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L300 jack stand points for rear axle/springs work


 
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 599
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:50    Post subject: L300 jack stand points for rear axle/springs work Reply with quote

If, say, hypothetically, I would want to remove the rear axle from my L300, where would it be best to place jack stands?

I've had a look through the workshop manuals but all references to jacking points I can find just use the rear axle itself to raise the vehicle, and the stands also go under the axle itself.
Obviously, if the axle itself is the object of this exercise, that is not an option.

I wonder about just aft of the rear spring hangers, but I think the shackles and rear bumper would get in the way...?
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:50    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
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Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 20:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take a look at this sticky post in the L300 Tech Faq forum. †Wink

L300 Jacking points

Note the bottom of the page.

HTH
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 0:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were newer, I would suggest the outriggers in front of the rear wheels, that connect the chassis to the sills, but these are often substantially weakened by corrosion, especially at the bottom. As so much of the weight of an L300 is forward of the midpoint, and the main chassis suffers very little from corrosion, main chassis just ahead of the front spring hangers would appear to be a good place, or even the cross frame just ahead of the spare wheel, with suitable plywood pads to spread the load.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 599
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 15:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lewis wrote:
Take a look at this sticky post in the L300 Tech Faq forum. †Wink

L300 Jacking points

Note the bottom of the page.

HTH


Oops  Embarassed Thanks Lewis...  Smile

andyman wrote:

If it were newer, I would suggest the outriggers in front of the rear wheels, that connect the chassis to the sills, but these are often substantially weakened by corrosion, especially at the bottom. As so much of the weight of an L300 is forward of the midpoint, and the main chassis suffers very little from corrosion, main chassis just ahead of the front spring hangers would appear to be a good place, or even the cross frame just ahead of the spare wheel, with suitable plywood pads to spread the load.

Thanks Andy - yes I agree re. those outriggers. In fact, my N/S one was welded along the bottom just last year, so perhaps I'm not going to try there... The nearby chassis rail is a good idea, I may try that when the time comes.
As it is, I think I may have actually managed to once again "plug" the leak in the diff (which is why I was musing on how much of a pain in the **** changing the axle would be, and what would be involved)... Plus, given the latest MOT "advisory" on rusty rear springs, I may need to think about refurbing those in the future...
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 15:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

NB: Just for clarity that linked post does mention chassis point, not outriggers, as per use at the back of the front wishbones in the illustration to the left.  Wink
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 17:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

The difficulty is finding an accessible chassis jacking point at the rear that isn't going to cause problems when detaching the spring shackles. On the other hand, you can leave the springs in place and simply undo/snap/replace the U-bolts and saddles along with the axle. I say "simply" - LOL!
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 18:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
The difficulty is finding an accessible chassis jacking point at the rear that isn't going to cause problems when detaching the spring shackles.


Precisely. Like I was saying, this is currently entirely hypothetical, but I like to work these things out before I have to... I'm weird like that.  Shocked

Anyway, perhaps having jack stands below the front spring attachtment (I.e. resting on the "bracket" for the spring eye, not on the spring itself obvs) as per one of the
"official" points suggested in the manual would do it. I suppose it would at least allow the spring bolt to be undone, and then hopefully the spring "slid" out from the bracket...
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 22:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

jejoenje wrote:
I'm weird like that. †Shocked


That makes, at least, two of us.  Laughing
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andyman



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 23:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make that three' well most of the time, although I seem to have an increasing number of "DOH!" moments. Like finding that the last time I attempted to start my scythe mower, I took the plug out and rested it on the cylinder head while checking for a spark. That was last year. Having a fantastic crop of docks ready for harvesting (LOL), went to get it started today. It's siezed solid! DOH! bandhead
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PinkPig
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Joined: 05 Aug 2004
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Location: Southampton, UK

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 13:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm trying to remember what happened with mine.
I think mine was jacked up on the axle then lowered gently onto axle stands on the sills (with timber load spreaders along the length of the sill) so the wheels were back down on the floor (well ramp), but the springs were not taking any body weight so the spring bolts could be undone, shackle end first. The axle could then be  rolled out and have the springs changed.

Don't forget the heaviest item at the rear is the axle and spring combo - with the rear axle off the the fulcrum point is much nearer the front.
Take the propshaft and brake lines and handbrake cable off before you start.
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