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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 16:11 Post subject: Front heater pipes... |
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...are doing my head in!
I've just replaced the glow plugs, as recently starting was a fluffy, spluttering affair. While in there with the intercooler out of the way, I wanted to have a go at flushing the heater core.
Do you think I could move the pipes?
Now waiting for the loan of some pipe hooks to have another go!
On a lighter note, (the glow plugs work btw...) the drivers door remote locking has fixed itself! :D
Ian |
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 16:11 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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skiorsail
Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 758 Location: Cumbria
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 20:50 Post subject: |
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Be gentle with the plastic vent , if your cooling system is rusty it might be easier to use a system cleaner and then flush before adding five litres of antifreeze concentrate and topping up with deionised water. _________________ Delica chamonix PE8W 96.love at first sight.
Delica jasper PE8W 96 -green outside yellow inside - prev owner died smoke inhalation ?
plus Deli chamonix 2-at the price of a few months fuel who can resist. Plus toyota celica. |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 23:57 Post subject: |
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I've tried various flushes, they didn't do the job unfortunately.
If I can just get the hoses off, I've got a couple of pieces of PVC pipe cut and ready to administer some excellent mains hose pressure!
Oh, and some CLR just in case |
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skiorsail
Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 758 Location: Cumbria
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 14:06 Post subject: |
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I presume you are trying to improve heating, and have been through the obvious like thermostat,kinked or squashed pipes, the steel pipe fitting that screws into the engine is worth drlling out if corroded as I think it's the narrowest point , one of mine even got an uprated water pump and even an engine preheater, fitting that to the pipes in that area was fun _________________ Delica chamonix PE8W 96.love at first sight.
Delica jasper PE8W 96 -green outside yellow inside - prev owner died smoke inhalation ?
plus Deli chamonix 2-at the price of a few months fuel who can resist. Plus toyota celica. |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 17:24 Post subject: |
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I fitted a new rad, water pump and thermostat a few years ago, got a new Y-pipe with the new cylinder head a couple of years ago, I think all the pipes are in okay-ish condition...
The rear heater works fine
What side is the steel pipe you mention and what is a uprated water pump?
Is it worth just lobbing a litre of CLR in for a couple of days? |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 19:33 Post subject: |
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I'm getting no further with this, however, my son thinks that there is a pollen filter.
It would be located in the evaporator case and it's this that is giving me the problem.
I've looked at the manual and can see no sign or mention of a pollen filter.
Over to you
What does the Delica collective think? |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5601 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 19:52 Post subject: |
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Does your bleed valve let water out? And are all your diverter flap servo motors working correctly? There have been several threads on similar front heater problems. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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Lewis Site Admin
Joined: 25 May 2006 Posts: 16291 Location: Huddersfield
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 20:18 Post subject: |
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paintpot wrote: |
.. my son thinks that there is a pollen filter. |
Definitely isn't one fitted at the assembly line. _________________
Copyright is retained for all my photos. Please don't copy them without asking permission
Do not blindly go where the path may lead you. Go where there is no path and leave a trail that others may follow!
ルイス |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 20:42 Post subject: |
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Andy - Yes, the bleed valve lets coolant out. I have the manual heater controls, the air diverters (screen, face, feet) work okay, the airflow seems to change when sliding the heat control from cold to hot and back.
Just get no heat :?
Is there another electric doohickey under there I need to look at?
Yes, there are lots of threads to do with heater problems, they seem to peter out without any definitive answers. I suppose people fix their faults, carry on and live with it or flog them on
Thanks Lewis |
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buzr6mille Lifetime member
Joined: 11 Jul 2009 Posts: 6879 Location: Wherever i park up.
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 22:12 Post subject: |
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Hi Mr Paintpot, have you flushed the system out, I was thinking it could maybe be a blocked heater matrix _________________ 2nd gear low and go go go!
It's A Shame That Stupidity Isn't Painful..
One dent at a time... |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 22:41 Post subject: |
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Hi Buzz, yes I flushed the heater core but not the whole system.
It looked like it flowed okay with the hosepipe, filled it with some ZEP and left it for a couple of hours. Flushed again both ways, back together and nothing! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5601 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 23:59 Post subject: |
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Any crud left in the system, especially rust flakes, will quickly block up a matrix. Did you get a lot of muck out of it when you flushed it, and did the ZEP come out clean or muddy? Run the engine with the flushing agent in it up to full working temperature and both heaters on for half an hour, making sure you bleed it thoroughly, then let it cool for half an hour, then start and run it for 5 mins to make sure all the dissolved crud is suspended in solution before draining it totally, finally flushing again with a hosepipe. BTW, did you take out the heater matrix to flush it? _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 18:36 Post subject: |
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Andy - here goes... firstly, car vomit came out of the heater core when I started flushing! Flow was good both ways with a hosepipe.
While it was all apart (with the PVC pipes still attached) I thought it would be a good idea to put some ZEP (calcium, lime & rust remover) into the heater core. I was able to blow and suck it back and forth, then left it to soak for a couple of hours.
I then topped it up with hot water from the kettle. Again, blew and sucked ti back and forth and left in for another couple of hours.
The ZEP came out clean when flushing for the last time, again back and forth to make sure. I blew out as much water as I could before filling with coolant and connected everything back up.
This was all done in situ and there was negligible heat from the vents after all this.
This is why I think there might be something stuck in the air blender box.
I've been for a 30 mile round trip today, so everything's fully up to temp. Had a little twiddle of the bleed valve when I got home with the engine still running. Coolant came out clear, no froth, no bubbles!
To top it all off, the fan stopped working! |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5601 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 20:12 Post subject: |
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If the main flap in your blender box is not operating, it could be stuck in the closed position, not allowing air to pass through the matrix and out of the vents. This is the most logical possibility if your matrix is clear. Don't you have to remove the blender to get at the matrix? If you haven't been able to flush the heater pipes as thoroughly, and your system has produced loads of carp, there could well be blockage in there. I recently worked out that my upstairs radiators wouldn't bleed and fill because of a blockage. It was where the header tank fed into the system as a tee into the main boiler return pipe. 15mm pipe, clogged with scaly rust and sludge from the second hand solid fuel boiler I had added to the system a couple of years ago. Fortunately, it was easily roddable with a piece of wire.
PS for Lewis. I am describing my domestic central heating system, not a steam-powered conversion on my L300! _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 13:07 Post subject: |
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andyman wrote: |
If the main flap in your blender box is not operating, it could be stuck in the closed position! |
Any ideas on how I'd fix this? |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 14:10 Post subject: |
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Good news! The fan is going again!
Just wanted taking out and fiddling with, again
I've got the centre dash panel off, I can see that the hot/cold control cable is connected properly and appears to move the wotsit that it's connected to.
Looking underneath the heater box, there's a threaded spigot that I can see turning, I just don't know if it's turning enough!
What now? :? |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5601 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 20:03 Post subject: |
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As long as the flap inside is rotating with it, and there is very little play in the lever before it starts moving, I can't see that there is much wrong with it. I assume now your fan is working again, you can get as much cold air as you like out of any vent? And you are still getting plenty of heat in the back? NB I know nothing about L400s and their peculiarities except what I have read on here, but I have 40 + years experience of fixing cars etc. _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 22:22 Post subject: |
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Yep, all that |
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andyman
Joined: 08 Dec 2012 Posts: 5601 Location: Penrith
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 23:26 Post subject: |
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Well I am stumped! _________________ Andy C L300 Super Exceed - over 100 smiles per gallon! |
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paintpot
Joined: 24 Jul 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Stevenage, Hertfordshire
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:47 Post subject: |
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...little update, took Silver in to a 4X4 specialist not too far away who seemed to know what I was talking about.
He confirmed that the air flap was not broken or seized, but that the matrix was partially blocked.
After flushing both ways (same as what I did! :? ), some heat came... So, a partial success and a little easier to cope in this cooler weather.
When I've got time, I'll try the CLR again for longer this time, and the a good flush of the whole system and more new coolant.
If this doesn't work, it's looking like a new heater core.
Oh, and got my new starter motor fitted as well. Took him less than an hour! 8-) |
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