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Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK™ Mitsubishi Delica L300, L400 and D:5 Owners Club
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jejoenje
Joined: 20 Aug 2016 Posts: 785 Location: Alloa, Scotland
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Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 21:58 Post subject: Removing water temp sensor |
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This may be ill-advised, but I would like to test (and possibly replace) the water temperature sensor (the one that read temps to go to the ECU and pre-glow).
Sits near no. 1 injector in the front of the cylinder head.
Looks like this and like this in situ.
This is a silly question, but has anyone here removed this succesfully?
I've just had a half-hearted go, but it doesn't seem to budge even the slightest bit, and the socket is actually starting to round the top edges of the nut...
And I REALLY don't fancy properly rounding this particular nut... for obvious reasons!
It's odd, as I'm pretty sure it's a 17mm nut but my (deep) socket seems to be slipping ever so slightly... I've had loads of penetrating oil on it already.
Any suggestions? Impact driver would normally be my go-to but I'm worried about that here... _________________ 1992 L300 Exceed "Selma" |
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Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 21:58 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16299 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 22:44 Post subject: |
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Use a six sided socket. They do not tend to round off the flats like the one with multiple slots.
Slightly tighten it before undoing it.
HTH _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス |
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jejoenje
Joined: 20 Aug 2016 Posts: 785 Location: Alloa, Scotland
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 8:49 Post subject: |
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I only own 6-sided ones for precisely that reason...!
Have also tried tightening slightly...
Perhaps the socket I have is a poor quality, badly fitting one, but I'm not sure... _________________ 1992 L300 Exceed "Selma" |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16299 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 9:16 Post subject: |
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I have some sockets from different suppliers that are slightly loose compared with others of the same size.
Do you have a right-angled adjustable spanner ? It should only need a 1/2 turn or so, to loosen it. Torque value is 7-11ftlb.
NB: You can electrically test it without removing it. _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス
Last edited by Lewis on Tue May 07, 2019 9:36; edited 1 time in total |
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jejoenje
Joined: 20 Aug 2016 Posts: 785 Location: Alloa, Scotland
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 9:35 Post subject: |
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I was wondering about a swivel-type spanner. I don't have one, and certainly could use this as an excuse to get one...
However, I don't think there would be enough clearance for one even with a swivel.
Between the injector, head bolt, and engine bracket pretty much the only thing that would fit is a socket... It's awfully tight in there! _________________ 1992 L300 Exceed "Selma" |
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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jejoenje
Joined: 20 Aug 2016 Posts: 785 Location: Alloa, Scotland
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 20:09 Post subject: |
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Ah - good idea re. trying when warm. I may give this a go. I'm away much of the rest of the week but will report back.
I was also thinking about the inside edges of the socket I have. It's almost as if when turning, the socket sort of twists itself partially upwards, if that makes sense...
Also, Lewis, good point re. testing it in situ. I've had another look at the manual and have now measured resistance to ground for "terminal B",
i.e, the one for the glow system.
Got the following -
When stone cold (i.e. in the morning) - 4.47 kOhm (listed value is 3.24 +/- 0.33 at 20 C)
When warm (normal driving for an hour) - 440 Ohm (listed value is 300 Ohm at 80C).
"Cold" would have been colder than 20C (this morning would have been closer to 10 C!), and I suspect I wouldn't have been at 80 C when
parking up.
So I suspect this means the sensor is working as intended, which may mean I can just leave it where it is! (In the spirit of if it ain't broke don't fix it!)
As a bit of background, I realise this is off-topic, but the reason for my interest in it, is that I am having (wait for it!) starting issues again!
A while ago I fitted a bypass switch for the glow relays - it operates the 12v solenoid, to try and aid starting on very cold mornings.
However, in spite of this more or less working for a while, I've now started having issues again. Possibly related, possibly not, but a few days
ago the battery gave up completely.
Had this tested and came up as being fooked, so put a new one in yesterday (ouch £££).
However, starting issues still there. In fact, while previously there has always been at least one relay click after a 2-6 seconds (as expected,
for the 12v "high" glow), lately there have been occasions where there was no first click at all when first turning the key to ignition on. In fact,
the very same thing happened this morning, with the engine completely cold.
No click when turning the key to ignition, at all. Using the manual override switch for 4-5 seconds, and then cranking, started it okay, but only
after quite a few seconds of cranking, much more so than usual - plus then lots of white smoke and shuddering for good measure.
This evening, first starting there was a couple of relay clicks initially, but with the relay clicking "off" again after no more than 3 seconds.
Considering I would probably call this a stone cold engine again, that seems plain wrong!
Cranked immediately, as an experiment, and although it did catch, it took a LOT of throttle and a good few seconds.
So, my current hope is that one or more of the plugs have given up again. I've ordered some new ones. To be honest, I've never been happy
with the ones I got of Milner's a few years ago; the fact that they had to be fitted with an oddball extra resistor for some reason doesn't fill me
with confidence.
Perhaps more importantly, I'm puzzled as to why the plugs having died would cause the relay timing to have gone bananas... I don't really
understand the logic of the ECU - I remember reading somewhere that if the resistance on the plugs is "wrong" it can start throwing its toys
out of the pram. It would be nice to know/see the code running it. Hence my interest in the water temp sensor...
Anyway. Rant over. I will report back when I've got some new plugs in. _________________ 1992 L300 Exceed "Selma" |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 21:19 Post subject: |
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Fingers crossed that the right (new) plugs will restore Selma's previous good habits! _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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vintdiesel
Joined: 05 Dec 2005 Posts: 131 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 23:25 Post subject: |
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Quite correct. The glow plug ECU has a microprocessor in it and detects the connected load. It is extreme overkill for what it does.
If a plug has died, or they are replaced by ones that don't have the same temperature coefficient characteristics, the glow timer drops out too early.
I gutted my ECU and fitted my own timing circuit, but I have seen 3rd party glow plug timers that would also do the trick. _________________ Damian
1984 Delica 2.5TD Hyundai transplant |
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PinkPig Lifetime member
Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Posts: 2720 Location: Southampton, UK
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mouseflakes
Joined: 17 Jun 2012 Posts: 193 Location: Kendal
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2019 11:42 Post subject: |
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PinkPig wrote: |
The other option is to grind the end of a normal socket down to the gripping faces |
Indeed - I've done this to a few of my sockets - makes a big difference. _________________ 1992 L300 Super Exceed |
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jejoenje
Joined: 20 Aug 2016 Posts: 785 Location: Alloa, Scotland
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2019 14:31 Post subject: |
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Thanks very much all,
In the end I never needed to progress with trying to extract the water sensor, as it turns out it was definitely the glow plugs at fault.
Installed a full set of NGK Y-115 R1 for £8.99 each, which I thought was really reasonable.
As it turns out, ALL starting issues I had previously must have been the wrong plugs installed in the first place, as Selma has never
started better! Substantial time between the initial relay (12v) clicking "off" and first turning the key, and no shaking or smoking at all.
Moral of the story, if you have the "super quick glow system" I wouldn't recommend these (what I fitted a few years ago), rather go for the 6v NGK's as above!
Thanks also for the tip on grinding down sockets - sounds like a good idea and I will definitely do this in the future. _________________ 1992 L300 Exceed "Selma" |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5602 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2019 19:58 Post subject: |
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Hooray! I knew/hoped it would be "summat and nout". (That's the Big Deli Grin,BTW, - how I picture you are looking right now! _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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