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Deadhead
Joined: 24 Jan 2020 Posts: 15 Location: Dublin
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2020 22:16 Post subject: Alternator mounting to engine block problem |
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Hi guys,
Apologies but I keep hounding ye with questions as problems keep arising as I deal with my 89 Delica. So this time its the alternator. My main question is this : where the alternator is bolted to the the two arms attached to the engine block are these arms cast as part of the engine block or can they be removed and replaced? Where the top bolt goes there was a previous bodge job where the bolt connecting the alternator to the tensioning arm was missing and instead was welded. This weld has now snapped and i now need to replace the two arms that are attached to the engine block. It's looking quite serious and i have been told that if the two arms are cast to the block-its a serious amount of work to rectify. Please please help with your knowledge.
Many thanks and stay safe! |
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2020 22:16 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 0:07 Post subject: |
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I'm pretty sure (without getting underneath, and then it's hard to see) that the lower mounting (pivot) bracket is bolted to the engine block, but you will have to remove the alternator and pivot bolt to get at the bolts. The alternator is mounted in different places on this engine, depending on what type of vehicle it is fitted in. If the curved, adjuster bracket is servicable, then you may need the block making up which is threaded transversely for the adjuster bolt, and has a hole front to back for the clamping bolt to go through, then through the curved adjuster bracket, and into the threaded top bracket on the alternator. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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Deadhead
Joined: 24 Jan 2020 Posts: 15 Location: Dublin
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 1:12 Post subject: |
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Hi andy,
Thank you again for reply, you really are top notch at getting back to lost and confused souls like myself. The bolt that attaches the curved tensioning bracket to the mounting on the block had more than likely snapped etc in the past and someone had welded it in place as a result. It has now snapped again and it looks like i need the bracket attached to the body as well as the lower bracket. Alternator kept vibrating loose and tightening belt hasn't helped. I have a donor vehicle and have started removing fan/timing cover to gain access but its slow as access is tight. My hope is to remove both brackets but didn't want to waste my time (two young kids) if the brackets were cast as part of the block. Just to clarify the brackets attached to engine block can be removed? |
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 21:14 Post subject: |
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I usually tighten my adjuster bolt from underneath, but the clamp bolt (your welded one) from above. The alternator is a tricky lump to remove and refit - it may be easier to remove the brake vacuum pump first, fitted to the back of the alternator with three hex bolts, - one of which is hard to see/reach until you have taken out the pivot bolt and tilted the back of the assembly downwards. Have the swear jar handy. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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Deadhead
Joined: 24 Jan 2020 Posts: 15 Location: Dublin
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Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2020 21:58 Post subject: |
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Hi guys,
So I removed radiator, fan, tb cover, alternator and sump as well as other bits to have a better look at alternator housing bracket arms (I think that’s what they are called) on the donor vehicle which are (from what I can make out) cast as part of the block. Damn!
I just can’t see where the housing brackets can be removed off the block.
Both of the bolt holes on the arms in my 89 have been either widened/ovalised (bottom bracket) or bolt has snapped inside arm (top bracket). Help me out lads-what is the best course of action now? |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:29 Post subject: |
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Can you get good enough access to drill or file the bottom bracket holes bigger, but circular, and then bush them back to the bolt size? Or clean up the holes with a file or coarse wet 'n' dry paper, lightly oil the long bolt's plain shaft, and locate it in position, then fill around it with plastic Padding type Metal (or similar). The oil should make it easier to remove the bolt once the filler has set. It will be very important to keep the bolt bang in line. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:32 Post subject: |
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PS, I think the top, curved adjuster arm is similar on L200 pickups and Shoguns/Pajeros that share the same engine block, albeit the alternator may be mounted in a different position. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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