Yellow diamond : click here

Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™
Mitsubishi Delica L300, L400 and D:5 Owners Club
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   Watched TopicsWatched Topics   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your personal messagesLog in to check your personal messages   Log inLog in 
CalendarCalendar  dynamic online chat serviceChatrooms   Delica Club ShopClub Shop  MDOCUK Classified Ads serviceClassified Ads
MDOCUK home pageMDOCUK Home  Yellow Diamond ClubsYellow Diamond Clubs  Delica Club (CA)Delica Club (CA)  Delica Club (AUS)Delica Club (AUS)

Camber angle massively wrong

Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™ Forum Index -> Wheels, tyres, suspension, brakes and steering
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 12:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to have a bash at it this weekend, not enough spare time since the end of furlough.

I'm confident that this will resolve some of the ugly banging and bumping noises and seemingly complete lack of damping. Next thing is to sort out the LHS drive shaft, I'm almost certain it's this that's causing a rubbing/grinding noise in certain circumstances - mainly when turning right under load. The Milners CV boots I had installed by the garage for last MOT have come adrift, I can only assume the garage didn't use the correct clamps when installing, looks like they used cable ties - ridiculous!. I expect the joints are now devoid of grease and probably worn. Never pulled a drive shaft before, not looking forward to it.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Google
Sponsor





PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 12:21    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


Back to top
Lewis
Site Admin


Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16291
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 8:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cable ties are preferable to the metal clips they provide, which require a special tool to crimp them tight.

Provided you use a wide enough tie and pull it tight they should not come adrift. I’ve always used ties in preference and not had any problems.


RE: grinding noise;

If that is coming from the left driveshaft; then it’s possible that it has been partly pulled out at some point, which will have brought the splined end into contact with the toothed cog in the diff. If so it will have ground the splines down. That will prevent the front wheels from engaging 4WD.

That would require a replacement of the full shaft, as the inner end is not available separately.  Damaged ends can be recycled into doorstops and mallets.  Very Happy
_________________


Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message Visit poster's website
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 15:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Lewis. Thanks for the 'good' news. I'm really quite annoyed about the whole episode, I only had a minor problem that I wanted to fix as a preventative before my mechanic decided the upper wishbone needed replacing, the result was a whole load more problems and sound effects. I still maintain that the old wishbone was perfectly okay.

I've swapped the front shocks today. It's not fixed the original problem but it's improved it, less noisy and less bumpy on uneven surfaces. There is still some play somewhere on the front left. The only thing I can think of now is the lower wishbone. If the main bushes or lower ball joint are toast it might explain why the suspension on the left sits at a different angle to the RHS.

I'm wondering if the driveshaft issue is due to the camber being so badly out for a while, when the anchor point wasn't correctly located. The camber was adjusted to compensate as much as possible at the time, I guess I need to get it set properly now but it seems a bit pointless if there's more work needed on the suspension...
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2021 8:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m pretty sure 4WD is still engaging correctly so hopefully it’s just the outer shaft that needs some love.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have ECS, the shocks have different mountings to the the non-ecs type.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 18:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not an ECS model.

I've bitten the bullet and changed the lower suspension arm (wishbone) today, what a PITA. A couple of things have become apparent. My issue with clearance of the shock bracket and upper wishbone (i.e. there is none!) can't be anything to do with the lower wishbone. Even if the bushes were shot it wouldn't make any difference to the upper wishbone position. The old ball joint (lower) was extremely floppy so it was worth doing for that alone I guess..

Whilst looking at the Russek manual I've noticed a lot of differences (and outright mistakes, the stabiliser bar becomes the torsion bar in one magical paragraph?!) in the steering section. Whether some of this is just down to different models I can't say. However, Russek references an 'adjusting shim' which appears to be mounted either behind the shock bracket or behind the upper wishbone shackle (it's not clear). A shim behind the shackle would improve or resolve my issue. I don't have any shim as far as I'm aware. I can't find any shim on the epc mitsi parts list.

All drawings I've seen depicting the stabiliser bar/anti roll bar - whatever you want to call it, are at a  completely different angle to mine. Whether it's just the way they're drawn, whether they're actually a different model or whether mine is positioned wrong is debatable. When I bought my previous Deli someone had put the bar on upside down, it bashed the kerb if I bumped up on the pavement, so mistakes obviously do happen.

Cheers
H
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 16:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay, the good news; I've had the chassis problem seam welded and plug welded and it's driving as it should now. No noises at all and a nice smooth ride. A local autobody guy did it for me for next to nothing. It's odd how some things that should cost a fortune cost nowt and stuff you expect to be trivial is hundreds if not thousands of £££s

Unfortunately I now have a new problem needing resolution before I'll be able to get an MOT (now expired whilst the welding work was being done). The ABS dash light appears to be permanently on, I'm confident this will be an MOT failure. Brakes appear to be working fine although I haven't tested the ABS operation yet. The light has come on intermittently in the past but has always cleared itself and not come back for weeks or months. Is it likely that the ABS sensor or its wiring has been damaged?

Thanks
RobH
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Green Grouch
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 14 Feb 2012
Posts: 1264
Location: Dorset

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 18:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great news after all this time, and you've highlighted an issue we will all look for now. 👍
We have also highlighted the replacement control arm problems. 🙁
The abs light will hopefully be a simple fix compared to this!
_________________
A Little Knowledge is Dangerous and expensive! especially if your me Mending anything!!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Lewis
Site Admin


Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16291
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 21:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobH wrote:
okay, the good news; I've had the chassis problem seam welded and plug welded and it's driving as it should now. No noises at all and a nice smooth ride. A local autobody guy did it for me for next to nothing. It's odd how some things that should cost a fortune cost nowt and stuff you expect to be trivial is hundreds if not thousands of £££s



Brilliant, It also shows how something can get so drawn out and confusing, but after the fault is discovered and repaired, you wonder why.  Smile

RobH wrote:
Unfortunately I now have a new problem needing resolution before I'll be able to get an MOT (now expired whilst the welding work was being done). The ABS dash light appears to be permanently on, I'm confident this will be an MOT failure. Brakes appear to be working fine although I haven't tested the ABS operation yet. The light has come on intermittently in the past but has always cleared itself and not come back for weeks or months. Is it likely that the ABS sensor or its wiring has been damaged?


... Just when you see a light glimmering down the tunnel, smoke gets in the way of getting to the end....  Confused

It's possible that the cables have got damaged, but I think that unlikely as a welder knows to keep clear of them, but they are routed b y that area.  It could also be down to an issue with the probe, assuming it is from that Hub.

You may find this Post i did a while back on the ABS sensors useful:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50121


HTH
_________________


Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message Visit poster's website
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2021 20:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lewis and Green Grouch.

I should point out to anyone who reads this in the future that the main problem was actually a split in the chassis behind the upper wishbone mounting point. This has now been welded and seems pretty solid.

Broken wheel speed sensor wires (x2) have been bypassed today but I still have a less obvious ABS fault to find and repair. I've started a new post about my ABS problem so will leave this one to sink to the bottom of the pile.
Cheers
RobH
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2021 21:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know little about the abs system on the Delica, but have suffered from abs lights on several vehicles. Rust or muck (especially if metallic) on the reluctor rings has been the problem a couple of times. I believe the L400's are internal to the hub - on most cars they are exposed/visible. The most common fault I have found is where the distance between the reluctor ring and the sensor, changes, either because of bearing play, or because (on one occasion) the new bearing had not been fully pressed home in the new rear disc-and-drum-with-reluctor hub. The gap tolerance between reluctor and sensor is very small, a bearing can have a very small amount of play, producing no sensation/noise while driving, but sufficient to throw on the abs light.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2022 23:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I’ve been using my welded up vehicle for a month now. The creaking is back and driving me a little mad. No problem at reasonable speeds on straight roads. Low speed manoeuvring is noisy. Creaking from the original corner but sounds a little more metallic than previous. A bit like jaws from the bond films grinding his teeth. Sad

There is an occasional reprieve, usually when it’s not been used for a couple of days. The noise starts again after a mile or so.

I’m suspicious that the weld up job has left rough edges which are flexing against each other. Alternatively it could be the curse of the milner top wishbone bushes Sad
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Andy W



Joined: 03 May 2015
Posts: 559
Location: Brighton

PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2022 18:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar noise on my van ages ago and it turned out to be the front sway bar bushes, could be as simple as a bit of lubrication if you are lucky,
Andy
_________________
1994 LWB Super Exceed L400, Black & Silver
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2022 10:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestion Andy. I had new bushes and new drop links installed as part of the elimination process, I don't think that's it. The creak is very definitely coming from the front passenger corner, possibly a little further back, almost under the passenger seat on occasion, perhaps related to the torsion bar.

Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2022 10:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a two man job - one big fella to rock the whole van, one other to lie underneath and find the creak.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Andy W



Joined: 03 May 2015
Posts: 559
Location: Brighton

PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2022 19:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very big fella!
_________________
1994 LWB Super Exceed L400, Black & Silver
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
RobH



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
Posts: 247
Location: Chester

PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2022 10:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm near 14 stone and I can't make it squeak. Sad
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™ Forum Index -> Wheels, tyres, suspension, brakes and steering All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4
Page 4 of 4

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


All contents © Hobson's Choice IT Solutions Ltd 1997 on
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group