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Steering Rack Rebuild..


 
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jab n claire



Joined: 22 Jun 2011
Posts: 12
Location: CHESTERFIELD

PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:35    Post subject: Steering Rack Rebuild.. Reply with quote

Well I am about to attempt this thought i would take pictures as I did it, just before the spanners come out anyone have any tips? the rack is off, i will do a write up on that wasn't as hard as I thought it was
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albideli



Joined: 02 May 2010
Posts: 1348
Location: Blyth

PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 13:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, just make sure the chrome isn't pitted or rusty on the rack just where it runs through the seal, as it won't last and it'll rip the seal to bits. Wink
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unclebazwold
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 13:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking forward to this stop leak only lasts so long.
Bazza :D
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jab n claire



Joined: 22 Jun 2011
Posts: 12
Location: CHESTERFIELD

PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 18:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well got it off in under three hours the bottom uj is typically rusty as buggery got as far as i can without being in the garage (there tomorrow) types chrome shaft could be in better condition to be fair but as i have little alternative i will continue.  Very Happy

will be inspecting closer once its in pieces, possibly talking with some hydraulic guys see what they suggest, but like i said not much option at this point kind of need a rack, we shall see how we do i suppose i figger its worth a punt at this stage.  Very Happy
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jab n claire



Joined: 22 Jun 2011
Posts: 12
Location: CHESTERFIELD

PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well we went through the motions to replace the seals hope it helps someone, but we did not replace the seals on this rack as the shaft pitting was simply to bad.

Next up I have an engineering guru looking at replacement shafts so I'm not finished yet Smile, as I needed the bus back we brought a second hand one from mitzi bits in Rotherham but we went through the replacement of the seals for those who wish to do it.

First up rack removal

Don't be scared or put off by this i can whipp it off in one hour flat this way

I didn't take to many pictures of this as its fairly straight forward to be fair, after removing the under guards, battery and the air box (trust me lol)

first jack up the bus, remove the front wheels you can replace them for safety if you do not have axle stands i would recommend that as you do not need to have them removed for the rack to be released, what you are doing is removing the track rod ends from the wheels, so pull the split pin out and split the ball joint, at this point it’s worth removing the track rod ends competently as it makes the rack shorter over all.

The rack itself is held on by four bolts to the sub frame, start by loosening these but not removed, once it's loose and the track ends are off get underneath look for the feed and return pipes, do not worry about those fitted to the rack it is the two pipes with 17mm spanner size facing out towards the drivers side wheel (this is the most time consuming part there is no quick way it's just lie on your back and fiddle with the spanner until the joint's are off, if this is particularity frustrating you only technically need to remove the front bottom one as the other has a flexible section and can be removed there, just makes it more fiddly getting the rack out, see picture.



next there are two brackets for the pipes remove them, then remove all the bolts, on the passenger side the bolts fix a bracket and rubber bush, this must be removed it's fiddly and scrappy, don't force it it will come off I moved the rack slightly to the drivers side slid the bracket to the passenger side and poped it off.

Next the steering shaft, chances are it's solid at the bottom (they all are) so remove it at the top, 12mm spanner, once off the spline pull the shaft up, at the rubber cowling it will split apart leaving a short spline bit on the bottom, let it fall back you can get the rack off with it.

once all is undone and it's free, take the two bolts holding the front diff up just in front of the steering rack (you can't miss them) once off drop down the front diff a short way, then slide the rack towards the passenger side wiggle etc watch the end doesn't catch until you can wiggle out the drivers track rod, once that's out the rack will slide out with ease, refit in the reverse order.


Now for the rebuild

first up remove the steering gaiters and the inner track arms (ball joint things on the rack undo with a 32mm spanner or a vice Smile)



next remove the bottom of the steering shaft 12mm spanner, and leave it to soak in oil Smile




then remove the pipes on the rack 14mm spanner (there will be oil) and take care to keep track of the o rings you don't want them falling in!

at this point wind out the rack either side, inspect for pitting, rust, damage and play (lateral play <->) there will be more oil lol

first job is to remove the large socket fitting on the bottom, I did not have a 24mm allen key so I used an m16 bolt clamped into a vice, the same size as most towbar bolts Smile, when that's off under it there is a 17mm nut holding the steering shaft in place hold the top (the spline) and unwind.

next two 12mm bolts hold the upper casing of the shaft in place remove them, it will not fall off without a little tickle. once free the steering shaft will be free to push back and forth for closer inspection.



next the large nut on the rear needs to be removed, under this is a spring and a bearing for the shaft (you can remove it later if it does not come out).





now for the end cap spring, take two small bolts/screwdrivers and place in the passenger side end cap (see picture) wind until you see the spring pop out the gap, then wind the spring out (see picture) after that the shaft will pull out.






last the steering shaft in the upper casing, this simply taps out gently once its tapped out (bottom seals is holding it in) the upper seal is held in by a bearing (you can see it) normal bearing removal and refit very simple to do that seal its actually more of a washer to be fair

Seal replacement


Once it's all to bits its clear what goes where I won't insult anyone lol, there are a few tips


one seal is in the deaths of the the rack (this is the one that is normally gone pop) remove this with a tight fitting socket small hammer taps and be careful!
once it's out note which way round its fitted!

to refit we used a bearing press to keep it level you can use the socket to refit it would just take longer and be careful to keep it level
the seal


remove with a socket



the rest of the seals are simple, there is one on the shaft (the bonded washer bit) it is nylon type material so not flexible, remove the old one first with a point or a Stanley knife, just be sure not to scratch the surface, once off gently slide the replacement into the groove use plastic non sharp or your fingers for this take great care, once in I used electrical tape then clamped the seal in and let it settle for a few hours.



the tapered movable part of the shaft it's a simple knock out knock in job, and an O ring nothing to taking. the o ring just slides off and the seal internal is a wiggle and don't scratch affair, I used a screwdriver wrapped in tape simple job very easy.



after that it's the four nylon seals on the steering shaft, same as the main shaft only there's four, do one at a time, take your time once in do the same take and clamp and let settle (i used a thin sheet of steel to make a rolled sleeve so the hose clips didn't bite in).



Once its had a couple of hours clamped rebuild and re assemble, the last seal is the bottom of the steering shaft where it meets the rack, knock in with a socket, job done.
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unclebazwold
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one that's in my saved now.
Bazza :D
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jab n claire



Joined: 22 Jun 2011
Posts: 12
Location: CHESTERFIELD

PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 13:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

hope it helps bazza, as long as the shaft is good it should do Smile

working on replacing the shaft or re chrome now

also on a last note forgot to say, do not start the engine until you have dragged the fluid through the system jack up the front and turn lock to lock a fair few times get the fluid in there before starting and repeating the bleeding by lock to lock Razz
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Green Grouch
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 22:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just done another rack change on my old girl and used the above post - which I bet was really good with the pictures but sadly they now gone Sad

The three main points that helped me do this a lot quicker and easier were the way I removed the 2x17mm nuts that hold the 2x pipes to the rack near the passengers side wheel.

This time I removed the air filter and housing and went in from above with a proper length spanner and could get a really decent location on the rear nut first. ( It may be worth loosening with a flare nut or crows foot first to save rounding)
then you can get a really decent amount of turn instead of moving the nut half a mm at a time from the wheel arch side.

when that is free you can get on the front one also.

sooo much easier. I just thought - how did they do this at the factory? they Can't have sat fiddling like many of us have..

the second point which i took from jab n claires post was to remove the steering shaft at the top and not even bother with the bottom spline until you can hold it properly in the vice.

when you remove the two bolts that hold the diff up as mentioned (which is so easy) - and looks like this below

https://app.box.com/s/xzj672arvojlcorsi4d6d4omzqahmwut


You can get the rack out like this


https://app.box.com/s/gy9orx01139egmhudxtvw4cztui8evqt

note bottom section of steering shaft was still attached and it came out with a bit of wiggling.

Hope this helps in the future  Smile
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buzr6mille
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2020 14:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let's see so this goes for me  Embarassed
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Green Grouch
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2020 18:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck buzz.

Great weather for the job.

If Lewis could be so kind, my above post needs an edit.

It should read, two pipes near passenger side wheel, not drivers side.  Rolling Eyes
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2020 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done!  Smile
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Green Grouch
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2020 11:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks  Very Happy
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buzr6mille
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2020 21:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Green Grouch wrote:
Good luck buzz.

Great weather for the job.

If Lewis could be so kind, my above post needs an edit.

It should read, two pipes near passenger side wheel, not drivers side.  Rolling Eyes


Cheers, slow for me due to rain and other than ngs  Embarassed

I found the two 17mm pipes on the drivers side   Confused is yours a manual  Question

I found one bracket near the passenger side wheel for the two pipes,  
also I found by pulling the steering rack towards the passengers side it could be dropped down and pulled out the drivers side from below

Anyhoo, many thanks for the info thumbup
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Green Grouch
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2020 22:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine were both autos, but I made the typing  mistake above about the pipes being on the drivers side.

I've done three now, and the first two were right witches in cold wet weather with my reynards fingers.

The third was a doddle, with a bit of thought and the above post help, and moving the subframe, which at first I was so put off doing, but was as easy as removing a battery when I tried it.

Removing the air box, to get on the pipe bolts is a must.

Glad it worked out. 👍
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