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L400 parasitic draw


 
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 157
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2022 14:03    Post subject: L400 parasitic draw Reply with quote

hi All,
I still have the issue of a parasitic draw, was hoping my bushcamper conversion will eliminate culprits...but before and after are just the same.

I still have not figured out what the circuit connected to the 40A fuse in engine bay marked "lamp" is distributing energy to. there are individual fuses for high beam, tail lamp, fog lamp, stop lamp, hazard, head lamp, front fog loamp. leaving me with wondering what kind of lamp would that be? interior? the draw is >55mA, peak >70mA. battery drains in about three days, battery is new, now only drained once, revived it.

with the bushcamper conversion I have cut out the entire crystal lite part of the roof, therefore removed the entire interior light panel with the light bar etc. which was one of the suspects.
I have removed the entire rear door including them lights, the doors open light does only come up when one of the doors left is open.
I have removed the sun roof and the front interior light and switch board for sunroof and sun shade, took out the light bulb of the sliding door entry.
basically no interior lights left.
all other light sources seem to be on different circuits as said above having individual fuses.

some say check alternator. but it has it´s own fuse again and delivers enough voltage when engine running, belts are new and tight. what am I missing here?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2022 14:03    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 9:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Presumably, whatever is powered through the 40A fuse should stop working if you pull it? And stop leaking, if it is the culprit?

There are three diodes in the voltage regulator in the alternator, which prevent DC from the battery running back through the alternator to earth when the engine is off. When the engine is running, even if one diode has failed, the alternator will still charge. However, when the engine is stopped, the battery will slowly discharge through the faulty diode. Depending how many diodes fail, the alternator may turn backwards as a motor, when the belt(s) are removed. Or try disconnecting the alternator and see if the leak stops. The leak could still be elsewhere.
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 157
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 10:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you Andyman, this helps.
there is also a fuse for the Alternator so it seems when looking at the cover lid of the fuse box. can I pull this one instead of disconnecting the alternator?
sorry for the question, car is still at the garage so cannot check.
but yes, that´s the way to go. check consumers  one by one.
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16299
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 10:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

That 40Amp fuse is multipurpose Headlamp, tail lamp and alternator circuit.

See Workshop manual 95-54, Page 4-8.

Here's a quick link for that manual, in my online BOX folder, which you can freely download:- https://app.box.com/file/855693049195

HTH
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Fostlongstrider
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Joined: 03 Mar 2008
Posts: 2590
Location: Hedon, East Yorks

PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 11:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Presumably, whatever is powered through the 40A fuse should stop working if you pull it? And stop leaking, if it is the culprit?

There are three diodes in the voltage regulator in the alternator, which prevent DC from the battery running back through the alternator to earth when the engine is off. When the engine is running, even if one diode has failed, the alternator will still charge. However, when the engine is stopped, the battery will slowly discharge through the faulty diode. Depending how many diodes fail, the alternator may turn backwards as a motor, when the belt(s) are removed. Or try disconnecting the alternator and see if the leak stops. The leak could still be elsewhere.


Actually the diodes convert generated AC to DC to supply the vehicle, maybe one of them is a blocking diode.
A drain of 55mA to 70 mA points to something electronic not the alternator. As the 400 has a vast amount of electronics I wouldn’t know where to start.
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 20:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy, an Alternator cannot run "backwards" if DC is applied via a defective diode to one of the field coils.

Peter, does your car have an alarm or immobiliser fitted  Question
I had a motorcycle that had an alarm/immobiliser fitted that drained batteries rapidly  Crying or Very sad

Parasitic electrical problems are a pain. Explanation here is complex.
Please send P.M. to me if you want a more in-depth details.

I did have a "Sticky" in the Electrical Issues section, unfortunately something went wrong with the site, my post disappeared.
It's a lot of work to put it back Crying or Very sad  - - -
As Lewis knows, 'an he's done a big load O corrections and re-instalments of missing files.

For you folks that have not met Lewis, I have seen what he does to keep this forum in good order and keep scammers out
and he is fast - very fast  Smile  I think it is only twice that I spotted scammers before he did.

Mr D
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Fostlongstrider
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Joined: 03 Mar 2008
Posts: 2590
Location: Hedon, East Yorks

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 9:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deker wrote:
Andy, an Alternator cannot run "backwards" if DC is applied via a defective diode to one of the field coils.



Mr D


I forgot about that in my answer, must be dementia kicking in!

My Harley Sportster had an alarm that kept setting itself and drained the battery so I got a battery maintenance charger.

Decker is correct and he is knowledgeable electrically.

ATB.
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All the best from the East Riding of Yorkshire.
'93 L300 Super Exceed  Corse Gray over Grace Silver.Auto.

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ClockworkOwl



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
Posts: 55
Location: Gloucester

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 11:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could it be a relay being actuated or latching when it should turn off?
I know my Volvo (sorry) has all sorts of stuff that clicks on and off when you shove the key in and out...
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 14:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appear to have developed a similar issue on my L300, only it loses from 12.8v (charged up yesterday) down to 11.8v this morning. Found this Youtube video so will be following it to check for dodgy alternator diodes with my multi-meter. (There are apparently six diodes, not three as I stated above.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF7ml6Rr-Yg
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 19:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Ian  Smile

Andy, a three phase alternator must have six diodes to get "Full Wave" rectification.

Some time back I had a "Sticky" in the Electrical Issues section with pictures of Test lamps and explanation how to use them.
A malfunction occurred with the site forum; many articles were wiped off - including mine Sad


Mr D
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 21:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all for the corrections! By the time I had looked all over for my multi-meter and not found it, the charger had not succeeded in putting anything into the batteries (showing 9.8V)  So I disconnected the wires from the stud terminal on the alternator, disconnected the alternator fuse, got out the good spare battery donated by a friend from his camper van, and put the charger on that while I had a coffee with friend. When I returned an hour later, that battery was showing 'CHARGED', showing the charger was working (the final section of 5 on the battery icon had gone black too). So I left it on charge and connected it to the Deli's batteries with jump leads while I refitted the diesel heater underneath. An hour later, the battery charger was reading 12.2volts, still connected to the spare battery connected to the Deli. Time for drastic action. Pulled the Saab up to the front of the Deli, connected up the jump leads, and held the Saab at 1,500rpm for several minutes, then leaving it running, turned on the Deli, and it started! So I'have now moved it into the barn, found my other charger, and both the spare battery and the Delis batteries are currently on charge. I suspect the Delis batteries are both cooked/ sulphated up, but I'll go back and check them before bedtime. I doubt if I'll make it to the Cumbria GLASS meeting at the Lakeland Motor Museum near Ulverston tomorrow. I'd give it a go on the spare battery, but with bad weather forecast, I'd probably kill that too, with lights/wipers and heater running! Ho hum! Sad
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2022 20:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy.
Will you be okay for the Blackpool Light's run  Question  I 'me interested  Smile  

Memo : No person on here has mentioned it in The vents Section, the Blackpool Light's run.
Might be too late for many folks, I'll put a note in the Events.

Mr D
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 157
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2023 17:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

we have now sorted the parasitic draw.
it must have been a relais of ain lights  instead of finding and fixing we put in an extra relai at the fuse socket.
all good now.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2023 17:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to complete my saga - a new alternator and one new starter battery (remarkably, the other was still good) restored normal service! And i did get to the Blackpool Lights charity run with WMMC 4x4!
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