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Leaking Sunroof L300 Exceed


 
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 74
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2021 23:01    Post subject: Leaking Sunroof L300 Exceed Reply with quote

Anyone had the joy of fixing a leaking sunroof on a L300 exceed. Mine is the low roof with the one big sunroof above the second row of seats. Now my van finally works I had a lovely trip exploring the south coast of England last week. It was not so lovely when I got woken up sleeping at the side of the road on Dartmoor NP with heavy drips in my ear. It only happens when I wash it or heavy heavy rain but clearly needs fixing.

Poked my head up and it looks rusty around the outside and generally in there. the window has never sat completely flush with the roof but I thought the position it was in was good enough.

I think it will be asking for trouble to try and get a working sunroof (I did buy a second hand motor to attempt this) and am now thinking just seal all the way round with silicate sealant so it will technically 'peel away' if I ever come to attempt a proper fix. you don't need a sunroof in Manchester or England lets face it.

Anyone done this before and have any advice? it doesn't even sit flush though with the roof. I'm assuming its meant to sit bang on flat?.

Thanks

Matt
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jim_lewis1



Joined: 05 Mar 2016
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Location: Cardiff

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2021 10:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not had to do it, but if I did, I might think about first putting some type of tape on the area to be siliconed, to enable future removal more easily.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2021 16:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt -  completely off topic - glad you got the van working, what was with the cooling it in the end? And also, apologies for disappearing in the peaks - by the time I realised and turned round the others were coming the other way. Great to meet you though. Next time you're down south give me a shout.

Sunroof - I reckon lots of silicone spray / WD40 etc up and down the tracks then get someone to help manually open and close it (There should be a manual allen key type bolt to turn under a cover somewhere, but never that that sort apart to find out). If you can get it moving a little you may then be able to fully close it flush before sealing.
Also check the drain holes and pipes that run down the A pillar for blockages


Check out the manuals section: 42_Body, Page 42-63 onwards (page 65 of the PDF)
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45972
Exploded diagrams and schematics may help
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 74
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2021 23:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Jim that seems like a sensible thing to do. I think quick fix now before autumn arrives is needed then leave it to potentially have a crack at fixing it properly next year or at least give myself the option.

Roger - No worries at all. Was great meeting you too and no worries, everyone sped off so I think we were all playing catch up. my little Deli couldn't handle it anymore and the RAC came out to tow me home. I'm so happy I finally got it working though, all along it was my rad. I finally gave in and had to get a new one from Lee, at†Tig weld4u, made up and itís done the trick. Aluminium 42 mm core with bigger tanks so cooling very well. highly recommend if anyone goes down that path. Needle never leaves 1/5 now even after driving Plymouth to Manchester in one go (minus fuel stop) Was racing around the southern counties but next time I'm down Iíll be sure to give you a shout.

I have it moving about an inch up and down, then one side is just not quite flat with the roof. I think you showed in staffs that itís meant to retract all the way into the head lining? Need to give it a good clean like you said. Iím just worried if I try and get it moving down and up properly it could just stick down. It looks quite rusty in there.

How do I access those drain holes in short I have a cleaning pipe for my mx5 which is for the same job. Cheers for that link Iíll be sure to scan over it

Hope all is well
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 22:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Matt, so glad you found and resolved the problem with no permanent damage (except to the wallet!)
There have been several posts in the L400 and other sections regarding their smaller, front sunroofs. Is yours evenly unseated on each side?
On L400s, I believe the two drive cables get out of synch when one side's drive gear wears and slips a couple of teeth, and then the roof glass twists slightly as one side drops into place before the other.

My Rover 75's tilt and slide sunroof was designed to sit flush, but allow water to drain through a felt/brush type surround into channels which drained down †tubes in the A pillars. However, due †to a design fault, they would leak into the footwells (yes, L300s aren't the only cars with wet foot syndrome!). As the cure meant some dashboard dismantling, I cured the problem by spraying m/cycle chain wax onto the felt/brush seal, and rubbing it well in to dry. I could still open and shut the roof, and it successfully sealed against rain every time.
You may find that rust has perforated the roof or frame of the sunroof, you will need to use a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder to clean it up, then treat with the Kurust stuff that dries to a purple/dark grey resin finish. If the holes are only small, I would advise sealing with black rubber gutter seal mastic, NOT a silicon based one. I use it to seal my imperfect under-body welds; you can get a smooth finish and prolong drying by wetting your smoothing finger with white spirit or turpentine, the same can be used for cleaning off any smears on paintwork.

PS: Condensation on glass is a problem when sleeping in the Deli, especially in cooler weather, but I take it you have eliminated that possibility. It's one reason I fitted a diesel heater, and prefer not to use an unvented gas one, as they produce condensation. Good luck!
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
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Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 21:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the very late reply Andy. Iíve been working away and on annual leave. Iíll have a look at those L400 posts thanks.

I have no idea if itís meant to be flush or not to be honest. The roof barely moves at all. 1/2 and inch at best and certainly not as its supposed to. I can hear the motor working but itís just hardly moving. I think itís all probably very rusty and broken in there and to be honest. I don't want to go taking it apart to find out it is and then struggle to put it back.

It doesn't sit flush but itís the side which is meant to move up last which isn't sitting flush. So Iím not sure if need to perhaps just give it a good clean up as much as I can from inside. Seemed like an impossible task though. Would be great to find a Deli which has a similar roof and see how it fits.

I will look into gutter sealant. I need to do something before this bad weather sets in regardless
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andyman



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2021 19:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duct tape might do the job until you get around to/have the time(and knowledge) to have a proper go at it. My daughter once bought a Clio with the sunroof sealed by duct tape. I removed the duct tape, cleaned it all up, and was convinced I'd done a good job on it, but in damp weather, the windows misted up. Then my daughter reported that when she braked hard, a deluge of water spilled out of the headlining and soaked her and the dash. I sealed the glass in with mastic and told her never to touch the switch again!
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 0:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

ha yeh nice work. To be honest I've only noticed it once. When sleeping in it right on the top of Dartmoor moor. The van was swaying from side to side in the wind and rain. Very very heavy. Woke up at 4am with a slow drip in my ear and the roof carpet around the front drivers corner wet. So I think itís perhaps when there is a big amount of rain going in there. Did you say the pillars behind the drivers door act as draining channels? could perhaps see if something is blocked up preventing a proper drain off.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 20:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

My front cab manual sunroof drains through the B pillars - there are little rubber tubes poking out under the sills. If you sprinkle a hose over your sunroof, you should see water running out. If not they may be partially blocked. Mine also suffers driver's wet foot syndrome in certain weather conditions. I suspect the front door seal and some auxilliary lighting wires that run past it. Jejeonje on here has lots of (mainly rust-related) leaks in his roof and around the sunroof. Another place to check are the gutters which are a panel joint line, with mastic in them sealing the joints. A hairline crack in the mastic will allow water in, but this would tend to drip off the lower edge of the head-lining. The roofs also start to rust through when the reinforcing hoops supporting the roof panel crack their mastic adhesion to the roof panel, vibrate, rubbing off any paint, and allow interstitial condensation to rust the roof panel through from the inside.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 20:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS: See page three of this section for Jejeunjes posts on the subject.
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2021 10:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had my front sunroof sealed into the bodywork as I have never used it.
I was having rust on the panel in front of the sunroof repaired at the time by a friend who has a body shop as Iím not that good with bodywork.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2021 17:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plus working on a Delica's roof constitutes working at height! You need someone to foot your ladder!
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 7:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

And someone else to foot the bill!  Laughing
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 11:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shudder, leaky roofs!  Sad

Yeah, so originally mine had a sunroof over the front seats. I would have loved to have kept it but the rust around it had progressed to pretty much terminal proportions.
In the end I cut the (w)hole (fnarr) thing out, and replaced it with a fresh sheet of steel which I bonded in with rather very heavy duty panel bond, see photos in thread linked above. I also ended up replacing the entire middle section stretching between the Crystalites.
I could have tried welding it, but this was before I got my own welder let alone touched one at all, and the body shop places I asked at the time either flat out refused to touch it, or quoted stupid prices (I.e more than the value of the van!) to do it. I still wouldn't trust my self-taught welding skills to do good enough a job on it, to be honest.

I was worried about the panel bond solution, but it has held up surprisingly well. I did have to repair one small section which had started "peeling up" along one side, where I had to try to shape the new steel to curve down a bit towards the gutter, but tbh I think that was more a tiny bit of rust had started eating away at the steel where the join is, rather than the bond itself failing. The trouble with the particular bond I used was that you have to use it on unpainted steel, which obvs is a concern with rust coming back, if you don't manage to seal it really, really well. But that would be pretty much the same with welding!
At the same time as the above repair, I repainted the entire roof (with a roller!) using heavy duty epoxy "chassis" black paint, couple of layers. On the whole this seems to be okay and doesn't look as nasty as it sounds.

Sadly, however, the saga continues! I have new leaks now, from the area around the front O/S Crystalite (the one behind the drivers seat). I suspect this is something to do with the rubber seal around the glass, though, and not the roof itself - I can't imagine it has anything to do with the bonding of the steel, as even very close inspection doesn't show any issues with any of the joints.
I'm going to have to investigate this more closely over the winter (the leak has been pretty serious at times), so will try to remember to report back.

As for the sunroof sitting "flat" - I'm pretty sure the front one in mine definitely did sit entirely flush with the roof. I suspect the rust originated from the inside, as andyman suggested, caused by rubbing of steel where rubberised "padding" has worn away. And yes, the channels around my sunroof had the little drain tubes, which ran through the pillars.
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jejoenje



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 11:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Plus working on a Delica's roof constitutes working at height! You need someone to foot your ladder!


... or just be impatient and moderately suicidal  Laughing
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andyman



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2021 22:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

If ever my Crystallites start leaking at the rubber surrounds, I will scrub away all the moss and lichen with hot, soapy water, then get it thoroughly dry (with a hair dryer or heat gun if necessary), then apply black rubber gutter mastic around both edges sparingly, with a carefully cut nozzle and mastic gun, smoothing it with a finger dipped in white spirit, and rubbing off any smears with paper towel, damped with said white spirit. If I make a mess, it shouldn't be too visible from ground level, but I reckon it will keep out the rain!
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