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L300 Radiator Removal and Replacement


 
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 22:32    Post subject: L300 Radiator Removal and Replacement Reply with quote

Hi All,

Quick guide to replacing the radiator on an L300 (manual 1988)

1. First remove the drivers seat (4 bolts, 12mm socket)

2. Remove floor pan beneath seat.
Have a read of this thread - but you do not need to remove the handbrake or fuel filler release.
http://www.MDOCUK.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20067

Let the handbrake off (chock the wheels first!) then remove all the bolts from the floor panel as described in Bruce's thread and move the panel gently to one side enough so the radiator can be lifted out.
Note the awkward bolt under the bonnet hinge area - had to use a spanner



3. Drain the radiator - there should be a drain screw/tap bottom passenger side. Remove radiator cap to allow it to flow quicker.

4. undo the bottom and top hoses from the radiator - mine had jubilee clips with bolt heads 10mm socket.

5. remove the pipe from the filler cap to the expansion tank

6. remove the round cowling - this has a screw and clip top middle to remove first, then rotate the two parts of the cowling away from each other and they will come out of the clips. jiggle them out around the fan.

7. Remove the bolt holding the top middle of the radiator. 12mm socket. catch the rubber bushes as you'll need these!



You should now be able to lift the radiator up and out now.
Make a cuppa. Wink

8. Remove the other part of the cowling from the old radiator and fit it to the new one. Note my old radiator had studs attached, new one had threaded holes, so needed to find four bolts to attach it the cowl(M4 size I think)



Also swap the two rubber bushes on the bottom of the raditor and re-attach any cable clips / pipe clips (mine had one, I forgot, †Evil or Very Mad !)

9. Before you fit the new radiator - fill it with water and check for leaks/damage...just in case.

10. Follow steps 7->4 in reverse to fit radiator.

11. Fill with 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and run the engine up to circulate with the radiator cap off at first for a minute or so.
Boil the kettle on †Wink
Turn the engine off, top up again, and half fill the expansion chamber, put the radiator cap on. Run the engine til warm and check for leaks.
Make tea and stare at rust while the engine warms up.

12. All good? put the floor back, and the seat, check for any tools or debris in the engine bay, go for a spin. Then leave to cool and check the levels again in the morning.

Have I missed anything? (yes you could include flushing the engine, replacing the belts and water pump etc.etc...but it was cold!
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 22:32    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 22:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS.
This is the radiator I got. £75. Aluminium core, plastic header and bottom tanks.
http://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?id=MI806&model=L300&make=MITSUBISHI

Note that after phoning round, quite a lot of places don't list anything pre 1989 or import but after some research it seems this radiator fitting fits all L300 Diesels (2WD and 4WD) 1986-2000 or thereabouts and early Hyundai H100s so you've lots of choice if you know what to ask for (One place gave me five different prices for different years and models and its the same item  Rolling Eyes

Part numbers to be going on with:-
MB127772
MB356340
MB356341
MB356342
MB356378
MB605252
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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BFG



Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 343
Location: Exmouth, Devon, UK

PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 23:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up! Just what I needed as I have mine to do.

Only extra steps I'm gonna take is to run Holts Rad flush through then drain system and then flush for 15-20 mins with water hose and will probably replace thermastat.
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one - stickied it.  :D
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PinkPig
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 13:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lewis
Can you correct the spelling of radiator in the post title otherwise it won't show up in search. My bad!
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The PINK PIG!
1988 Delica L300 Star Wagon 2.5TD 5sp Manual.
A never ending camper/restoration project
Project 1 - Pop-top camper conversion 2011-2015
Project 2 - Campervan the sequel - 2016 restoration, welding, respray, new interior, vertical pop...
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Lewis
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 15:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

What spelling ?  Laughing

You won't need to search for it, as it is now a sticky it will always be near the top of the forum for others to find.  Wink
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ciaran15



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 10:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great stuff man good job
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BarefootBennett



Joined: 01 Sep 2015
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Location: Barnsley

PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

So is there a current best replacement for the radiator as the one I have I at the moment looks like it needs replacing and I might as well put the best I can back in while it's getting done. Not sure if I read somewhere about the L200 pick ups being a good un?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 18:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

If yours has the auto box, you will need the auto radiator, which has 2 small pipes coming out the bottom as it also cools the atf. Dunno about L200 rad, I would be surprised if it fits.
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BarefootBennett



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 13:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

So just a standard rad is sufficient, no recommended upgrades ?
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andyman



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 18:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is the original, all metal, - copper? More durable and repairable than plastic/aluminium, but undoubtedly the more expensive construction.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 18:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS Why do you think yours needs replacing?
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BarefootBennett



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 19:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might not do, my mate mentioned that "it's a bit sorry looking and full o shit" so I thought if there was a good upgrade that wasn't too expensive I'd stick one in. Otherwise it will just be taken off n cleaned out.
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andyman



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 19:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it didn't boil over, burst or lose a worrying amount of coolant on your 70mph dash home, I don't reckon there's much wrong with it that an internal flushing and an external brushing won't solve! You can afford to lose 10% of your cooling fins through disintegration, as long as the cooling tubes aren't compromised. Plastic ages and goes brittle, the pipe spigots can snap off, not a problem with copper, although it can corrode, but it can be soldered.
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jo0lz



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 23:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

THe original rads come with puny sized pipes in the core
and so clog really easy
Also auto's have the ATF cooling pipes running through the bottom tank on the rad
SO when I replaced mine I gone the original rad recored
using the existing top and bottom tanks
and as FAT a new core as the guy could get to fit the original tanks
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