Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™

[peter_rookie]

found something on ebay now. Primer Head Lift Pump Shogun. 25GBP. :-)  "Lift" did the trick I guess

[Google]

[peter_rookie]

Not much update so far,
sourcing parts became bit more challenging. brexit does not help. Although there is no customs duty there are now import fees and tax applicable which add like 30% to the value. Some courier services ceased service to mainland Europe for a while, so I am still waiting for the cooler expansion tank and some other stuff. The biggest challenge is to get a pair of head lights for the S1 to convert to from LH to RH traffic , S2 has good after market supply. I bought one from Netherlands, breaker yard, another one is now on the way from Greece..what would you do without internet...

licensing issue seems to be under control but first all items need to be repaired.
Where do you guys buy brake lines, the solid ones? asked at Mitsu dealer here but no have. need one front right and rear left.
thx
Peter

[Lewis]

Personally I get a local place to make up brake lines. Fortunately for me, that is my nephew.  

I would have though that you would have places there, who could do the job for you, like:- Wabco Austria Gesmbh, Murbangasse 8 1108 Wien, +43 168 07 00
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Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス

[peter_rookie]

thank you Lewis, would not have expected you to that search for me, was wondering if there is some aftermarket supply.
my local garage used to do that for me but the guy retired, sure no biggy finding someone then but lazyness suggests to buy whats available :-)

[andyman]

I don't know how the Austrian MoT equivalent works, but when my L300 failed its yearly MoT test on corroded brake lines, the testing garage just got them made up, fitted and bled them. At a price, of course, but it is one job I would rather leave to an expert. After all, if I mess up, I can't drive it to somewhere that can fix it!
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[peter_rookie]

very true
I have a friend with a garage and lift where we would do that, did that before on other vehicles but with oem parts at hand
thx

[peter_rookie]

finally got around to do some work on the Deli..

exchanged coolant expansion tank as the old one started to disintegrate

changed the primer pump and filter, this was the main issue it did not fire up so assumed right

glow plugs replaced, the ampere meter only showed like 25-30 amps going there so one or mire dead
kept engine running till warmed up and soaked with a bit of wd40, worked well altough they really looked like 100 years...

it now starts first turn, what a relief

while the intercooler was away looked at the pressure relief valve and found that there was quite some oil dust, assuming it would open frequently. while it was in neutral and reving up it would not open as before, then found the wastegate actuator stuck, gave it a few slight knocks until moved again. didn't take it for a spin as no license yet.

funny story on the side... took my Landcruiser out of the driveway to gain space for working on the Delica. it starts spot on but not this evening. just couldn't get it to work. like it is jealous of the Mitsu...
what a fuzz

then removed the bull bar as I can't get that licensed.

started to exchange the head lights, finally found second hand ones for rh traffic.
the right hand side one has a broken inside and the lamp will not hold in place. plan b now is to exchange the lens only.
there are metal clamps holding the lens. did anyone ever exchange a lens? I guess it will be glued as well? can't afford to break the exchange lens... any tips welcome...

also researched why the battery drains... I bought a new one and it was dead empty after a week.
ampere meter shows up to 0,35 A when all is off. started pulling fuses.
sorry have not figured out yet how to upload pics, but the fuse is the 40A which is in front, cube type.
if that one is pulled Ampere meter goes down to 0,03 or so.  which I believe is okay.

dies any one have circuit diagrams?

also exchanged the fan belts, took some time to figure it out.

many thanks, was quite happy to finally getting around doing stuff.

[Lewis]

[peter_rookie]

strange regulations, I would need a test certificate of it altough it is oem.

it's about pedestrians safety protection, all kind of bars are prohibited here in Austria
and I would not get the vehicle licensed with it installed

[Lewis]

Can you keep the central plastic covered section, as that both provides protection for the powere steering cooling pipes, as well as the front towing lugs, should you need to be winched into a recovery truck ?

If not then look into making up some towing brackets, under the chassis, where the frame bolted on.
_________________


Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス

[peter_rookie]

I am planning to put the center part back in for licensing as its plastic covered, also after licensing I want to put the wings back on. might be an advisory later again but will see...

currently a bit puzzled what drains the battery and how to swap head lamp lens. will figure it out eventually.
circuit diagram might help.

[Lewis]

Headlamps are easier than it seems.

Open Bonnet.

light unit seals at the back come away after first screwing off the plastic caps.

on outer edge of front frame undo the metal screw holding the sidelight cluster in.  One side may have a plastic cover over it.

remove sidelight cluster.

at the rear of the cluster you will see two bolts holding headlamp in place.

below the headlamps are two plastic brackets, with plastic clips, you need to remove those first. carefully pull the end of the panel covering it, from the wings, which will give easier access.
_________________


Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス

[Lewis]

sometimes battery drain is down to adjustable stop on tailgate not letting it close enough to push the off-switch in properly.
_________________


Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス

[peter_rookie]

the fuse is No.15 in engine compartment, 40A, says lamps?

[peter_rookie]

headlamps were easy to remove but the rh assembly of the supposed exchange unit is broken inside where the light bulbs are fixed.
I wonder if I can just change the lens

[Deker]

There is a write up on this forum about using an oven to melt the bond to remove the lens.

Be careful not to heat the glass too fast, so as NOT to crack it.

No doubt Lewis can find the link for you  

HTH

Mr D
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No trees were harmed in the sending of this message but millions of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

[peter_rookie]

that sounds great, thanks

[andyman]

Re - your battery drain. A common culprit is the voltage regulator/rectifier in the alternator. This contains diodes - effectively one-way valves for electricity. When they fail, charge can flow back from the battery through the alternator to earth. I believe on the L400 alternator, the regulator/diode pack is a replaceable cassette. Someone with an L400 please correct me or confirm please. On the L300 it's a full dismantle and soldering job, best undertaken by an expert.
_________________
Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon!

[peter_rookie]

thanks andyman.
I will keep that in mind
would that somehow connect to the fuses?
I’ve taken out all of them and only that No.15 40A showed increased drain.
if it is out it's only 0.05 and less instead of peak 0.38 with the fuse in place.
sorry if I'm asking silly questions, I'm not that much of an electrician.

[Lewis]