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Front heater pipes...

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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 16:11    Post subject: Front heater pipes... Reply with quote

...are doing my head in!
I've just replaced the glow plugs, as recently starting was a fluffy, spluttering affair. While in there with the intercooler out of the way, I wanted to have a go at flushing the heater core.
Do you think I could move the pipes?  Crying or Very sad
Now waiting for the loan of some pipe hooks to have another go!

On a lighter note, (the glow plugs work btw...) the drivers door remote locking has fixed itself!  :D

Ian
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skiorsail



Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 758
Location: Cumbria

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 20:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be gentle with the plastic vent , if your cooling system is rusty it might be easier to use a system cleaner and then flush before adding five litres of antifreeze concentrate and topping up with deionised water.
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 23:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've tried various flushes, they didn't do the job unfortunately.
If I can just get the hoses off, I've got a couple of pieces of PVC pipe cut and ready to administer some excellent mains hose pressure!  Twisted Evil

Oh, and some CLR just in case  Razz
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skiorsail



Joined: 31 Aug 2004
Posts: 758
Location: Cumbria

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 14:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

I presume you are trying to improve heating, and have been through the obvious like thermostat,kinked or squashed pipes, the steel pipe fitting that screws into the engine  is worth drlling out if corroded as I think it's the narrowest point , one of mine even got an uprated water pump and even an engine preheater, fitting that to the pipes in that area was fun Rolling Eyes
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Delica chamonix PE8W 96.love at first sight.
Delica jasper PE8W 96 -green outside yellow inside - prev owner died smoke inhalation ?
plus Deli chamonix 2-at the price of a few months fuel who can resist. Plus toyota celica.
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 17:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted a new rad, water pump and thermostat a few years ago, got a new Y-pipe with the new cylinder head a couple of years ago, I think all the pipes are in okay-ish condition...  Rolling Eyes
The rear heater works fine  Laughing
What side is the steel pipe you mention and what is a uprated water pump?

Is it worth just lobbing a litre of CLR in for a couple of days?
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 19:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting no further with this, however, my son thinks that there is a pollen filter.
It would be located in the evaporator case and it's this that is giving me the problem.
I've looked at the manual and can see no sign or mention of a pollen filter.

Over to you  Laughing

What does the Delica collective think?
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 5601
Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 19:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your bleed valve let water out? And are all your diverter flap servo motors working correctly? There have been several threads on similar front heater problems.
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Lewis
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Joined: 25 May 2006
Posts: 16291
Location: Huddersfield

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 20:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

paintpot wrote:
..  my son thinks that there is a pollen filter.


Definitely isn't one fitted at the assembly line.  Smile
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 20:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy - Yes, the bleed valve lets coolant out. I have the manual heater controls, the air diverters (screen, face, feet) work okay, the airflow seems to change when sliding the heat control from cold to hot and back.
Just get no heat  :?
Is there another electric doohickey under there I need to look at?
Yes, there are lots of threads to do with heater problems, they seem to peter out without any definitive answers. I suppose people fix their faults, carry on and live with it or flog them on  Rolling Eyes

Thanks Lewis
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buzr6mille
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Joined: 11 Jul 2009
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Location: Wherever i park up.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 22:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mr Paintpot,  have you flushed the system out, I was thinking it could maybe be a blocked heater matrix dontknow
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 22:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Buzz, yes I flushed the heater core but not the whole system.
It looked like it flowed okay with the hosepipe, filled it with some ZEP and left it for a couple of hours. Flushed again both ways, back together and nothing!  Crying or Very sad
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 23:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any crud left in the system, especially rust flakes, will quickly block up a matrix. Did you get a lot of muck out of it when you flushed it, and did the ZEP come out  clean or muddy?  Run the engine with the flushing agent in it up to full working temperature and both heaters on for half an hour, making sure you bleed it thoroughly, then let it cool for half an hour, then start and run it for 5 mins to make sure all the dissolved crud is suspended in solution before draining it totally, finally flushing again with a hosepipe.  BTW, did you take out the heater matrix to flush it?
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
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Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy - here goes... firstly, car vomit came out of the heater core when I started flushing!  Crying or Very sad  Flow was good both ways with a hosepipe.
While it was all apart (with the PVC pipes still attached) I thought it would be a good idea to put some ZEP (calcium, lime & rust remover) into the heater core. I was able to blow and suck it back and forth, then left it to soak for a couple of hours.
I then topped it up with hot water from the kettle. Again, blew and sucked ti back and forth and left in for another couple of hours.
The ZEP came out clean when flushing for the last time, again back and forth to make sure. I blew out as much water as I could before filling with coolant and connected everything back up.

This was all done in situ and there was negligible heat from the vents after all this. Mad

This is why I think there might be something stuck in the air blender box.
I've been for a 30 mile round trip today, so everything's fully up to temp. Had a little twiddle of the bleed valve when I got home with the engine still running. Coolant came out clear, no froth, no bubbles!
To top it all off, the fan stopped working! Mad
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 20:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the main flap in your blender box is not operating, it could be stuck in the closed position, not allowing air to pass through the matrix and out of the vents. This is the most logical possibility if your matrix is clear. Don't you have to remove the blender to get at the matrix? If you haven't been able to flush the heater pipes as thoroughly, and your system has produced loads of carp, Wink  there could well be blockage in there. I recently worked out that my upstairs radiators wouldn't bleed and fill because of a blockage. It was where the header tank fed into the system as a tee into the main boiler return pipe. 15mm pipe, clogged with scaly rust and sludge from the second hand solid fuel boiler I had added to the system a couple of years ago. Fortunately, it was easily roddable with a piece of wire.

PS for Lewis. I am describing my domestic central heating system, not a steam-powered conversion on my L300!
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 13:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyman wrote:
If the main flap in your blender box is not operating, it could be stuck in the closed position!


Any ideas on how I'd fix this?
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
Posts: 135
Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 14:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news! The fan is going again!

Just wanted taking out and fiddling with, again  Rolling Eyes

I've got the centre dash panel off, I can see that the hot/cold control cable is connected properly and appears to move the wotsit that it's connected to.
Looking underneath the heater box, there's a threaded spigot that I can see turning, I just don't know if it's turning enough!  Crying or Very sad

What now?  :?
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andyman



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Location: Penrith

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 20:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as the flap inside is rotating with it, and there is very little play in the lever before it starts moving,  I can't see  that there is much wrong with it. I assume now your fan is working again, you can get as much cold air as you like out of any vent? And you are still getting plenty of heat in the back? NB I know nothing about L400s and their peculiarities except what I have read on here, but I have 40 + years experience of fixing cars etc.
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
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Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 22:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, all that  Sad
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andyman



Joined: 08 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I am stumped!
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paintpot



Joined: 24 Jul 2010
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Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

...little update, took Silver in to a 4X4 specialist not too far away who seemed to know what I was talking about.
He confirmed that the air flap was not broken or seized, but that the matrix was partially blocked.  Crying or Very sad
After flushing both ways (same as what I did!  :?   ), some heat came... So, a partial success and a little easier to cope in this cooler weather.

When I've got time, I'll try the CLR again for longer this time, and the a good flush of the whole system and more new coolant.

If this doesn't work, it's looking like a new heater core. Crying or Very sad

Oh, and got my new starter motor fitted as well. Took him less than an hour!  8-)
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