View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
too little too late
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 12 Location: Bury St Edmunds
|
Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 19:06 Post subject: more questions I'm afraid |
|
|
Hows it going
Yet more questions,
I have a rattleing knocking sound coming from i believe the suspension of my L300. On the left side front. It would come on when turning gentle right hand bends especially if a little bumpy. tight right hand bends roundabouts no problem. had a quick look underneath, looked like one of the left side front lower arm suspension mounts was alittle corroded. haad a local mechanic of good reputation (but unfamiliar with mitsubishis) take a look at the suspension.
He thinls that the lower suspension arm mount is okay. however, he commented that he had never seen a vehicle before where the anti roll bars and wish bone were in contact. he thinks this is not normal but is not willing to say it is definitely wrong as not familiar with the vehicle.
The one fault he could find was that the wheel hub was a little loose, and that the wheel bearing adjustment would need to be adjusted. However he did not want to take off the auto free hubs with some idea of how they were supposed to come off, his coment was i could start to take them off and there could be parts everwhere.
I have had a look in the russeks manual under front suspension and it shows the bearing adjustment as a relatively easy job, however it does not indicate how to get past the auto free hubs, the russek manual shows a grease cap only my presumption is that because all L300's have auto free hubs that they have not bothered to put this in the manual.
If any one can tell me how to get past the auto free hubs, I would like to have a go at this myself.
next and last question, revealing my minimal amount of knowledge of motor cars is again the russeks manual inidicates the front jack point is in the center of the front chassis - fair enough.
This concurs with the diagram of the underneath showing a cross hatched area under the center of the front chassis - fair enough. However the diagram also state that it shows where to place the the chassis stands. but i can find no indication on the diagram.
Also there are 2 what might be described as large stanchions or posts underneath and behind each wheel stanchion, are these jacking points for changing a wheel.
Any help gratefully received. and acted on eventually. _________________ 93 Delica glx, with teething problems
Lifes a bastard and then you die |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Google Sponsor
|
Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 19:06 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
too little too late
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 12 Location: Bury St Edmunds
|
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 12:57 Post subject: |
|
|
Wow replying to my own post, is this bad manners or merely non conformist.
The stanchion/Posts behind the wheels are jacking points
From the pajero sites I've looked at the auto free hubs seem to merely bolt on and off.
Had a go this weekend and found the hex bolts too tight to get off with an allen key (actuall put the allen key in and stood on it, and they still wouldn't budge) and too tight to get at with a hex socket and socket wrench set up. The problem is the end cap on the auto free hub ( the bit with the auto free writting on it) overhangs sideways over the edges where the socket wrench would fit.
So the question is the end cap off the auto free hub taken off to get these hex bolts out
pressently just trying a good dousing with WD40.
by the way I understand why lots of people are recommending milners
just looked at their website, and Can't believe what I paid for air, oil and fuel filters at the main dealers - I was robbed. _________________ 93 Delica glx, with teething problems
Lifes a bastard and then you die |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mark.giles
Joined: 17 Mar 2004 Posts: 294 Location: bournemouth dorset
|
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 19:21 Post subject: |
|
|
Hi mate the front antiroll bar should not be in contact with the lower arm the front antiroll bar bushes on L300 delicas are the normal thing that wears out and can cause all sorts of noises
I will have a look in to the problem that you are haveing with the free hubs and i will get back to you. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
too little too late
Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 12 Location: Bury St Edmunds
|
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 20:59 Post subject: |
|
|
hi mark
Can i Ask how big should the gap between the antiroll bar and the wishbone be, the mechanic who looked at mine said it's usually at least 1 inch and sometimes up to 4 inches on some vehicles.
Considering I had the aqntiroll bushes replaced not long after I bought the vehicle, in july. I'm curious wther i need to check I have the right type of bushes in or wether something else is wrong.
Can anybody recommend a Delica specialist, in the suffolk area who can look at this, or do I need to take it to a mitsubishi main dealers. _________________ 93 Delica glx, with teething problems
Lifes a bastard and then you die |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jo0lz
Joined: 07 Apr 2004 Posts: 908 Location: Wirral
|
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 22:49 Post subject: |
|
|
Here is your answer
The outer end of the anti-roll bar should look like this when its has new bushes
The part number for the correct rubbers from a Mitsu Dealer should be
MB 598097 BUT they got this from having my VIN number so probbaly just as well to talk to them about that
Set of four rubbers, two bolts and two washers cost me the ransom of 13.32
Certainly stops the knocking sound!!!!!!
Jo0lz |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|