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Alternator Fuse Blowing


 
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Andy W



Joined: 03 May 2015
Posts: 560
Location: Brighton

PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2023 19:28    Post subject: Alternator Fuse Blowing Reply with quote

Hi,

an electrical problem for a change; the 100amp alternator fuse keeps blowing. I replaced it once in case it was a random thing but it blew again the next day.

I've replaced the alternator today as I had a spare 100 amp one and had been meaning to replace it for a while but already I can see the fuse discolouring and getting warm.

Where should I start to look for the problem, will the fuse only blow due to an issue between it and the alternator or could the issue be anywhere?

Also, as I've installed a larger alternator should I increase the size of the fuse?

Thanks, Andy.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2023 19:28    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 8:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for something shorting against an earth.

I had the same problem, with them blowing as soon as I put them in, then turned on the ignition. It turned out to be a bolt that had dropped down the back of the dash and lodged against the steering column.

HTH
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Andy W



Joined: 03 May 2015
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 12:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lewis, this is a slow blow taking over 10 minutes as that's how long I had the engine running yesterday before I saw that the fuse plastic was turning brown with the heat, I stopped the engine before the fuse blew though.
What is the best way to search for something like this problem?
Cheers, Andy
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2023 9:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reckon the best way is to use an autoelectrician.

I am not one, so it took me a few hours, a multimeter and several fuses to work out what had caused my problem.
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skodarapid



Joined: 10 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2023 13:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having read some warnings about cheapo ebay 100A slow blow fuses I bought two, one to keep in the glove box.  It's discoloured but hasn't blown and it's been in about 15000 miles / 4 years.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2023 15:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take a trip round a local scrappers, if they let you in to wander, and checkout the German made Japanese models.  Wink


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Andy W



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2023 20:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

So far I have managed to turn the engine off before the fuse blows but what I have found is that it only gets hot if the engine is running, with just the ignition on the fuse is fine.
When I disconnect the alternator from the fuse, 90% of the electrics shut down with or without the engine running, is this right because it seems a bit of to me?
Cheers, Andy
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2023 23:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is where you need the electrical knowledge of Deker or Ian (Fostlongstrider). Is there a possibility that BOTH alternators are faulty, - possibly the voltage regulator(s) is not reducing the output of the alternator as the  battery reaches full charge? What is your voltmeter reading (a) immediately the engine starts (b) a minute or so after, when the glow plugs have shut off and (c) after a few minutes of driving, when the battery should be fully recharged after starting, and should be reading 13 - 13.2V. Ignition on, but engine off, it should read around 12.8V, soon after switching off, hot. Nearer 12V during preheat, before starting the engine from cold.
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Andy W



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2023 19:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I'm still struggling Crying or Very sad

If the ignition is on, everything works as it should and the fuse does not blow.

If I start the engine, the fuse blows.

So to me, the fault has to be with something that only operates/is live when the engine runs.

Does that make sense?

Cheers, Andy
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andyman



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2023 21:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the maximum rated output of your new, higher powered alternator? Also, is the engine only running at idle/low revs when the fuse blows? Derek (Deker) Manly has asked me to ask you if your battery is well depleted by the time the engine starts (in my experience, a diesel will struggle to start on a depleted battery as the heater plugs require sufficient power to reach temperature. The surge of current, he proposes, (if I understand him) from the (high output) alternator to the depleted battery, may be enough to blow the fuse. An in-tune diesel, with good plugs and battery, and a few seconds heating, should start instantly the starter has turned the engine once, especially in the summer, and not deplete the battery(s) significantly.
The other thing Deker suggests, is that the glow plugs are not powering down, possibly due to a faulty glow plug relay, so the heater plugs are drawing high current  from the alternator, through the battery, for an extended period, causing the slow-blow fuse to overheat. Your dashboard voltmeter and the clicks/clunks from the relays should reflect the draw on the battery and charging system.
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Andy W



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2023 18:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that Andy, I will check this but as I left the ignition on for 10 or 15 minutes earlier, I think the glow plugs would have stayed on during that time so if they were the problem, they would have blown the fuse, I will check this weekend though just in case.

This issue was happening with the old standard alternator as well as the new 120 amp one so I don't think that's the issue.

I have twin batteries which are in good condition and the engine starts on the button.


Cheers, Andy
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 11:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced my alternator with a 125Amp unit, from a 3.2L Diesel Shogun sport, in the process of being scrapped.
The shogun had the same size fuse as my old one, so I doubt that would be an issue with your 120Amp unit.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 8:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy W, if you leave the ignition on for 15minutes, the glow plugs should reduce power or shut off completely after a much shorter time: if they don't, they will burn themselves out. They are only intended to stay on for a couple of minutes even from a stone-cold engine. Also, the 100 amp fuse is in the charging circuit, not the glow plug circuit, so simply leaving the ignition/glow plugs on would only pull power from the battery, so would not blow the fuse. Leaving the ignition (glow plugs) on, but without the engine running, you should hear the relay(s) open and shut as the glow plugs cycle; heating then shutting off. I don't know if the L400 has the two stage glow plug system, where they reduce to half power for a few minutes while the engine warms up, after starting and running for less than a minute on full power.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 9:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andyman
The L400 glow system keeps the glowplugs on until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. By that I mean they turn on and are at their hottest when the solenoid clicks, which is the indicator to start the engine. They solenoid then switches power into them, as required, until the engine temp is stable.  In cold weather it is also possible for the glowplugs to switch in again, as the coolant temp drops.

This is the system diagram:-


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andyman



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2023 13:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lewis - hence why I started my comment to indicate that the glow plugs should power down after a short time, or even shut off - If they stayed on full power for 15 minutes, they'd be definitely burnt out! I don't know of any vehicles where the glow plugs can remain on full power for long periods.
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sir naggedalot



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2023 12:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Late reply, but for future reference, If you check the output for ac rather than dc and it shows ac current then this is often a good indicator that the rectifing diodes have failed. usally you'll get an egg smell long before the 100amp fuse blows if the output is too high or flipped to ac so I would suggest that there's an earth fault or high resistance somewhere.
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