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Relay clicking

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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 15:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just took the thermostat out and tested it in a pan of boiling water and its opens and closes fine
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Fostlongstrider
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Joined: 03 Mar 2008
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Location: Hedon, East Yorks

PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 21:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the water pump?
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Ian.

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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes the water pump seems fine I didn't take it out but its turning  fine. I only put a new one in last year
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 9:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you flushed the system?
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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 18:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've flushed it through with water about four times it keeps turning the water really brown. I'm going to put some rad flush through it try and get as much gunk out as possible. I had a leak a while back from core plugs and I put rad weld in maybe that has blocked it
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 23:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

ciaran15 wrote:
Right so I put in a new thermostat sensor and now the clicking is worse than before and the temp gauge is not even moving it's just sat at the bottom wtf is going on. I must have a loose wire or something. Any body any other ideas its driving me nuts I Can't drive around with this constant click click click lol


How very annoying Sad
Wiring issues - have you tried just testing continuity between the ends of the wires at the sensor and wherever they're going? At least that would rule out something like that...?
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

ciaran15 wrote:
I had a leak a while back from core plugs and I put rad weld in maybe that has blocked it

Quite likely....?  Sad
I hear the stuff isn't too kind, especially with old and already worn parts in the system. If the radiator was an issue before, I wouldn't be surprised if that's where your problem is?
To be honest, I would probably put a new one in - you really REALLY don't want these engines to overheat.
A new radiator is a whole lot cheaper than a new engine!
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 23:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alternatively (and an admission of defeat), you could find the relay supply wire and fit a switch in it, so you can switch it off when your engine has warmed up for a minute!
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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
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Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 9:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right I seem to have fixed the relay clicking. I disconnected the battery then re tightened up all connections and then cleaned the busbar and all electrical connections around thermostat sensor with contact cleaner and the mad clicking has gone thank fook.  So it looks like it was a wiring issue.

   Now my other problem overheating I have flushed the system with rad cleaner as thought it was gunked up. Water keeps turning rusty brown after every flush flushed about 6 times now. New radiator water pump thermostat was fitted not long ago. I noticed before that there was always a gurgling sound from around the dash. I presume this is the heater matrix should that be gurgling??
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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 9:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right I seem to have fixed the relay clicking. I disconnected the battery then re tightened up all connections and then cleaned the busbar and all electrical connections around thermostat sensor with contact cleaner and the mad clicking has gone thank fook.  So it looks like it was a wiring issue.

   Now my other problem overheating I have flushed the system with rad cleaner as thought it was gunked up. Water keeps turning rusty brown after every flush flushed about 6 times now. New radiator water pump thermostat was fitted not long ago. I noticed before that there was always a gurgling sound from around the dash. I presume this is the heater matrix should that be gurgling??
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not usually,
When you refilled did you have the heater on full heat?

However even if not it would not explain the cold bottom hose on the radiator.
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not usually,
When you refilled did you have the heater on full heat?

However even if not it would not explain the cold bottom hose on the radiator.
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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes had it on full heat. Bottom hose is stone cold radiator only heating until about half way down.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 23:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your radiator was not working correctly, the water would not cool to that extent, and would be exiting the radiator via the bottom hose still warm/hot. On tickover at this time of year, your radiator has no problem cooling the flow as it falls through the radiator. Does your heater blow hot?
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 17:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only other option is that your radiator is clogged up.
May have to remove it to clear it out if heavy duty rad flush doesn't work.
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Ian.

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'93 L300 Super Exceed  Corse Gray over Grace Silver.Auto.

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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 12:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay so I flushed with rad cleaner twice and filled up with coolant. Seems to have done the trick the heater is blowing warm air again waterpump is pumping coolant around and thermostat is fine. Only thing is I have fitted 2 brand new temperature thermostats on the engine block and I'm getting no reading now on the temperature gauge wtf is going on. I got the temp sensor from ebay maybe it's a dud. Just contacted the seller hes going to send me a new one hope that sorts it out.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 0:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lack of movement of the temp gauge needle on most L300s is a well known feature. If it gets to a third of the way up, stop immediately, let it cool off, and check your cooling system is full and working!
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Fostlongstrider
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 11:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Andy says L300s normally run with the needle at the lower mark just off the bottom, any higher, apart from going uphill for a while, and not coming back down on the flat means overheating. Which if it goes too high takes out the head gasket or the head.
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videovan



Joined: 27 Feb 2020
Posts: 1
Location: Vancouver

PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 0:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to chime in on the clicking relay issue. I had something similar myself - a relay under my seat would click constantly, but less constantly when I accelerated. After some searching I found it was a poor wiring connection to the glow plug relay. As to why the clicking was connecting to the rpm of the engine - I presume this had to do with the rate of current flow to the relay from the alternator? I sprayed all the relays and contacts with electrical contact cleaner and gave them a quick brush. Then reconnected it all up and haven't had the clicking issue since!
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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 225
Location: Omagh

PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 13:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job videovan....I still haven't got to the bottom of the clicking relay. It's still clicking like crazy. Vans been off the road lately. But I think I will try your method with the relays and contact cleaner.  Thanks for the info
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