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L300 rear axle wheel bearing kits


 
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2023 21:47    Post subject: L300 rear axle wheel bearing kits Reply with quote

Hello! Long time no see...

Can anyone suggest a supplier for good quality rear wheel bearing kits for L300 please?

I mean ideally ones that also include the retainer ring (MB092432). Even better if it also includes the oil seals.

In the process of attempting to refurbish an entire rear axle - long story I will update on soon.

Thank you!

J
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1992 L300 Exceed "Selma"
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2023 21:47    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2023 0:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did my outer seals last year. I think I got them from Mitzibits. It would be interesting to know if the bearings and seals from L300 2WD vans or older L200s or Shoguns  are the same, as they would be available through Mitsubishi service agents.
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Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2023 11:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andy!

Thanks - yeah I think Mitzybitz sell the bearings etc but not the retainer ring, i.e. 33134 (or MB664448) in this pic:


That's really interesting - when you did your outer seal, how did you remove/refit the retainer ring? Or is your axle the other (locknut) type?

J
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2023 19:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps I just changed the inner seal, just prised the old one out of the end of the axle casing after undoing the four bolts holding the hub/bearing casing onto the axle casing. I didn't remove the axle shafts from the bearing casings. Bearings seemed good, just a little oil was getting into the brake drum on the L/H side, and showing at the bottom of the back plate, but had coated the brake shoes, so I bought an axle set of brake shoes. When I removed the brake drum on the R/H side to replace the shoes to match, there was evidence of a minor weep on the back plate, but not on the shoes, so I had to do the seal on that side too. I have the two outer seals from the kit, but just did the quick job to get it through its MoT. As mine is an auto, MoT is about the only time I use the hand-brake, but I should check it's still oil tight so it doesn't compromise foot braking!
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 11:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Andy

Yeah, if your axle shaft is the same type as mine (retainer ring type, as opposed to locknut), getting to either the outer seal or bearing involves a rather monstrous looking process of effectively cutting off the retainer ring, and then pressing the shaft out of the bearing housing. Never mind then having to also press all of that back in on reassembly. There's a very useful and insightful post on this on the US forum:
http://~.com/index.php?threads/rear-axle-bearing-replacement-leaking-hubs.5534/#post-44389

I would be keen to just do what you did (I have no problems with the rear bearings in Selma), but I am essentially doing this on an axle from a scrapyard, with the idea to eventually swap this replacement into Selma (my axle casing is still leaking). The problem is, the brake backing plates have been completely mangled by the scrapper (they obviously thought it was a brilliant idea to just dump the whole axle on the ground, crushing the plate edges - but to be fair they are so badly corroded that they would have been unusable anyway) - so they need replacing. I managed to order some new ones from online.

The real fun part is that the backing plate essentially sits between the hub and the bearing case. The only way to replace it, is to remove the shaft from the casing. Which will need to involve the process linked to above. Or a garage with a suitable press. Which is likely the route that I'll go.

Hey ho. I guess a full axle rebuild it is. Maybe I'll even remove the diff centre, just for shits and giggles.... Suffice to say I am going to town on this thing...
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 15:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you started disassembling by undoing the 4 bolts that hold the bearing case onto the axle casing? IIRC, once you have removed these, and disconnected the brake pipes and cable, you can pull the whole half-shaft and bearing assembly from the axle casing, and then prise off the backplate complete with shoes and slave cylinder. Again, II RC, I tried a variety of levers and a slide hammer with a carefully ground curve on a thick washer that inserted past the defective seal in the end of the axle casing, and gave it sufficient welly to get it out of the axle casing. Not changing the bearings means you can use the existing shim(s), plus a carefully applied thin bead of gasket silicone, having first chilled the replacement seal in the freezer, applied grease and carefully hammered it back into the end of the axle casing with a suitably sized socket with short extension bar and a hefty joiner's wooden mallet (to prevent damaging the square female end of the extension bar.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 15:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah one side is already undone and shaft (and hub/bearing casing) has been out of the axle casing briefly (I've put it back in temporarily to keep safe). Nuts on other side are loosened but haven't removed yet.

The trouble is, as you say you can undo the backplate from the bearing casing (33113 in image above), as it's held onto it by the same bolts that hold the bearing casing to the axle housing (33106B) - although they are press fitted into the bearing casing.
However, even if you do this, the plate itself is still trapped between the bearing case and the shaft assembly (33136A) - which are held together by the retainer ring as above.

I'll upload some photos soon. If nothing else it's an interesting process.

Fun and games...
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 15:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should add, for the replacement axle, my goal is now to full strip it and take somewhere to be grit blasted. It is VERY rusty.

Also, VERY heavy with both shafts and diff still in place...  Laughing
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2023 0:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do remember that the back-plates on mine are getting a bit weak and crusty around the edges, so I may have to refresh my memory on dismantling before MoT time, which is incidentally on the day in August that I am supposed to meet up with Lewis and Fostlongstrider (Ian) at a 4x4 show at Driffield, East Yorks. Then there's the spring eye/ shackle bushes and the very crusty saddles and U-bolts that hold the axle in place . . . Crying or Very sad
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2023 0:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try this supplier:-

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/mb092432
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