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Converting Crystal Lite to Pop Top


 
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Overland Hobo



Joined: 10 Jun 2018
Posts: 17
Location: Eastbourne

PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 21:35    Post subject: Converting Crystal Lite to Pop Top Reply with quote

Hi all

We haven't bought our Delica yet but will by September (hopefully) and I have 4-5 months to convert to a camper before a trip around the world (i know, there are a few doing it by the looks of it).

Call up camper conversion companies and looking online (including this forum), I have struggled to find examples of people converting a crystal lite to a pop top due I think to the sun roofs.

Question - can someone tell me that they know of a L400 crystal lite that has been converted to a pop top successfully?

the answer will pretty much determine whether we rule out crystal lites or not.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Joel
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 18:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

May be a lot simpler and economical to take a rugged tent and accessories.

Round the World trip will also require some spares, tools, fuel can/s, and an extra spare wheel.

I think I would go for a "Top Box" for storage. AND a LWB Delica.

I struggle for space,  Sad   just camping in my Deli - with all the seats in place.

Just my opinion.

Mr D
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Green Grouch
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Joined: 14 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 21:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try contacting these people

http://www.jalimports.co.uk/mitsubishi-Delica-camper.html

I now have a high roof tin top, eg no crystalites.  

It's out of my budget now, but I'm sure I've read of a company doing the conversion for 2k.   Sad

I can really see the use of a pop top now but that would mean some special work and strengthening to continue using a roof rack. Anything is possible though.
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mouseflakes



Joined: 17 Jun 2012
Posts: 193
Location: Kendal

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 22:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the glass roof Delis I think you're limited in your choice of tops. The depth of steel panel between the lower edge of the glass and the roof gutter isn't that great and presumably you'll need a top where the sides 'seal down' onto this area. That will also require the front and rear edges to contour with a good fit over the curve of the roof. I reckon a solid roof is a better start point, since you'll have more options to make an aperture that suits the tops that are out there.
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Overland Hobo



Joined: 10 Jun 2018
Posts: 17
Location: Eastbourne

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 0:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys. Thanks for your help, and thanks mouseflakes for breaking it down and I see your point regarding the curved edge.
Righto, we shall solely hunt for a flat roof! Hopefully we can get one that's right in the next couple of months.

Cheers all
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 13:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't go for the flat roof, it has two extra supports across the middle to stop the sides bowing out.

You need the high roof, without the Crystal Lite windows or sun roof options.






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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 18:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the extra supports were because the flat roof has no depth to give it rigidity. I don't think the sides are any different on a high roof. I think Pink Pig had to fix stiffeners around his (flat) roof aperture. It's worth reading his very detailed account of how he converted his and made the mould for his pop top, even without the benefit of his original pictures. Shame he scrapped the mould - no space to keep it. I reckon it wouldn't be too hard to make a mould out of plywood, reinforced with an outside frame, and use guttering to radius the inside corners. Lay in some 2" x 1/2" reinforcing laths into the fibreglass about 3" up from the lower finished edge (make that edge drop onto the moulding where the bottom edge of the roof windows started, and fit a generous soft rubber seal to the lower, finished edge all round. Pink Pig used gas struts to make lifting the roof easier.
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 16:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was a member called "Hawk" who converted a crystalite roof to pop top years ago, quite a lot of stuff to remove.
Mine was a low roof, no sun roof and very easy to cut a hole in the tin roof and remove the two centre cross struts that are only bolted in. Loads of strengthening already around the sides of the roof as it is effectively a box section so don't cut all the way to the edge.

Links in my signature to the project
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/__PinkPig___/

A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...


Last edited by PinkPig on Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:15; edited 1 time in total
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Overland Hobo



Joined: 10 Jun 2018
Posts: 17
Location: Eastbourne

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 20:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lewis wrote:
Don't go for the flat roof, it has two extra supports across the middle to stop the sides bowing out.

You need the high roof, without the Crystal Lite windows or sun roof options.



OMG this is the most helpful set pics in all my conversion researching.

Right, we are picking up a L400 Space Gear high top tomorrow. Your top pic is the roof we are getting.

I am just trying to find a compatible poptop to slap on it now - I'd rather not have one made

Cheers
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Overland Hobo



Joined: 10 Jun 2018
Posts: 17
Location: Eastbourne

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 20:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
I thought the extra supports were because the flat roof has no depth to give it rigidity. I don't think the sides are any different on a high roof. I think Pink Pig had to fix stiffeners around his (flat) roof aperture. It's worth reading his very detailed account of how he converted his and made the mould for his pop top, even without the benefit of his original pictures. Shame he scrapped the mould - no space to keep it. I reckon it wouldn't be too hard to make a mould out of plywood, reinforced with an outside frame, and use guttering to radius the inside corners. Lay in some 2" x 1/2" reinforcing laths into the fibreglass about 3" up from the lower finished edge (make that edge drop onto the moulding where the bottom edge of the roof windows started, and fit a generous soft rubber seal to the lower, finished edge all round. Pink Pig used gas struts to make lifting the roof easier.


Even though I've not gone for the crystal lite, I will still have a curve to deal with on the sides.

Do you have a picture of what you are explaining above? With the seals etc - Sorry I'm new to this sort of thing.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5602
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 22:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, Hobo, I could draw a diagram, but it would take me some time, and I can't do pictures on here. There are suppliers of all sorts of profiles of flexible seals, it's a case of finding the right one to fit all around the lower edge of your pop-top. The stiffening laths need to be the length of the pop-top sides, but set a little way above the lower edge so they don't get in the way of the rim of the cut out in the steel roof or the rubber seal.
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 17:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
1) Sorry, Hobo, I could draw a diagram, but it would take me some time,

2) and I can't do pictures on here.


2) Yes you can, it has been explained to you a few times.

I'm a numpty when it it comes "signing up" to s/w, there's at least 3 where I could not make it work -
A Delica club, when trying to "sign up", got it a little bit wrong - Msg back to me "YOU ARE PERMANENTLY BARRED"
My phone provider, couldn't make that work. Finally, the company I work for, Driver Portal (forum) same again  Sad

cubeupload was quite easy  :D

1) How would you show a diagram, if you cannot show pictures  Question   = me :?

Mr D
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 18:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cubeupload didn't work for me. I can put pictures (and of diagrams) on FB. Time poor at the moment. Perfect storm of financial c**p, and now the Deli's rack seals have leaked out all the fluid, and a bellows is split. Gonna order a 2nd hand rack and flush and top up including Wynn's AT/Steering Leak seal. Needs to be driveable for Disserth meet!
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 21:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Cubeupload didn't work for me. I can put pictures (and of diagrams) on FB.

cubeupload was down for a time, to my knowledge its up N running now, try again.

FB Trouble with fb, it seems impossible to back track easily. On here, posts are kept in a chronological and "easier"  Question  order to find.

I cannot find the June Lakes meet on fb.  Sad

Andy, try cubeupload again.

Mr D.
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 21:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Deker, I just assumed it was the same IT incompetence I've had since I first touched a computer 30 years ago.
Anyway, the good news is, after draining and cleaning both rack bellows, the rack ends and polishing off the minimal
rust spots on it with 800 grade wet and dry, and topping up with ATF, it seems to lose only a couple of drops through
the seals when turning from lock to lock several times. So I put copious amounts of red grease in/on rack ends and
bellows, and clipped them back on. I'm confident that it will complete the Wales meet without mishap, or leaving a
dangerous slick on the road. I must have checked and topped up the fluid when I repaired the rusty pipe last year,
but I couldn't remember exactly where the reservoir was. It is, in fact, easily accessible through the hatch behind the
driver's seat (Ian). I'll pack 500cc of ATF just to be sure - it took about half that to replenish. I'll do a proper job when
I get back, and before Adventure Overland (late September.)
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Deker



Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 3833
Location: Borehamwood

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 18:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
Cheers Deker, I just assumed it was the same IT incompetence I've had since I first touched a computer 30 years ago.

Anyway, the good news is, after draining and cleaning both rack bellows, the rack ends and polishing off the minimal
rust spots on it with 800 grade wet and dry, and topping up with ATF, it seems to lose only a couple of drops through
the seals when turning from lock to lock several times.

Hey Up. thought this thread was about Converting Crystal Lite to Pop Top

Mr D
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