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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

found something on ebay now. Primer Head Lift Pump Shogun. 25GBP. :-)  "Lift" did the trick I guess
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:38    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much update so far,
sourcing parts became bit more challenging. brexit does not help. Although there is no customs duty there are now import fees and tax applicable which add like 30% to the value. Some courier services ceased service to mainland Europe for a while, so I am still waiting for the cooler expansion tank and some other stuff. The biggest challenge is to get a pair of head lights for the S1 to convert to from LH to RH traffic , S2 has good after market supply. I bought one from Netherlands, breaker yard, another one is now on the way from Greece..what would you do without internet...

licensing issue seems to be under control but first all items need to be repaired.
Where do you guys buy brake lines, the solid ones? asked at Mitsu dealer here but no have. need one front right and rear left.
thx
Peter
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 15818
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I get a local place to make up brake lines. Fortunately for me, that is my nephew. †Laughing

I would have though that you would have places there, who could do the job for you, like:- Wabco Austria Gesmbh, Murbangasse 8 1108 Wien, +43 168 07 00
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 13:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you Lewis, would not have expected you to that search for me, was wondering if there is some aftermarket supply.
my local garage used to do that for me but the guy retired, sure no biggy finding someone then but lazyness suggests to buy whats available :-)
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 4836
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 18:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know how the Austrian MoT equivalent works, but when my L300 failed its yearly MoT test on corroded brake lines, the testing garage just got them made up, fitted and bled them. At a price, of course, but it is one job I would rather leave to an expert. After all, if I mess up, I can't drive it to somewhere that can fix it!
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 19:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

very true
I have a friend with a garage and lift where we would do that, did that before on other vehicles but with oem parts at hand
thx
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 18:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

finally got around to do some work on the Deli..

exchanged coolant expansion tank as the old one started to disintegrate

changed the primer pump and filter, this was the main issue it did not fire up so assumed right

glow plugs replaced, the ampere meter only showed like 25-30 amps going there so one or mire dead
kept engine running till warmed up and soaked with a bit of wd40, worked well altough they really looked like 100 years...

it now starts first turn, what a relief

while the intercooler was away looked at the pressure relief valve and found that there was quite some oil dust, assuming it would open frequently. while it was in neutral and reving up it would not open as before, then found the wastegate actuator stuck, gave it a few slight knocks until moved again. didn't take it for a spin as no license yet.

funny story on the side... took my Landcruiser out of the driveway to gain space for working on the Delica. it starts spot on but not this evening. just couldn't get it to work. like it is jealous of the Mitsu...
what a fuzz

then removed the bull bar as I can't get that licensed.

started to exchange the head lights, finally found second hand ones for rh traffic.
the right hand side one has a broken inside and the lamp will not hold in place. plan b now is to exchange the lens only.
there are metal clamps holding the lens. did anyone ever exchange a lens? I guess it will be glued as well? can't afford to break the exchange lens... any tips welcome...

also researched why the battery drains... I bought a new one and it was dead empty after a week.
ampere meter shows up to 0,35 A when all is off. started pulling fuses.
sorry have not figured out yet how to upload pics, but the fuse is the 40A which is in front, cube type.
if that one is pulled Ampere meter goes down to 0,03 or so.  which I believe is okay.

dies any one have circuit diagrams?

also exchanged the fan belts, took some time to figure it out.

many thanks, was quite happy to finally getting around doing stuff.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 18:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter_rookie wrote:
.... then removed the bull bar as I can't get that licensed. .


Can you explain this comment, as I donít fully understand what you mean, by canít get it licensed ?
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 19:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

strange regulations, I would need a test certificate of it altough it is oem.

it's about pedestrians safety protection, all kind of bars are prohibited here in Austria
and I would not get the vehicle licensed with it installed
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 20:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you keep the central plastic covered section, as that both provides protection for the powere steering cooling pipes, as well as the front towing lugs, should you need to be winched into a recovery truck ?

If not then look into making up some towing brackets, under the chassis, where the frame bolted on.
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 20:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am planning to put the center part back in for licensing as its plastic covered, also after licensing I want to put the wings back on. might be an advisory later again but will see...

currently a bit puzzled what drains the battery and how to swap head lamp lens. will figure it out eventually.
circuit diagram might help.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 20:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Headlamps are easier than it seems.

Open Bonnet.

light unit seals at the back come away after first screwing off the plastic caps.

on outer edge of front frame undo the metal screw holding the sidelight cluster in.  One side may have a plastic cover over it.

remove sidelight cluster.

at the rear of the cluster you will see two bolts holding headlamp in place.

below the headlamps are two plastic brackets, with plastic clips, you need to remove those first. carefully pull the end of the panel covering it, from the wings, which will give easier access.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 20:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

sometimes battery drain is down to adjustable stop on tailgate not letting it close enough to push the off-switch in properly.
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Last edited by Lewis on Sun Feb 28, 2021 7:46; edited 1 time in total
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 21:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

the fuse is No.15 in engine compartment, 40A, says lamps?
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 21:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

headlamps were easy to remove but the rh assembly of the supposed exchange unit is broken inside where the light bulbs are fixed.
I wonder if I can just change the lens
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Deker
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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
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Location: Borehamwood Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 21:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a write up on this forum about using an oven to melt the bond to remove the lens.

Be careful not to heat the glass too fast, so as NOT to crack it.

No doubt Lewis can find the link for you  Wink

HTH

Mr D
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 21:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

that sounds great, thanks
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 4836
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2021 1:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re - your battery drain. A common culprit is the voltage regulator/rectifier in the alternator. This contains diodes - effectively one-way valves for electricity. When they fail, charge can flow back from the battery through the alternator to earth. I believe on the L400 alternator, the regulator/diode pack is a replaceable cassette. Someone with an L400 please correct me or confirm please. On the L300 it's a full dismantle and soldering job, best undertaken by an expert.
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peter_rookie



Joined: 27 Oct 2020
Posts: 73
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2021 7:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks andyman.
I will keep that in mind
would that somehow connect to the fuses?
Iíve taken out all of them and only that No.15 40A showed increased drain.
if it is out it's only 0.05 and less instead of peak 0.38 with the fuse in place.
sorry if I'm asking silly questions, I'm not that much of an electrician.
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Lewis
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Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2021 7:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deker wrote:
There is a write up on this forum about using an oven to melt the bond to remove the lens.

Be careful not to heat the glass too fast, so as NOT to crack it.

No doubt Lewis can find the link for you †Wink

HTH

Mr D


I believe Deker is referring to this sidelight refreshment post:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34051

HTH
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