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Removing water temp sensor


 
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
Posts: 785
Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 21:58    Post subject: Removing water temp sensor Reply with quote

This may be ill-advised, but I would like to test (and possibly replace) the water temperature sensor (the one that read temps to go to the ECU and pre-glow).
Sits near no. 1 injector in the front of the cylinder head.
Looks like this and like this in situ.

This is a silly question, but has anyone here removed this succesfully?
I've just had a half-hearted go, but it doesn't seem to budge even the slightest bit, and the socket is actually starting to round the top edges of the nut...
And I REALLY don't fancy properly rounding this particular nut... for obvious reasons!  Shocked
It's odd, as I'm pretty sure it's a 17mm nut but my (deep) socket seems to be slipping ever so slightly... I've had loads of penetrating oil on it already.

Any suggestions? Impact driver would normally be my go-to but I'm worried about that here...
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 22:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a six sided socket. They do not tend to round off the flats like the one with multiple slots.

Slightly tighten it before undoing it.

HTH
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 8:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only own 6-sided ones for precisely that reason...!  Smile

Have also tried tightening slightly...

Perhaps the socket I have is a poor quality, badly fitting one, but I'm not sure...
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 9:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have some sockets from different suppliers that are slightly loose compared with others of the same size.
Do you have a right-angled adjustable spanner ? It should only need a 1/2 turn or so, to loosen it. Torque value is 7-11ftlb.

NB: You can electrically test it without removing it.
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Last edited by Lewis on Tue May 07, 2019 9:36; edited 1 time in total
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 9:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering about a swivel-type spanner. I don't have one, and certainly could use this as an excuse to get one...

However, I don't think there would be enough clearance for one even with a swivel.
Between the injector, head bolt, and engine bracket pretty much the only thing that would fit is a socket... It's awfully tight in there!  Rolling Eyes
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 13:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried with the engine warm (not boiling!)

Also, I had a similar problem with the transfer case filler and had to source a socket with no internal chamfer as that was reducing the contact area and rounding the nut. I think I found one from an impact wrench set.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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Location: Alloa, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 20:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah - good idea re. trying when warm. I may give this a go. I'm away much of the rest of the week but will report back.
I was also thinking about the inside edges of the socket I have. It's almost as if when turning, the socket sort of twists itself partially upwards, if that makes sense...

Also, Lewis, good point re. testing it in situ. I've had another look at the manual and have now measured resistance to ground for "terminal B",
i.e, the one for the glow system.
Got the following -
When stone cold (i.e. in the morning) - 4.47 kOhm (listed value is 3.24 +/- 0.33 at 20 C)
When warm (normal driving for an hour) - 440 Ohm (listed value is 300 Ohm at 80C).
"Cold" would have been colder than 20C (this morning would have been closer to 10 C!), and I suspect I wouldn't have been at 80 C when
parking up.
So I suspect this means the sensor is working as intended, which may mean I can just leave it where it is! (In the spirit of if it ain't broke don't fix it!)

As a bit of background, I realise this is off-topic, but the reason for my interest in it, is that I am having (wait for it!) starting issues again!  Rolling Eyes

A while ago I fitted a bypass switch for the glow relays - it operates the 12v solenoid, to try and aid starting on very cold mornings.
However, in spite of this more or less working for a while, I've now started having issues again. Possibly related, possibly not, but a few days
ago the battery gave up completely.
Had this tested and came up as being fooked, so put a new one in yesterday (ouch £££).

However, starting issues still there. In fact, while previously there has always been at least one relay click after a 2-6 seconds (as expected,
for the 12v "high" glow), lately there have been occasions where there was no first click at all when first turning the key to ignition on. In fact,
the very same thing happened this morning, with the engine completely cold.
No click when turning the key to ignition, at all. Using the manual override switch for 4-5 seconds, and then cranking, started it okay, but only
after quite a few seconds of cranking, much more so than usual - plus then lots of white smoke and shuddering for good measure.
This evening, first starting there was a couple of relay clicks initially, but with the relay clicking "off" again after no more than 3 seconds.
Considering I would probably call this a stone cold engine again, that seems plain wrong!
Cranked immediately, as an experiment, and although it did catch, it took a LOT of throttle and a good few seconds.

So, my current hope is that one or more of the plugs have given up again. I've ordered some new ones. To be honest, I've never been happy
with the ones I got of Milner's a few years ago; the fact that they had to be fitted with an oddball extra resistor for some reason doesn't fill me
with confidence.
Perhaps more importantly, I'm puzzled as to why the plugs having died would cause the relay timing to have gone bananas... I don't really
understand the logic of the ECU - I remember reading somewhere that if the resistance on the plugs is "wrong" it can start throwing its toys
out of the pram. It would be nice to know/see the code running it. Hence my interest in the water temp sensor...

Anyway. Rant over. I will report back when I've got some new plugs in.  Smile
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andyman



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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 21:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fingers crossed that the right (new) plugs will restore Selma's previous good habits!
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vintdiesel



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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 23:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite correct.  The glow plug ECU has a microprocessor in it and detects the connected load. It is extreme overkill for what it does.

If a plug has died, or they are replaced by ones that don't have the same temperature coefficient characteristics, the glow timer drops out too early.

I gutted my ECU and fitted my own timing circuit, but I have seen 3rd party glow plug timers that would also do the trick.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2019 13:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

jejoenje wrote:

I was also thinking about the inside edges of the socket I have. It's almost as if when turning, the socket sort of twists itself partially upwards, if that makes sense...


Yes that was my issue with the slight internal chamfer, which is useful for locating sockets on a standard size nut but not so useful on a shallow nut.
The other option is to grind the end of a normal socket down to the gripping faces
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mouseflakes



Joined: 17 Jun 2012
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 11:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

PinkPig wrote:
The other option is to grind the end of a normal socket down to the gripping faces


Indeed - I've done this to a few of my sockets - makes a big difference.
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jejoenje



Joined: 20 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 14:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks very much all,

In the end I never needed to progress with trying to extract the water sensor, as it turns out it was definitely the glow plugs at fault.
Installed a full set of NGK Y-115 R1 for £8.99 each, which I thought was really reasonable.
As it turns out, ALL starting issues I had previously must have been the wrong plugs installed in the first place, as Selma has never
started better! Substantial time between the initial relay (12v) clicking "off" and first turning the key, and no shaking or smoking at all.

Moral of the story, if you have the "super quick glow system" I wouldn't recommend these (what I fitted a few years ago), rather go for the 6v NGK's as above!

Thanks also for the tip on grinding down sockets - sounds like a good idea and I will definitely do this in the future.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 19:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hooray! I knew/hoped it would be "summat and nout". Very Happy (That's the Big Deli Grin,BTW, - how I picture you are looking right now!
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