blue over silver with baseball cap. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mrleonard
Joined: 04 Jun 2006 Posts: 10 Location: Hull
|
Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 14:14 Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for the tip, i'm about to do a brake service in the near future too!!!. _________________ Mark,sarah,amber and brendon
Green over grey L400
Lets off road!.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
gduffydc
Joined: 09 Mar 2005 Posts: 147 Location: Hindhead, Surrey
|
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 23:43 Post subject: |
|
|
glad i popped by to see what was new. am bringing the Deli to spain (mountains) over xmas. this year i "serviced" the sliders etc and on advice copper-slipped them to high heaven. this was after a seizure and replacement last year. a few hours of fun undoing my ill-advised work awaits!!! thankyou (no really!) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
petemillis
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 709 Location: Brighton, UK
|
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:12 Post subject: |
|
|
I've always Copaslipped the slider bolts on my Deli (done three pad changes so far), on all my own cars in the past, and on my motorbike and never had a problem with either disassembly or sticking calipers due to siezed sliders.
This was on advice from several people: the KTM mech in the bike shop, a guy who restores and deals in classic cars, Wayne (who built and raced drag cars) and Nick with the tyre place who always help with by brakes and suspension when things won't come undone.
BUT, and it's a BIG BUTT, it's important to properly clean the slider bolts off before Copaslipping or whatever. This, I believe, is where a lot of people go wrong. They take out the slider bolt, add whatever lube they're using to a slider bolt that manky, the lube helps it go back together, but the added mank then makes it hard to disassemble again and the calipers stick.
As far as I am aware, there should not be a problem using Copaslip PROVIDED it's done properly and everything is properly cleaned (like with a wire brush to get accumulated crap off the slider bolt) before applying a SMALL amount of Copaslip and putting it back together. Copaslip is intended as a non-drying lubricant that prevents metal to metal contact in mating faces and in pivot joints etc, and can withstand temperatures of over 1000C - the fact it withstands such high temps is probably why it doesn't just disappear. The thing with Copaslip is that it's the only thing that one can see traces of when slider bolts are removed due to its colour.
I have however had three cases of sticking front right and side brakes - and in all three cases it's been one of the pistons siezing. But there's a trick to unsiezing these....... _________________ Pete
1995 Delica Space Gear Exceed (PE8W) in LaGuardia silver with chrome tints and BIG round things. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Marc Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Mar 2004 Posts: 1495 Location: Brighton
|
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:29 Post subject: |
|
|
I think this is one of them things that different people will say different things,originally the info i posted up came from a lockhead (ex) mechanic and now mits main dealer mechanic,apprently the main dealers will not use slip on the sliders but i suppose its down to personal preference,
Providing as pete says everything is cleaned out properly then it may not be an issue but i think i would still lean towards ivors advice personally,and judging by the amount of people over at pocuk that have had issues when using coppersnot id stick with using the propper stuff,
Cheers for the info pete
Marc :D _________________ 2.8 L400 Delica EXCEED
Nothing within any of my posts or info from this site may be reproduced anywhere without permission ©
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
gduffydc
Joined: 09 Mar 2005 Posts: 147 Location: Hindhead, Surrey
|
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 11:49 Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for that Pete- i did clean them all thoroughly (though was liberal with the copperslip). You've just saved me a few extra hours labour which i didn't have available in the first place! :D |
|
Back to top |
|
|
lucky steve
Joined: 29 Mar 2006 Posts: 139 Location: WIRRAL
|
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:21 Post subject: |
|
|
main dealers do not like using copa slip due to high amounts of lead and copper (?) ,,, it can be a health hazard , however , if you don't give a toss about health issues ,(like the company i work for) copper slip is used abundantly , on ALL brake componets, and it works ,BUT apparently latex gloves are now a health issue (nothing to do wiv the cost i suppose ) the latex gloves prevent your skin absorbing said carcogenic materials............. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
srh45
Joined: 19 Sep 2004 Posts: 316 Location: South Wales
|
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 22:15 Post subject: |
|
|
A lot of people are allergic to latex and/or the talc the gloves are covered in (which makes them easier to get on). |
|
Back to top |
|
|
skiorsail
Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 758 Location: Cumbria
|
Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:46 Post subject: |
|
|
i had one pin seize after greasing , then bend as as the pads wore unevenly . my theory is that some greases rot the rubbed which then acts like glue in the tiny gap arround the sliding pin , i now use silicone grease - a little on pin and none in the hole or you can lock the disc and dammage the rubber ring - I have replaced the little rubber ring on the sliding bolt , _________________ Delica chamonix PE8W 96.love at first sight.
Delica jasper PE8W 96 -green outside yellow inside - prev owner died smoke inhalation ?
plus Deli chamonix 2-at the price of a few months fuel who can resist. Plus toyota celica. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Lifetime member
Joined: 28 Nov 2004 Posts: 555 Location: Stoke on Trent
|
Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 22:12 Post subject: |
|
|
I've had several pins seize using copaslip, one on the shogun seized so bad when it evetually came it it was twisted like a screw. Deli has seized about six times, but neither vehicle has had any probs since using the red rubber grease as mentioned... The brakes are the most important part of your vehicle. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Lifetime member
Joined: 28 Nov 2004 Posts: 555 Location: Stoke on Trent
|
Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 22:21 Post subject: |
|
|
By the way everything was thoroughly cleaned out on my vehicles prior to using copaslip each time, and the copaslip did indeed dry out to the degree that it set so hard I had to use extreme force to remove the pins(a ball joint separator, lots of heat to the carrier, and a very big lump hammer), run an 11mm drill carefully into the holes to clean them properly, and use a very hard wire brush in my drill to clean the pins. For the extra price of the rubber grease it's worth the peace of mind that I won't have to do that again. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
steve177
Joined: 29 May 2004 Posts: 66 Location: Guernsey C.I
|
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 18:10 Post subject: |
|
|
I've come across this argument before. In most cases people are confusing siezed pins for threadlocked pins.
Pin threads should be locked with low strength high temp threadlocker.
Often garages or diyers don't have the full range of threadlockers and just use one, usually high strength, much too strong for caliper pins.
It is very easy to twist or break a pin before the threadlocker releases, this is what it is designed to do afterall.
If a caliper pin won't come undone fairly easily heat the area where the pin threads into the caliper with a hot air gun. This will soften the threadlocker enough to undo the pin. _________________ L400 2.8TD Super Exceed
L300 2.5TD Star Wagon Exceed
L200 2.5TD Pick Up
Pajero LWB 2.5TD
Guess I just love Mitsi's |
|
Back to top |
|
|
brake
Joined: 15 Aug 2005 Posts: 19 Location: New Zealand
|
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 0:38 Post subject: |
|
|
Marc & Ivor in the top post are absolutely correct. _________________ 2.8td HSEXF2 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
abcdale
Joined: 01 Dec 2005 Posts: 8 Location: middlesbrough
|
Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 16:50 Post subject: |
|
|
I nearly destroyed a Honda trying to get the engine block apart after I had copper slipped it a year earlier , I think the problem is that when you have two different metals held together you get electrolitic corrosion, and I think the "copper" is making the problem worse...... I am not an expert its just what some one told me
I would never use it again
_________________ chamonix "ROCKS" |
|
Back to top |
|
|
pigzymarsh
Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Posts: 31 Location: weston-super-mare
|
Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 23:46 Post subject: |
|
|
yet again - I'm amazed at the standard of information you guys and gals supply - another great and safe tip!! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
MattPayne
Joined: 06 Oct 2007 Posts: 183 Location: Essex
|
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 18:34 Post subject: |
|
|
did my pads this weekend and ad this exact same issue - needed breaker bar and pulling all my weight on it to loosen the pins, then snapped a pair of waterpump pliers as i used that to coax the pin out whilst turning it... the copperslip had cooked on good and hard!!! _________________ Click HERE to see my Deli!
Photos and videos of various car related activities!
www.matt-payne.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kvist83
Joined: 19 Nov 2007 Posts: 29 Location: Denmark
|
Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 20:24 Post subject: |
|
|
Hi
Yesterday i notised a noise from the front left wheel.
So took the wheel off today, to examine the problem, and surprise surprise, the top sliderbolt in the brake caliper had seized, resulting in an uneven wear on the brakepads.
So will have to get a set of new pads, and who knows, perhaps when taken apart, i'll find out if the scape goat is
copper slip applied by the former owner?? _________________ Regards Rasmus
96 Mitsubishi L400 2.5TD GLX Sportsvan 4WD
235/75 15 tyres and wide arches
Manual Transmission |
|
Back to top |
|
|
chrisfoster1971 Lifetime member
Joined: 31 Aug 2007 Posts: 1536 Location: Sutton In Ashfield, J28 M1
|
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 21:37 Post subject: |
|
|
Well I am now embarking on this lovely treat and no doubt will come in contact with some copperslip.
Glad I've read this and will pick up some rubber grease for when I get to that part.
Cheers again fellas _________________ 100% BIO DIESEL ! Well not quite at the moment
My Delica Album |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|