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L400 Super Exceed Lwb a few questions

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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 19:41    Post subject: L400 Super Exceed Lwb a few questions Reply with quote

Hi guy's, new here.

To put it all in context, I've recently purchased a lwb Delica super exceed. It had only done 2k miles with last owner and was used by a church comitee beforehand for ferrying the folks to and fro in all weather. It's in good condition, has been undersealed and relatively rust free. Unmolested besides a set of 31" all terrains. I couldn't test drive it fully as it was sorn'd but after a scrupulous inspection I agreed to part with my money and drive home a happy man.

As I approached the motorway and getting the old girl up to speed, at around 45mph, there was a pretty intense juddering. I could feel it through the steering wheel and see the entire body of the Deli shuddering, however after around 30-40 seconds of this, it calmed down and eased off till it felt like nothing had happened at all, it drove perfect. Down the road I come to a stop, engage park and handbrake, we set off again and the juddering returns but as before only for a short while then it returns to normal. If I come to a stop at a junction or lights and go into neutral and handbrake it's fine getting back up to speed. Has anyone had similar experience? Or knows what the fault could be?

Another thing is the gentleman I bought her off mentioned he had only ever driven in 4wd. I drove in 2wd for a while but there's an insufferable whine from the rear diff from 45-65mph it increases in pitch at the same rate as speed and when I let off the throttle the noise vanishes. I intend to have all filters and fluids changed and give her a fresh service as it's not had one in a while.

Other than that I'm very happy with my Deli, looking forward to getting her running well and out for some adventures.

Thanks
Dave
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 19:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other thing I meant to ask is front heaters all working fine, they don't quite feel as hot as they should be but the heating in the rear only comes out cold, air coming out each vent on roof and floor but just cold. I assume there's a separate heating matrix for the rear?  

Thanks
Dave
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fintious



Joined: 24 Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Location: Sheffield

PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 21:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, does the juddering occur when cruising at low-ish revs and clears when accelerating?
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 8:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi bud, it's almost the opposite low revs she's fine but once you hit a bypass or motorway it starts, while the juddering occurs, it's persistent for the 30-40 seconds even if I push harder on the throttle, take my foot right of the throttle or touch the brakes. The juddering starts, does it's thing, then vanishes. Through observation the only thing that seems to trigger it as such is when I come to a complete stop and engage park and handbrake. If I come to a stop and go into neutral it's then fine getting back up to speed. Spooky.

Cheers
Dave
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
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Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juddering:

Check that the vibration dampner for the propshaft is still attached. It's a bit square rubber block hanging from a bracket at the front end:-




Rear Heater:
Which heating system do you have, different ones have slightly different controls ?


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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lewis. I'll head out and look underneath for the damper. My Delica has the Auto controller front and back.

Cheers
Dave
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the digital one you can override what the rear heater controls are set at, from the front.

Use the one to the right to switch to rear heater and the left one to alter the settings.
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Lewis, had a look underneath. I can see the bracket at the propshaft but no rubber block, I'm hoping this will solve it, thanks very much. I've had a good play around with the heating controls, had my brother in the back while driving checking the vents and the air is coming through each one fine so no blockages at least. The rear controls all work fine aswell, switch from floor to roof as they should, decrease and increase in speed of air is spot on, just absolutely no heat coming through in the back at all. Front is warm enough, is there a separate element that heats the air for the rear vents?

Thanks
Dave
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peter turner



Joined: 03 Sep 2019
Posts: 9
Location: Bridge of Weir

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 17:53    Post subject: rear heater blowing cold Reply with quote

Hi Dave was reading your post and I am going through the same scenario regarding cold air coming through the bottom rear vents.
From my findings as part of an elimination process. first run engine till hot ie front heaters blow hot. next turn off engine and if safe to do so crawl under car and behind driver seat area and back a couple of feet you will see the rear heater box. okay so far. good you will see two rubber hoses going into that heater box. CAREFULLY touch each one in turn they should be as hot as each other this will determin whether your water pump is as efficent as it can be ( the fins on the pump internally may be worn and not provide the required force to reach the rear as it does the front heater). if the hoses are really hot then I think you may have a partially blocked rear heater matrix. It could be blocked due to radiator sealent having been added by a previous owner and this in turn can clog the small fins that carry the hot water from the main radiator. there could be a small pin hole in the matrix (are you losing any coolant from the top up resevoir next to the batteries) †Hopefully the first, easiest and most common problem could be air in the system and it simply needs bleeding. plenty of posts on here on how to do that. if that dosent solve the problem then as I had to do was to take out the rear matrix ( six philips screws)
give it a clean inspect it for damage then back flush it both ways and see what gunge comes out, this may fix your heating, sorry its so long winded I do go on a bit. if you need further assistance get in touch I live the other side of the M8 from you Bridge of Weir.
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 22:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your reply Peter. That's fantastic, I'll get a look at it tomorrow hopefully solve the problem with the information you've given! Ahh good to know of another member up this neck of the woods, is there any meets or off road events you attend?

Cheers
Dave
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peter turner



Joined: 03 Sep 2019
Posts: 9
Location: Bridge of Weir

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 22:42    Post subject: rear heaters Reply with quote

Hi Dave
No problem with advice I only hope it was clear enough. like all things mechanical it can be fixed or replaced, its just finding out what the fault is.
Regarding the vibration problem have you checked the wheel and tyre condition ie balanced weights missing /loose wheel nuts ect. on that note I have a spare set of Delica wheels that I keep for winter use that you could try on your Deli to eliminate youre wheels/tyres being the problem. let me know your thoughts † †Peter
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 10:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave_Edinburgh wrote:
Hi Lewis, had a look underneath. I can see the bracket at the propshaft but no rubber block


The rubber block is there to help dampen vibrations causing the the propshaft to occilate at low speed.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 4422
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 14:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave, you say it only does the juddering thing after you have stopped and pulled the handbrake on.
The L400 has a dual back brake system, with a shoe handbrake inside the drum of the disc, so it is entirely possible that the handbrake is sticking on (not uncommon on a car that has been stood for a while unused).
Check and lubricate the cables and linkages to the handbrake. If one side only is sticking, you will be able to feel the difference in heat coming off the brake after stopping gently.

Also, while you are under it, take a grease gun to the nipples on the universal joints on the prop shaft, although this seems a less likely cause.

If you can accelerate through the vibration (ie it only occurs at certain road speeds), then that would be an indication of wheel imbalance, possibly exacerbated by a worn shock absorber.

Check the state of your diff oil - it is unlikely to be a L/S one, so should take conventional EP diff oil (75/90grade?) Lewis will tell you the right one, my L300 has the LSD. Fresh oil may stop or reduce the whining. You are bound to have some teething issues, but it sounds like you may have found a remarkably rust-free gem!
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Sanddiver



Joined: 19 Jun 2016
Posts: 15
Location: Thuringia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave, hi guy's,
a remarkable rust-free gem sound cool. I would guess also, from the 45mph, that you will have a tyre imbalance.
After the previous owner just went 4x4, it could just 1 tyre added w mud inside?  
My rubber block dampner is lost since the beginning (now plus 90k KM's) and its fine
but I'm having also such a whine. In my case, I changed all the liquids at the beginning
and regularly, but the rear diff just works under all circumstances.
Take care not to fill the wrong liquide for the LSD one!
Enjoy her, cheers Falk
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 13:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andy thanks for your reply.

Yes, just from what I've observed, especially engaging park on the gearbox. As mentioned if I come to a quick halt at a junction or lights it's fine getting back up to speed, no juddering whatsoever. When we came to our first break on the way home first thing I done was check the wheels to see if any were hot, they were all fine. However, I took her for a quick drive to get her to temp to have a look at the rear heating upon getting back I could smell heat, bent down and I could feel the front drivers side pretty hot from a distance. That will need investigated. I'm just gutted all my tools are at my lockup and I'm stuck in the house! If it were wheel imbalance or such would the juddering not be consistent each time I hit a certain speed? I'll investigate all possibilities, I've got plenty time on my hands! Definitely bud full fluid change is on the list! Is there a way to check visually if it has Lsd?
Different casing or something? Yes as you say some teething problems are to be expected but overall I'm very happy, can't wait to get these thing ironed out and enjoy driving her.


Hi Falk! Yes she looked good underneath and nice clean arches, a rarity I believe! The tyres still have plenty tread but are old and can see cracks between the tread, I'll check all possibilities thanks for advice.
Interesting to hear about your dampner, I'll see about replacing mine just to rule it out. And yes the whine does annoy after a while, if a fluid change doesn't quieten it down I'll just need to fit louder speakers!

Many thanks guys
Dave
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 4422
Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 14:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may have found the juddering problem, Dave. Calipers on under-used vehicles often start to stick - it is usually the sliders, but may also be the pistons (dual, in this case). If you have discovered your tool kit, behind the panel in the corner by the tailgate, you should have both a bottle jack and a wheel-brace in there, after that a G-clamp, hammer, and Plus-Gas or similar, together with the correct spanners/sockets (borrow and sterilise?) should be all you need. Good luck!
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 17:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefully! Driver front caliper is definitely sticking, had it out a small drive today and again red hot after a few miles. Must have been intermittent when I picked her up but seized on solid now! Yes well the gent said he'd only done 2k miles in over 2 years of owning her so she's no be used properly! That's good to know, I'm going to head out an check what of the tool kit is left...if any! Haha I suppose I could chuck a loaf of bread and a pint of milk in the Deli and say I've been for some 'essential' shopping...quite a lot of people getting stopped by the police and being asked what the purpose of their journey is.

Found a website called japanese4x4parts.co.uk can get a whole caliper for £60, seems a good price.

Thanks
Dave
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 17:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get it sorted, you can volunteer for ambulance duties! Then you just lay the seats flat, and take someone with you to do a bit of coughing if the police stop you! Sorry, not a joking matter, but Delicas have been used as all-terrain ambulances and rescue vehicles, and very good at it too.
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Dave_Edinburgh



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
Posts: 11
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 20:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha that would work a treat I'm sure! Got to be able to have a laugh at time like these! I'd imagine they would make excellent ambulance/emergency vehicles on difficult terrain. Really looking forward to getting this Deli sorted and out for a play!
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Deker
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 20:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave_Edinburgh wrote:
Hopefully! Driver front caliper is definitely sticking, had it out a small drive today and again red hot after a few miles. Must have been intermittent when I picked her up but seized on solid now!

Found a website called japanese4x4parts.co.uk can get a whole caliper for £60, seems a good price.

Thanks
Dave

Cleaning a caliper is "Technically" easy, physically - can be hard work.

japanese4x4parts.co.uk - There is one based in Watford, dunno if its a "chain store"
Seem to have read somewhere, not good. Cannot remember why tho  Question  Best to check em out.

Best known supplier = Brakes int - Something like that.

Mr D
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