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annek



Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 470
Location: Brighton, East Sussex

PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you accelerate, there are increased revs and consequent engine noise (revs), when you go up an incline you can hear the egine working harder, needing the increased revs, which is all normal.

When I accelerate the engine just makes more noise without the increase in power.  

I hate it, it sounds horrible and I don't want to push the engine.  Would it be a broken turbo?

I'd be bloody unlucky to have something like that go as well as everything else thats needed doing all at the same time, but I suppose it could.

That word was higher, I presume you couldn't work it out?  As in, the higher revs...
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:22    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Deker
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 21:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you suspect that the "Turbo" may be faulty, then -
There is a simple way to test the "Turbo" output.
AND test the Intercooler, for blockage's.

Does mean you may/will get your hands dirty.

1) Remove the hose that leads from the turbo, at the intercooler end.
In PARK, Handbrake ON. Start the engine, feel the rush of air from the disconnected hose.
There should be a reasonable air flow.

Have an assistant rev the engine to about 2,000 to just under 3,000 RPM.
The air rush from the hose should be quite significant, with noticeable pressure increase.

2) Now to test the intercooler for blockage.
Reconnect the hose from the turbo. Now disconnect the hose from the intercooler, the one that goes to the inlet manifold.
Do same test as above. The result's should be the same.

This test is NOT recommended for inexperienced  people. When I do these tests, I also remove the hose from the Turbo.
It can be highly dangerous, if you do not know what you are doing.

Mr D
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annek



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Code:
This test is NOT recommended for inexperienced  people


Very Happy  Confused

Is this really the test for me then?  It does sound like a great way forward, but its not something I've ever done before, so sounds like its something I shouldn't try.
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Deker
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 23:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only the bit about disconnecting the hose from the turbo. For your safety I recommend you DO NOT do that. With engine running.

Apart from being a bit messy (on an old engine) Doing the tests I suggest is okay at the Intercooler end.

I'll have a look if you want. Pick a nice day. No rain or heavy wind/s. I don't mind weather being cold.

And I'll see if I can work out the "lack of power" - - no guarantee tho.

HTH

Mr D
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 9:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your turbo is blown there will be a loss of power and lots of smoke on tick over and under load, also there will be an increase in oil consumption.

If you think this could be your issue, then investigate further, as it is possible that your engine can feed its combustion using its own engine oil, you can not turn it off it just runs at high revs until it blows up.....Google "runaway diesel".

New Chinese tf035 turbos are only £68 - I've had one for 18month.
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annek



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 17:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats really helpful Yoza, thanks.

There's definitely no increased smoke, no smoking when idling either, so those are good signs then and would indicate its not the turbo.

I did wonder whether continued high revs and strain put on the engine to reverse it uphill whilst turning destroying the dmf could do something like blow the turbo too, or something else.
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Deker
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 19:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

YOZA wrote:
as it is possible that your engine can feed its combustion using its own engine oil, you can not turn it off it just runs at high revs until it blows up.....Google "runaway diesel".

annek's car is Manual, therefore can stall engine by selecting top gear - - -

Mr D
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YOZA



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 19:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deker wrote:
YOZA wrote:
as it is possible that your engine can feed its combustion using its own engine oil, you can not turn it off it just runs at high revs until it blows up.....Google "runaway diesel".

annek's car is Manual, therefore can stall engine by selecting top gear - - -

Mr D


You’re right, it would either stall or do 0 to 60 in less than 3 seconds.  Shocked

Apparently on an auto you can pull the inter cooler inlet pipe off, but approaching a Diesel engine reving  at 16000 rpm takes balls.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 20:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any chance that it's a slack/worn/thrashy timing chain? They definitely lose power as the timing goes out when slack. Any input, Mark Broad?
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Deker
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 20:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy.

Annek sez the problem started after clutch, DMF change.
Surely that would not incur an immediate timing chain problem  Question

annek came to my place a couple of years back, I noted the noise emanating from the Bell housing.
Of course I had no idea what the noise was about, I assumed it was a rattly clutch fork, maybe the bearing.

It was the first manual L400 that I'de seen   Rolling Eyes   And I did not know the Delica had a DMF flywheel  Sad

I've made the offer to annek to pop over to my place, to see what I can work out.
However, Mark3 is a tad closer to annek, dunno if he would have look. That's up to annek to ask Mark3.

However, the main thing I may, or may not work out, is the 4 WD lights (Assuming annek has checked, or not, the dash bulbs)
I've not had problems with my 4 WD, so, a lot I do not know about the 4 WD (indication) system.

I do know how to test if 4 WD is working. As I pointed out in a previous post.
But the power loss, may be Mark3 speciality.

Mr D
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annek



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 23:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really grateful for all your thoughts and posts thank you.

Can I ask, at how many miles (average) would a timing chain be likely to slack off a bit, its a massive deal to tighten it right?  Mant of my 'miles' were actually kms of course so a bit difficult to gauge exactly.
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annek



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 23:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

The noise Deker, I can confidently say, was the dmf on its way out, as that start up judder has gone now, if thats what you meant.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

The timing chain has an automatically adjusting hydraulic tensioner, which will keep adjusting as the timing chain stretches with wear. This wear will generally be dependent on the oil change/ servicing regime the car has had over its life. Once the adjuster is fully extended, the  chain will become slacker. From many posts I've read on here, they will usually need changing anywhere between 100,000 and 250,000 miles, with an average around 160,000. As the chain stretches, the timing slowly goes out, with an almost undiscernible loss of power and fuel efficiency to the day-to-day driver. The change is really only evident when the timing chain is replaced, - most owners report the improvement is dramatic. A first check is fairly simple: remove the oil cap and using a simple hook, or even a screwdriver, lift the chain as it runs over the cam sprocket in the front of the cam cover. You shouldn't be able to lift it hardly at all. Another  (small) possibility, is that the diff lock is engaged (Can this be done in high range?) and the noise and lack of power are due to wind-up in the transmission. On the other hand, this noise would not be affected by differences in acceleration. It would, however, very quickly lead to serious damage to the transmission.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 10:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
...... Another  (small) possibility, is that the diff lock is engaged (Can this be done in high range?) and the noise and lack of power are due to wind-up in the transmission. On the other hand, this noise would not be affected by differences in acceleration. It would, however, very quickly lead to serious damage to the transmission.



High range Difflock can be engaged on roads, whilst moving at up to 37Mph (60kph). As mentioned on this 2007 info post for new owners:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=18735

Note though that the Orange Difflock warning light would come on.  From experience I can also say that if you attempt it at speeds greater than 37-39 the resultant grating noise and reduced forward impetus would warn you about it.  Rolling Eyes
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annek



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 19:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it wouldn't be that then, as I have driven hundreds of miles at between 50-60 with it.

Also, there are no lights showing on the superselect panel.  I can check the cam chain easily enough by the aounds of it.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 19:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

annek wrote:
A) So it wouldn't be that then, as I have driven hundreds of miles at between 50-60 with it.

B) Also, there are no lights showing on the superselect panel.  I can check the cam chain easily enough by the aounds of it.

A) Shouldn't be which  Question  The chain as mentioned by Andy, or Diff lock (Andy and Lewis)

B) Lewis has showed how to remove the dash board to check the bulbs. Have you done that  Question

Some folks find it a daunting task to take out the dash, that is quite understandable.
Can you find another person/mechanic to do it for you  Question  Or would like me to do it for you.

If I do it, and find bulbs are blown, I would replace with LED's
And check that the "Floor" lever is selecting/deselecting 2/4 WD.

If you want, I can "talk" you thro transmission checking, by phone. Please send PM for my number (I thought you had my number)

Mr D
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annek



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 20:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Deker.  Am reluctant to drive it far until I know whats the problem.

I didn't understand your 'shouldnt be which'  Question
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annek



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 20:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll also have a window to try remove the dash this week coming.
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Deker
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 20:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

annek wrote:
I didn't understand your 'shouldnt be which'  Question

The timing chain. And the 4 WD lights  Question   Question

Mr D
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annek



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 23:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, it was the diff lock being engaged because I had driven hundreds of miles at speed in excess of quoted by andy and lewis
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