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Water Pump bypass pipe install

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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2021 12:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi - yes sure. I'll pop out in a bit and get some snaps for you
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2021 19:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there,

Here are some pix and a video so you can freezeframe.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LeFLUScCjVQBrXuQA
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1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/__PinkPig___/

A never ending camper/restoration project
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ClockworkOwl



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
Posts: 55
Location: Gloucester

PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2021 12:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recall thinking "how can it possibly take any more pressure than this?" whilst installing the pipe after a water pump replacement.

Actually, I think it took a couple of attempts and, like undoing an oil filter, required sustaining the high pressure for a few seconds whilst the o-ring slowly bedded itself.
At this point, the bolt flange on the pipe was fairly flush with the mounting on the head, no real gap to bolt up if you see what I mean.

If you temporarily fit the pipe without the O-ring on, you should be able to see if the pipe meets the pump correctly or is bent at all.

Hope this helps!
Pete.
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 89
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 14:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that pink pig. Very good of you to make that video and them snaps. After seeing that video I knew the o ring was wrong. I got it in the kit for the WP from japan parts. I actually since bought a water pipe with o ring still on from an eBay breaker. Just literally to compare pipe and o ring.  Straight away I noticed how much flatter but wider the o ring was. It went in like a dream.... you should have seen the smile on my face knowing it was something so simple. no idea what that o ring is in that kit but it certainly doesn't work for the water pipe. The gaskets though that come with it are bob on.

Anyhow thanks again. pipe was slightly bent but not the reason for my troubles... I was lost at that point though... New O ring ordered from mitzybitz and the genuine one this time  Very Happy
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mouseflakes



Joined: 17 Jun 2012
Posts: 193
Location: Kendal

PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 10:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just done this job along with timing belts and front oil seals. Sorry I didn't come on here sooner and see the post.

In my case the WP I bought included an 'O' ring that was round in section. The old one that came off was flatter, but I'm pretty sure this was due to the length of time it had been fitted.

I left the pipe bolted to the block. I offered up the pump and pushed the fitting together as best I could (not bolting the pump at this point, so I could 'wriggle' the joint as I pushed). But once the back of the pump was near the front of the block I could still see a bit of the O ring when looking from the back of the joint (it helped here that the ring is bright blue). This looked wrong. So I pulled the pump off and tried again, but this time put a bit of detergent/water mix around and inside the port in the pump (previously I'd only put it on the O ring). This time it pushed home nicely with none of the ring showing from the back of the joint.

As ClockworkOwl said above, when you're pushing the joint together it feels more like a long, slow push is required. And the detergent made all the difference.

Having said all this ^, I've not yet filled the cooling system, so still might find it leaks Smile. Hope it has already worked out okay for you anyway, apologies for the late input.
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mouseflakes



Joined: 17 Jun 2012
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Location: Kendal

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 13:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've now filled the cooling system and run the engine for a while. I can confirm, fitting the pipe into the pump this way has resulted in a nice dry joint.
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 89
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 22:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your reply and help. Well I ended up just fitting the one I bought off someone breaking their van. I've had two sent by Mitzy bits and they are. both wrong (first one certainly and second one I'm quite sure). first was tiny and clearly wrong and one was so thin and small compared to the one that came with the second hand pipe. Had a good chat on the phone with Mitzy bits, He was helpful but couldn't help me anymore as that's the one he has for that part ID.

Anyway now I have a brand new pipe still in its box and an old pipe and big 'O' ring in place on the van.That 'O' ring is big and its snug. It's not dripping and I've spent far too long on this so its staying put. Next coolant service I'll seek to find a correct sized 'O' ring and pop the two new parts in.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 23:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 4D56 doesn't take overheating well. A good idea to keep an eye on your temp gauge and coolant level for a while - general principle after doing any work on the cooling system.
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
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Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 0:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny you say that. I was going to start a new post but I refrained until my latest purchase arrives to see if it helps.

Took the van out on Saturday after finally installing the water pump, thermostat, water pipe etc. No drips and engine sounding good. Got as far as Macclesfield. About 15 miles from me. gauge was on 1/3 for ages. Then started to creep up on the A road at 50mph. Started to see it go to 2/3 approaching the hot side. Wasn't liking it at all. Pulled over and it was doing what it did which started this whole thing for me, bubbling at the overflow tank and pouring out the side of the van. Called RAC (time I got some recovery money back) The fan had come loose and was actually falling off. Not sure if it was me or the mechanic who fitted my alternator last weekend. Either way it wasn't good. RAC mechanic was great and fixed it back on. All agreed thats the reason why I'm overheating obviously. He kindly tailed me for another five miles and again it went up to 2/3 quite quickly and the tank was bubbling again.

I've just bought a new radiator cap as he said thats the only thing he can think of. It could be opening up too early and therefore not making a closed system and effectively just making my rad and overflow tank into a kettle bubbling away. If this cap isn't the thing thats causing it I'm stumped, he was also with 31 years experience. Lets hope this is the final fix.

Both hoses are hot, so the WP is working and Thermostat is opening as it should.

Any thoughts. I was dreading its the head gasket this whole time but the mechanic seemed to think I would know about it if it was. No smoke and engine sounds smooth etc?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 23:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Matt. You don't say whether the fan was spinning fast the next time you stopped after the RAC man had secured it. The fan has a viscous clutch, which engages as the viscous fluid gets thicker as it gets hotter. Someone suggested to a member who was going to do some mountain climbing, heavy laden that he should try wiring the aircon fans direct on his L400 to boost cooling, without the extra stress of running the A/C proper. If your viscous fan isn't working, that might be a possibility? Even climbing three Lake District passes in quick succession two years ago couldn't persuade my temp needle to rise more that 1/4 of the way up the gauge. Have you thoroughly flushed the radiator? Are its fins, or those of the A/C rad in front of it clean, - or clogged with mud or dead insects? One of the reasons both Delica diesel engines overheat is that the narrow water galleries either fur up due to limescale and/or unsuitable/lack of anti-freeze. Also, if a previous owner has tipped a bottle of leak-seal into the radiator. If you are in a hard water area, use distilled water. Use green or blue silicate based coolant, definitely NOT the pink OAT long-life stuff. A new radiator might prove to be a sound investment if you are not sure about the one you have. You so did the right thing to stop, even if you have to do it every few miles and top up to get home: you do NOT want to overheat your engine.
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Mancdelica



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 23:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Andy.

I think it was the pressure cap after all. Had it on for a week or so now and its barely gone above 1/4 like you said. And that was taking it up from slow roads then eventually motorway. wasn't the biggest trip but couldn't see it moving so was happy. Ill be taking it to Wales in a few weeks so ill be looking at the gauge like a hawk then and hopefully it stays the same. So would you say 1/4 - 1/3 is standard for a normal laden couple hour journey. I read on the US forum about it, and everyone spoke about 1/2 then 3/4 when towing. Seems a bit too high.

With regards to your handy tips: It was spinning just as fast as it ever has done really. I've watched it with the surround removed many times now and all looked well. Rad had a good flush. Hosed out when off the van, Coolant flush etc. New WP, thermo, bypass pipe and cleaned hoses so shouldn't be them. gills look good. few dents but nothing major. AC fan I've never seen on? I have no belt to the AC unit so no idea weather it works. Not sure if its worth hard wiring it in as you suggested. I'm missing the pulley for the AC and I couldn't be bothered installing it. Not needed in the North as we know. I'm hoping that's it now. Sucks to think all this work and pain through winter could have been solved by a £4 rad cap and no work. well now I have piece of mind the rest of the system is good.

New rad is on the radar when the funds may allow.

Cheers as always.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 18:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news. I think the general consensus amongst L300 owners is that 1/4 -1/3 of the way up the guage is normal/ acceptable range. If it gets to 1/2 way, ease right off or stop, so if on  a motorway,  cruise as slowly as possible in top - around 45mph, and it should start to drop. If it doesn't, stop, let it cool right down, then check everything. I remember as young man driving to the South of France in my girlfriend' old Vauxhall Viva, with a soon-to-fail water pump. We had to have the heater on full and all the windows open with the outside temperature at 35C to keep the temp gauge out of the red at a steady 50mph. Near Dijon, we found a shaded roadside bar, had a few beers and a sleep under a tree, and resumed our journey at around 7.00pm. Remember, you have two heaters, and this isn't the Midi!
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
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Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 23:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh nice. Its been sitting on 1/3 and not moved all week (I've been driving it all the time now I finally can)

Ha ha nice little story that. Oh the memories we get from vehicles. My first ever car I bought was a 1991 Toyota Camry Estate in Perth western Australia. 30+ everyday over there. Bought it for £500 on 350,000Km, blew its head in a month or so. bought some 'Chemi weld' to try and fix the leak. the instructions said use half a bottle so we put two in. drove for another 5000Km with that car over the coming weeks. Just had to pull over every hour. Open the bonnet, give the car a drink, have a drink ourselves and off we go. good times.

Thanks for all your and everyones help. Finally got my van working. Pics to follow and hopefully get to meet some of you guys and your vans soon.
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andyman



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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2021 12:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

For meets, look in the Events section- 25th anniversary/Camping/fixing /laning meet in Staffs- so pretty much on your doorstep!
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Mancdelica



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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 22:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Argh lovely I’ll have a ponder at them cheers
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Mancdelica



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Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 22:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love this van but dearly me I would like it if it just worked from time to time.... its never ending.

As per the other post it was running fine with some 20 mile trips and the needle barely moving above 1/4. All I've  done since is drop the water out of it, use a coolant flush chemical and water, then add 50/50 silicate coolant and water. And changed the Glow plugs.

ITs holding the coolant as its full each time I open it, as is the overflow. Last couple of days its started to creep dangerously to the H line and I'm talking a 15 minute trip barely going over 20mph.

Picture attached is where the needle got too. IT actually went slightly higher than this at one point.

No idea what else I can do? New rad or replace the sensor? seems very strange aft working fine for a couple of weeks with just water in.

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andyman



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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 22:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps find a mechanic with an infra-red temperature reading gun to show how hot your engine actually is when the gauge is reading hot? Or does the engine seem really hot when it gets this high? if mine was that high, it would be bubbling and pushing steam and water past the pressure cap and out of the overflow pipe.

Did you slide the heater controls to HOT, - front and rear when you were filling up/ bleeding it?
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Mancdelica



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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 22:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea. Where would you point it and what would you expect to be seeing back? I've read about people installing aftermarket digital read outs attached to the top Radiator hose or radiator itself. It feels very hot.  Just went down again to make sure the fan hadn't come loose again or anything silly and it was still hot an hour after being parked up.

That’s what has been happening up until I bought a new rad cap. Bubbling and steaming from the overflow down out of the van by the wheel and super steamy when I open the engine seat. Not having that issue at all now. Just the neede moving to uncomfortable positions. could it be a dodgy sensor or gauge connection.

I had the front fan on but forgot about the rear one. Are they on separate heater radiators?
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 8:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to say air lock. As Andy said put all the heaters on hot, but also take the rad cap off and start from cold to let any air bubbles out just to be sure
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1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/__PinkPig___/

A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Mancdelica



Joined: 17 Nov 2020
Posts: 89
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 18:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just started it from cold. Came to a chugging start the second time with a lot of white smoke followed by black. I know black is unburnt diesel I think but the first smoke was a bit worrying.

I waited for two clicks then just turned. Once it fired up I then heard about 10 more clicks about a second apart. Never heard that before..... (this is most likely linked to the starter motor issues I'm having in the other thread. Obviously something a miss there too.

Turned both heater on full and hot. No obviously bubbles with the cap off. let it idle for 10/15. Started to overflow as it heated up so popped the cap on. I think the system is full of water/coolant.

Strange thing is when this overheating started to happen I noticed the heating went rubbish. When I first drove it I remember commenting how good it was. I know old vehicles take a while for the air to get hot but after 15/20 mins idling it was pretty much the same as when I switched to the cold....
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