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Staying in 2nd way too long? Bit sluggish

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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 13:43    Post subject: Staying in 2nd way too long? Bit sluggish Reply with quote

I seem to be having an issue with my Delica [2.8 Diesel 1994 Automatic], it seems to me like it is staying in 2nd way too long, most of the time at 3k revs. The other gears seems fine, cruises fine in top gear.  Seems a bit sluggish on take off from junction too.  Is there some sort of sensor issue or ATF issue I need to be looking at?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 13:43    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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mouseflakes



Joined: 17 Jun 2012
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Location: Kendal

PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 16:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

First thing to do is check the ATF level and condition. Not sure about the L400, but on most autos I've had it's checked when hot and with the engine running. I'm sure there will be posts on here describing the process for the L400. Check the colour of the ATF - should be nice and pink. If it's going brown or grey then it needs a change of fluid.
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Deker
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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 19:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

stripyone.

Have you tried different positions on the A/T switch.

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YOZA



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 20:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adjust your TPS to suit your driving preference.

Lots of info here on how to do it.
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 23:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I am new to automatics so let me try and get my head round this; with relation to the A/T switch, I am assuming level is auto, up is power and down is snow/loose ground? So I am guessing I should try the power mode and see how it goes?  I am assuming this can be engaged whilst driving with a brief release of the accelerator pedal?

As for the ATF fluid, I am going to be swapping out the radiator/expansion tank and water pump so I am thinking I will change the ATF fluid when I do that anyway as I have to take off the ATF pipes from the rad.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2019 7:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

stripyone wrote:
Ok, I am new to automatics so let me try and get my head round this; with relation to the A/T switch, I am assuming level is auto, up is power and down is snow/loose ground?


Yes, Yes and No.

See this post for a full explanation of the A/T Switch usage:- †http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=18735
See this post for info on adjusting the TPS:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43295

HTH
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 13:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, minor development with the issue and I am a bit stuck as to what can be the cause. It stalled at a junction the other day about five minutes after starting, took it about 30 seconds to get it to turn over again but after that it has not stalled again. It is still very sluggish and seems to be lacking in power regardless of gear. †I did look into whether it might be the dreaded fuel pump seal, but mechanics have been telling me if it has no trouble starting this cannot be the issue? †I am wandering whether it is maybe a lift pump/fuel filter issue?
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
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Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 13:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

A/T switch didn't seem to improve anything and ATF on dipstick seems nice and pink with no contaminants.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 22:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark 3 (Broad) would tell you how often, when the pump seal is leaking, they will start first time, and cut out a few hundred yards down the road. Then, when you finally get it restarted, it will run fine for the rest of the journey, or even all day. On the L400, if the front seal is leaking, diesel will run down the inside of the timing chain case, and get into the sump. Check if your oil smells of diesel, or if the oil level is rising. A stretched timing chain or faulty turbo will cause sluggish performance. A mechanic should be able to check your turbo boost. A slack/stretched timing produces a chuffing sound under load.
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
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Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 0:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am beginning to think that maybe it is a problem with the turbo, as there is some oil residue in the intercooler pipes and a bit of an oil leak below which I thought was from the oil filter which was going to be replaced.  I was going to take off the bash plates and try and locate where the oil is coming from tommorrow, I did some searching on the forums but all the threads that relate to the turbo have expired pictures that don't load from photobucket/hosting.  Could anyone share/link me some pictures that show  the places to check for leaks for a turbo issue?
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YOZA



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 12:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

They all have oil in and around the intercooler and pipework, if you don't have a boost gauge to check performance then place your finger on the impeller shaft and check for movement in X and Y.

If moverment exceeds +/- 1mm in each axis then the shaft/bearings are worn....(on a cold and non running engine.)

I've seen bad ones including mine were the turbine blades had left a mark on the turbo cast, and one were my turbine actually fell to bits, it still ran though. Shocked

I have rebuilt a turbo with a re-build kit, it ran well for ages, thers is a post somewhere, also I have replaced a turbo with an extremely inexpensive chinese unit which is still running stong today, again there is a post somewhere.

A turbo issue won't cause your van from stalling like you explained.
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
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Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 14:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found the source of the oil leak, don't know if that would cause a power issue or not though, Seems to be where the transmission meets the part by the oil sump. I have images but it won't let me put in links.
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Deker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 14:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

First place to look for that leak, is the back of the Rocker Cover.

Mr D
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 22:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

That section is the Bell Housing, which contains the flywheel. †Right at the bottom is a small drain hole, where it faces the plate connecting it to the engine block. If oil is coming from inside that hole then check the flywheel inspection plate, on the front of the bell housing below the sump.

If oil is coming from inside of that then it can only be leaking from the rear crankshaft seal, which needs to be replaced before further use. If you don't then you risk the seal blowing out, dumping all the oil, causing the engine to seize.

As Deker says though first check the back of the rocker cover, for a leak from the rear Halfmoon seal, the rocker cover seal, or one from the head gasket, most likely around the exhaust manifold area.

HTH
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 13:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, will have an inspection, also having a guy look at it tomorrow.  The guy I bought it from had been hiding the leak, when I originally went looking for the leak , I removed the bash plates and found a load of cloth stuffed up between the bell housing and the bash plate  which was catching any dripping oil, which eventually must have been too much to hold over time and began dripping, which made me go looking for it. Evil or Very Mad Probably in for a huge repair bill Sad
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 21:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fingers crossed it's just the half moon. Lewis changed his rear crank seal in the middle of nowhere in Spain, ballache, but it can be done.
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
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Location: Corwen

PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 12:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there someone I can link an image too? As the forums will not allow me to post a link to an image.  It seems to me like I have a belt missing and looks like it has never been there since buying it.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 13:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may find the info and photos on this post helpful:- http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49537

HTH
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stripyone



Joined: 18 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 22:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah ok, yeah it doesn't have an air con belt, better add that to my list then Confused
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 22:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before buying a belt make sure there is gas in the system, as it could be that there is a fault with it.
A faulty aircon can cost a lot of money to fix, so a prvious owner could hqve removed the belt rather than fix the fault.  Wink

First thing to look for are air bubbles in the reservoir sight glass.

HTH
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