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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:22 Post subject: |
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When you accelerate, there are increased revs and consequent engine noise (revs), when you go up an incline you can hear the egine working harder, needing the increased revs, which is all normal.
When I accelerate the engine just makes more noise without the increase in power.
I hate it, it sounds horrible and I don't want to push the engine. Would it be a broken turbo?
I'd be bloody unlucky to have something like that go as well as everything else thats needed doing all at the same time, but I suppose it could.
That word was higher, I presume you couldn't work it out? As in, the higher revs... |
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:22 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 21:23 Post subject: |
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If you suspect that the "Turbo" may be faulty, then -
There is a simple way to test the "Turbo" output.
AND test the Intercooler, for blockage's.
Does mean you may/will get your hands dirty.
1) Remove the hose that leads from the turbo, at the intercooler end.
In PARK, Handbrake ON. Start the engine, feel the rush of air from the disconnected hose.
There should be a reasonable air flow.
Have an assistant rev the engine to about 2,000 to just under 3,000 RPM.
The air rush from the hose should be quite significant, with noticeable pressure increase.
2) Now to test the intercooler for blockage.
Reconnect the hose from the turbo. Now disconnect the hose from the intercooler, the one that goes to the inlet manifold.
Do same test as above. The result's should be the same.
This test is NOT recommended for inexperienced people. When I do these tests, I also remove the hose from the Turbo.
It can be highly dangerous, if you do not know what you are doing.
Mr D |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:10 Post subject: |
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This test is NOT recommended for inexperienced people |
Is this really the test for me then? It does sound like a great way forward, but its not something I've ever done before, so sounds like its something I shouldn't try. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 23:48 Post subject: |
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Only the bit about disconnecting the hose from the turbo. For your safety I recommend you DO NOT do that. With engine running.
Apart from being a bit messy (on an old engine) Doing the tests I suggest is okay at the Intercooler end.
I'll have a look if you want. Pick a nice day. No rain or heavy wind/s. I don't mind weather being cold.
And i'll see if I can work out the "lack of power" - - no guarantee tho.
HTH
Mr D |
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YOZA
Joined: 07 Mar 2005 Posts: 2423 Location: The centre of the universe
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 9:34 Post subject: |
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If your turbo is blown there will be a loss of power and lots of smoke on tick over and under load, also there will be an increase in oil consumption.
If you think this could be your issue, then investigate further, as it is possible that your engine can feed its combustion using its own engine oil, you can not turn it off it just runs at high revs until it blows up.....Google "runaway diesel".
New Chinese tf035 turbos are only £68 - I've had one for 18month. _________________ Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.... |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 17:34 Post subject: |
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Thats really helpful Yoza, thanks.
There's definitely no increased smoke, no smoking when idling either, so those are good signs then and would indicate its not the turbo.
I did wonder whether continued high revs and strain put on the engine to reverse it uphill whilst turning destroying the dmf could do something like blow the turbo too, or something else. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 19:05 Post subject: |
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YOZA wrote: |
as it is possible that your engine can feed its combustion using its own engine oil, you can not turn it off it just runs at high revs until it blows up.....Google "runaway diesel". |
annek's car is Manual, therefore can stall engine by selecting top gear - - -
Mr D |
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YOZA
Joined: 07 Mar 2005 Posts: 2423 Location: The centre of the universe
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 19:48 Post subject: |
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Deker wrote: |
YOZA wrote: |
as it is possible that your engine can feed its combustion using its own engine oil, you can not turn it off it just runs at high revs until it blows up.....Google "runaway diesel". |
annek's car is Manual, therefore can stall engine by selecting top gear - - -
Mr D |
You’re right, it would either stall or do 0 to 60 in less than 3 seconds.
Apparently on an auto you can pull the inter cooler inlet pipe off, but approaching a Diesel engine reving at 16000 rpm takes balls. _________________ Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.... |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 20:00 Post subject: |
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Any chance that it's a slack/worn/thrashy timing chain? They definitely lose power as the timing goes out when slack. Any input, Mark Broad? _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 20:34 Post subject: |
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Andy.
Annek sez the problem started after clutch, DMF change.
Surely that would not incur an immediate timing chain problem Question
annek came to my place a couple of years back, I noted the noise emanating from the Bell housing.
Of course I had no idea what the noise was about, I assumed it was a rattly clutch fork, maybe the bearing.
It was the first manual L400 that I'de seen And I did not know the Delica had a DMF flywheel Sad
I've made the offer to annek to pop over to my place, to see what I can work out.
However, Mark3 is a tad closer to annek, dunno if he would have look. That's up to annek to ask Mark3.
However, the main thing I may, or may not work out, is the 4 WD lights (Assuming annek has checked, or not, the dash bulbs)
I've not had problems with my 4 WD, so, a lot I do not know about the 4 WD (indication) system.
I do know how to test if 4 WD is working. As I pointed out in a previous post.
But the power loss, may be Mark3 speciality.
Mr D |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 23:25 Post subject: |
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Really grateful for all your thoughts and posts thank you.
Can I ask, at how many miles (average) would a timing chain be likely to slack off a bit, its a massive deal to tighten it right? Mant of my 'miles' were actually kms of course so a bit difficult to gauge exactly. |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 23:27 Post subject: |
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The noise Deker, I can confidently say, was the dmf on its way out, as that start up judder has gone now, if thats what you meant. |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:22 Post subject: |
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The timing chain has an automatically adjusting hydraulic tensioner, which will keep adjusting as the timing chain stretches with wear. This wear will generally be dependent on the oil change/ servicing regime the car has had over its life. Once the adjuster is fully extended, the chain will become slacker. From many posts I've read on here, they will usually need changing anywhere between 100,000 and 250,000 miles, with an average around 160,000. As the chain stretches, the timing slowly goes out, with an almost undiscernible loss of power and fuel efficiency to the day-to-day driver. The change is really only evident when the timing chain is replaced, - most owners report the improvement is dramatic. A first check is fairly simple: remove the oil cap and using a simple hook, or even a screwdriver, lift the chain as it runs over the cam sprocket in the front of the cam cover. You shouldn't be able to lift it hardly at all. Another (small) possibility, is that the diff lock is engaged (Can this be done in high range?) and the noise and lack of power are due to wind-up in the transmission. On the other hand, this noise would not be affected by differences in acceleration. It would, however, very quickly lead to serious damage to the transmission. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16295 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:44 Post subject: |
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andyman wrote: |
...... Another (small) possibility, is that the diff lock is engaged (Can this be done in high range?) and the noise and lack of power are due to wind-up in the transmission. On the other hand, this noise would not be affected by differences in acceleration. It would, however, very quickly lead to serious damage to the transmission. |
High range Difflock can be engaged on roads, whilst moving at up to 37Mph (60kph). As mentioned on this 2007 info post for new owners:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=18735
Note though that the Orange Difflock warning light would come on. From experience I can also say that if you attempt it at speeds greater than 37-39 the resultant grating noise and reduced forward impetus would warn you about it. _________________
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 19:18 Post subject: |
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So it wouldn't be that then, as I have driven hundreds of miles at between 50-60 with it.
Also, there are no lights showing on the superselect panel. I can check the cam chain easily enough by the aounds of it. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 19:46 Post subject: |
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annek wrote: |
A) So it wouldn't be that then, as I have driven hundreds of miles at between 50-60 with it.
B) Also, there are no lights showing on the superselect panel. I can check the cam chain easily enough by the aounds of it. |
A) Shouldn't be which The chain as mentioned by Andy, or Diff lock (Andy and Lewis)
B) Lewis has showed how to remove the dash board to check the bulbs. Have you done that
Some folks find it a daunting task to take out the dash, that is quite understandable.
Can you find another person/mechanic to do it for you Or would like me to do it for you.
If I do it, and find bulbs are blown, I would replace with LED's
And check that the "Floor" lever is selecting/deselecting 2/4 WD.
If you want, I can "talk" you thro transmission checking, by phone. Please send PM for my number (I thought you had my number)
Mr D |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 20:03 Post subject: |
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Thanks Deker. Am reluctant to drive it far until I know whats the problem.
I didn't understand your 'shouldnt be which' |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 20:04 Post subject: |
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I'll also have a window to try remove the dash this week coming. |
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Deker
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 3833 Location: Borehamwood
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 20:31 Post subject: |
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annek wrote: |
I didn't understand your 'shouldnt be which' |
The timing chain. And the 4 WD lights
Mr D |
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annek
Joined: 06 Jul 2006 Posts: 613 Location: Brighton, East Sussex
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 23:13 Post subject: |
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So, it was the diff lock being engaged because I had driven hundreds of miles at speed in excess of quoted by andy and lewis |
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