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Foaming coolant

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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16291
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2019 15:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heads made in a single steel are usually cut using a Poly Crystalline Diamond tool (PCD), when you get mixed metals (some have hardened steel inserts as well as the ceramic precombustion chamber liners) they use a grinding tool that can cope with both metals, usually Cubic Boron Nitride (CBN). The CBN crystals are bonded together and fitted around the edge of a double sided tool using ceramic materials. CBN itself is as hard as diamond and unfortunately the ceramic inserts tend to crack when being ground. Even if they don't the skimmed edge no longer has a coated/bonded edge, allowing stuff to get in between them and the cylinder head metal.

One thing not to do though is skimp when you come to replacing a head. If you intend to keep the Deli then get a good quality one. When I did mine, on my previous Deli, I opted for one with no ceramic inserts in it, along with new pistons and rings. That also did away with the neccessity to match the gasket thickness for the piston head size. Bear in mind that even though the thickness taken off the head is minimal there is always a chance for the top of the piston to hit the head if the gasket is not thick enough. Fit a gasket that is too thick and you are increasing the gap between the head and the block, so increasing the potential for some movement. Fortunately the bolts are long enough to cope with a thicker gasket so won't need to get longer ones, though may need a different torque setting than standard.
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Last edited by Lewis on Fri May 10, 2019 8:35; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2019 15:21    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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phluke



Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 52
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 21:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worst fears confirmed, garage confirmed head is cracked.

So, now sourcing parts. As well as the head, mechanic said I need to get a complete top end kit too (manifold seals, rocker seals etc), but as I'm getting a new fully assembled head I'm wondering if any of that be surplus to requirements? ie. already comes with the head? There's a full engine gasket set I've seen for £60 so thinking it might be cheaper to buy the lot and save for future use.

As for head gasket itself, will get mitsubishi one but need to check thickness with garage. If the one that came off wasn't original and notched am I right in assuming I should get the thickest one Mitsubishi do?

Mitsubishi bolts too or can I get a quality other brand set?

Any other recommendations I ought to know about?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, it's going to be a pricey week!
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 17:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bad luck - hopefully you will have a long period of reliability and enjoyment.
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phluke



Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 52
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 20:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

One week later and new head is fitted and apparently working fine, except garage informed me today that one of the hoses that come out of the rear of the head has a large slit in it and is leaking coolant quite readily.

I haven't been able to get over there to see it myself yet but garage have said it's a smaller diameter hose that comes off a t-piece and heads downwards somewhere. The t-piece itself has a hose that connects to the head just below a core plug towards the rear of the head.

Came across a post on here from 2012  that seems to refer to the same heater hose MR115593, I'm guessing this is probably only available from mitsubishi?

Whilst annoying that the van is still out of action I am wondering if this could be the 'smoking gun' to the original overheating episode.
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 22:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Strikes me as bad engineering to allow no tolerance for skimming in the design of the head.

The "Inserts" are clamped/held down by the head, onto the gasket, to prevent them becoming loose,
that was how it used to be "in the old days" - Dunno about "these days"  Question

Mr D
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phluke



Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 52
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 12:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the hose in question. Mechanic thinks its a heater hose that dives off to the heater matrix but he's not sure and main dealer not being very useful either.

First pic identifying the hose and the second to put it in context within the engine.

I've got an exploded diagram but I'm afraid it's not making a lot of sense to me, does anyone know the part no. for it, desperate to get back on the road.





thanks
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16291
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 18:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

The two hoses from the T pipe are prone to splits and the T pipe itself does get micro holes in it.

You'll find the link near the start of this post shows you the parts diagram and then near the end are the part numbers for the two hoses:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=48783

HTH
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Last edited by Lewis on Sun May 19, 2019 18:45; edited 1 time in total
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phluke



Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 52
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 13:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lewis
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